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2005 Mix spraying out back side of carb and snapping the slides + Video

Started by slug, August 23, 2014, 03:31:53 PM

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slug

When at idle the bike till make a sound like it is backfiring but i believe it is the plastic slides that control air flow from the air box are slamming down creating a snap noise. The bike runs great besides this and it only happens at idle or returning to idle. I took the air box off and you can see some mix spraying out of either the left or right side, but not both at the same time.

Carbs are new from a 2009 gs (only had 3k miles on it)

My friend and i have done a bunch of work on this bike when there was a hanging idle - here is a thread
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=67710.0

Here is a video of what is happening
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyzU1HxL1sU

any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

JAS6377

I'd probably start with float height and inspecting the diaphragms.
Blue 2004F with some fun stuff
Lunchbox, 22.5/65/147.5, Jardine, 17/39, R6 throttle, R6 shock, .85 springs, GSXR1100 rearsets, Clubmans+Rox 2" risers, T-Rex sliders, flush mount fronts, integrated LED tail, integrated LED fronts, HID Projector, blue gauge LEDs, 12V outlet

And 96.5% more wub wub

slug

I just threw on new (3k mile) carbs on and this same thing happened with the old carbs, the new ones looked in great shape before i threw them on so i don't think its the float/diaphrams

Alan_nc

Lets back up a bit.

Why did you put new carbs on the bike?

It would seem that the problem isn't the carbs as you have the same problem.

Have you set the valves lately?  Almost sounds like a valve isn't closing and when the piston comes up it is pushing air back through the carb.

slug

It all started when my left cyl stopped firing and it had a very high sticking idle about a month and a half ago

My friend and i replaced valve shims to correct spec, swapped coils, lightly honed cylinders , replaced exhaust valves (and seals),  seals between crank case - cylinders - head - valve cover, oil and filter. Measured and replaced shims again. And ofcorse (using propane) checked all over for air leaks.

We got the left side to start firing again but tried everything to fix this high sticking idle. the bike would make this click noise when idling low, but this rarly happened as it liked to climb and hang at ~4k rpm. I gave up about a week ago after no luck for a few weeks and just bought some carbs from 2009 that had 3k miles on them thinking "carbs are usually the issue" the bike now doesnt idle high but this means that "back pressure" happens alot more as it only seems to happen at 1-2k rpm

prmas

Is it possible that the inlet cam is 1 tooth out? You say that it idles well but it does not sound like it to me. Mine is much smoother and very even at idle unlike yours. My first step would be to recheck the cam timing. 

Macka

bombsquad83

Quote from: prmas on August 25, 2014, 12:51:56 AM
Is it possible that the inlet cam is 1 tooth out? You say that it idles well but it does not sound like it to me. Mine is much smoother and very even at idle unlike yours. My first step would be to recheck the cam timing. 

Macka

Definitely check this.  Also check for a sticking bucket on one of the intake valves.  The bucket should easily spin while the cam is not pushing it down (same position you would check clearance in).

slug

Some else i just talked to said this could be the problem. I will open it up today, i swear i double checked it tho.

slug

Ok so i opened the top up today and this is what i found.

You can't tell in the photo but the 1 is pointing forward. And there are 100% 18 chain pins from the 2 arrow and 3 arrow on the inlet cam.

The thing that seems off is the pick up i watched a video and they say that you should line up the RT mark on the pick up when the 1 arrow is pointing forward but i don't think mine is. can anyone tell if this is off? Should the pick up line up with the 2 hashes after the RT? it wasn't very specific. This photo is with the 1 arrow pointing forward and the cam notches facing each other.


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slug

Quote from: bombsquad83 on August 25, 2014, 06:40:41 AM

Definitely check this.  Also check for a sticking bucket on one of the intake valves.  The bucket should easily spin while the cam is not pushing it down (same position you would check clearance in).

Buckets spin easily

gsJack

The R-T mark is the line closest to the R-T letters with the #1 arrow pointed at the heads top finish so your off a bit.  Pin 1 lines up with arrow 2 and pin 18 lines up with arrow 3 as shown in this diagram.  I put this together from diagrams in the shop manual:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/gs500signalgenerators_zps2134172a.jpg
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

bombsquad83

Quote from: gsJack on August 26, 2014, 01:14:20 PM
The R-T mark is the line closest to the R-T letters with the #1 arrow pointed at the heads top finish so your off a bit.  Pin 1 lines up with arrow 2 and pin 18 lines up with arrow 3 as shown in this diagram.  I put this together from diagrams in the shop manual:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/gs500signalgenerators_zps2134172a.jpg

There's your problem!

slug

Running so much better! During warm up it still sputters sometimes but after about 1-2 mins of running everything seems great

Thanks for the help guys!

bombsquad83

Quote from: slug on August 27, 2014, 09:39:40 AM
Running so much better! During warm up it still sputters sometimes but after about 1-2 mins of running everything seems great

Thanks for the help guys!

So was it off by one tooth on both cams?

slug



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