Simple M/C swap suggestions?

[TwistedKestrel]

So I've had this GS for a while, and it has turned out to be a better bike than I was expecting. At the very least, mine (2005) has a very good stock seat. However, the front brake is kinda bad in the dry and absolutely horrifying in the wet. I dunno if I would bother swapping the front end or anything to get dual discs, but I wonder if people have a drop-in replacement suggestion for the master cylinder? And for people that have mounted a 4 piston caliper, what M/C are they using?

[gsJack]

Brake real bad in the wet check front wheel bearings for looseness, wobble.

[burning1]

What do you man by 'bad?'

Huge improvements on my race GS:

1. Stainless brake lines.
2. Latest caliper (if you don't have it. SV650 right caliper also works.)
3. High-temp brake fluid
4. EBC EPFA (extreme-pro) pads. Way more expensive than conventional pads, but absolutely worth it, and they last forever.
5. Rebuild the caliper.

I kept the stock M/C.

You can also throw a Galfer waive rotor on there, but I would probably wait till the stocker is due for a replacement.

[jdoorn14]

Stainless steel front brake line is an instant improvement over stock. Night and day difference.


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[TwistedKestrel]

Really, nobody out there has done an M/C swap? Guess I better see what the SV650 folks do.

What do you man by 'bad?'

Huge improvements on my race GS:

1. Stainless brake lines.
2. Latest caliper (if you don't have it. SV650 right caliper also works.)
3. High-temp brake fluid
4. EBC EPFA (extreme-pro) pads. Way more expensive than conventional pads, but absolutely worth it, and they last forever.
5. Rebuild the caliper.

I kept the stock M/C.

You can also throw a Galfer waive rotor on there, but I would probably wait till the stocker is due for a replacement.

-By bad I mean when it's raining, grabbing a handful of front brake does absolutely nothing for a second or two. I fully expect the rotor needing to shed water, but I've never had a bike that took so long for the rotor to clean (and that was at highway speeds). Note that I am chalking this up to general badness (possibly crummy or contaminated pads) as opposed to having anything to do with the M/C

-EBC makes an EPFA pad that fits a sliding pin caliper? I had EPFA pads on a ZX11 and liked them. You sure you're not just talking about an FA pad? ... wow, you're right, there's a part number for them. Huh!

[jdoorn14]

Really, nobody out there has done an M/C swap? Guess I better see what the SV650 folks do.

What do you man by 'bad?'

Huge improvements on my race GS:

1. Stainless brake lines.
2. Latest caliper (if you don't have it. SV650 right caliper also works.)
3. High-temp brake fluid
4. EBC EPFA (extreme-pro) pads. Way more expensive than conventional pads, but absolutely worth it, and they last forever.
5. Rebuild the caliper.

I kept the stock M/C.

You can also throw a Galfer waive rotor on there, but I would probably wait till the stocker is due for a replacement.

-By bad I mean when it's raining, grabbing a handful of front brake does absolutely nothing for a second or two. I fully expect the rotor needing to shed water, but I've never had a bike that took so long for the rotor to clean (and that was at highway speeds). Note that I am chalking this up to general badness (possibly crummy or contaminated pads) as opposed to having anything to do with the M/C

-EBC makes an EPFA pad that fits a sliding pin caliper? I had EPFA pads on a ZX11 and liked them. You sure you're not just talking about an FA pad? ... wow, you're right, there's a part number for them. Huh!

If only there was a way to find other threads and posts that have the same question......

Here you go. The results of a 10 second search for "master cylinder".....http://www.gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=67225.msg809396#msg809396


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[gsJack]

...............................By bad I mean when it's raining, grabbing a handful of front brake does absolutely nothing for a second or two. I fully expect the rotor needing to shed water, but I've never had a bike that took so long for the rotor to clean (and that was at highway speeds).................................

Did you check those wheel bearings yet?  Had the exact same thing and it was a worn wheel bearing causing it.  A little side play in the wheel and the pads didn't ride the rotor properly, had to hold them against the rotor for a second or two before it was wiped dry and griped.  A second or two is a long time when you need brakes now!  A new pair of bearings and my front brake was good as new again with same caliper and pads although I since have replaced worn out front and rear calipers with like new ebay ones at 100k miles on my 02.

[TwistedKestrel]

If only there was a way to find other threads and posts that have the same question......

Here you go. The results of a 10 second search for "master cylinder".....http://www.gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=67225.msg809396#msg809396


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While that thread is technically relevant, it has little information and zero examples of donor M/C candidates. It is also literally the only search result for "master cylinder" on this forum

[TwistedKestrel]

Did you check those wheel bearings yet?  Had the exact same thing and it was a worn wheel bearing causing it.  A little side play in the wheel and the pads didn't ride the rotor properly, had to hold them against the rotor for a second or two before it was wiped dry and griped.  A second or two is a long time when you need brakes now!  A new pair of bearings and my front brake was good as new again with same caliper and pads although I since have replaced worn out front and rear calipers with like new ebay ones at 100k miles on my 02.

Good point - I tend to think of wheel bearing failure as vibration or squeaking, but a technically functioning wheel bearing with sideplay could still be trouble. Will verify, easy check

[Big Rich]

Really, you could use any MC that has the same piston diameter (I think it's cast into the MC on the bottom?).

As far as braking in the rain, I'd suggest going over the entire system. IIRC, Suzuki suggests changing the stock rubber brake hose every 2 (?) years, and I have yet to meet somebody that adheres to that. Braided hose is a great option. New fluid is a must, along with good pads. Check your wheel bearings (as stated earlier), and make sure your front axle nut is tight (loose axle nut = wheel can move in the forks and push the brake piston). What else..... I'm assuming your rotor is still an acceptable width and isn't warped, and doesn't have a flat spot?

[jdoorn14]

If only there was a way to find other threads and posts that have the same question......

Here you go. The results of a 10 second search for "master cylinder".....http://www.gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=67225.msg809396#msg809396


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While that thread is technically relevant, it has little information and zero examples of donor M/C candidates. It is also literally the only search result for "master cylinder" on this forum

If no currently or formerly active member documented a master cylinder swap, there won't be any record of which "donor candidates" might be viable. You may have to do your own research, measurements, and testing on this one.

Also, I'm not sure how you're searching, but I get 26 pages of search results.


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[TwistedKestrel]

If no currently or formerly active member documented a master cylinder swap, there won't be any record of which "donor candidates" might be viable. You may have to do your own research, measurements, and testing on this one.

Also, I'm not sure how you're searching, but I get 26 pages of search results.

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Turns out the search box here will only search the thread you're in if you have one open

[Wagoneer]

Sounds like your pads are glazed over.