FNG

[PiotrTheGreat]

Thank God this community exists

So, I'm new to motorcycles and new to wrenching, and I'm especially new to GS500s and their...quirks

As such, I'm hoping some of you fine folks might be able to offer a little help

NOTE: This will be updated with a video of my current engine and the various noises it creates, since I could use some help diagnosing stuff

That said, a couple facts:

I live in Chicago, and I ride rain or shine (for the most part). Temperature here varies relatively wildly, and I do everything from short trips to work to long trips at sustained RPM for pleasure.

Now, what I would appreciate some help with is some suggestions

First off: What should I upgrade?

The GS Twin I have is an '05 GS500F with just over 10K miles on it. She's getting new tires and could use a service, along with new pads. So, my first question is: While I'm doing a service, what should I be on the lookout for? Please note that I've never taken a wrench to any kind of engine in my life (and yes: I've ordered the Haynes manual)

In addition: What upgrades do you think I should make right off the bat to make the bike run better? I'm 6' 5" and 270 lbs, and I heard that progressive springs would be a great option in terms of mods. I've also heard that braided brake line is a great mod, and looking through the wiki I made note of something regarding changing certain fasteners to socket-types. But is there anything else I should look at improving immediately? Especially with the bike being so old and having so little done?

Anywho, that's all I've got for now. I'll update this as needed, but for the time being I thank you for your time and patience, and look forward to your advice

[Big Rich]

I'd skip the Progressive springs and go with Sonic Springs. The owner is a member here and you can order the springs for your weight and riding style. Progressive springs are just bike specific last time iI checked.

[EdChen]

Agreed - straight rate springs are probably a better bet than the progressive springs. I wouldn't plan to do too much for performance, get all the maintenance items done and just ride the bike. A front fork brace isn't a bad upgrade too. After you upt the new tires one, make sure to adjust the chain just right, plus keep the chain clean.

If you're taking the tank off, a valve adjustment is a good idea.

Oh, where in the city are you? I could try give you a hand some time!

[PiotrTheGreat]

Oh, where in the city are you? I could try give you a hand some time!

I'm right in the Avondale area, but with baby, I can be out most places within an hour (note: She runs fine, she just makes noises and could probably use some replacement bobs and bits and some TLC)

EDIT: Just got back from what was supposed to be a relaxing ride. Babe wouldn't turn over on me and the battery clicked every time I tried to start her. So, until further notice, I'd need you to come to me, if you'd be up for that xD

[jaynavajo15]

Battery clicking means dead battery. Get a new one and also a charger. Both together should be under a hundred bucks. I would recommend a R6 rear shock even before the fork springs.

[EdChen]

Cool, not far, I'm in Logan Square.

If you have a multimeter handy, I would check the voltage of the battery. I'm going on 9 years on the Walmart AGM battery, I've had some slow starts lately, so I put a battery tender on her once a month over a weekend and haven't had any more slow starts.

[PiotrTheGreat]

Battery clicking means dead battery. Get a new one and also a charger. Both together should be under a hundred bucks. I would recommend a R6 rear shock even before the fork springs.

See, I see what you're saying...but I rode her home just fine today xD

So, I'm thinking it might be a loose connection now

[RedMark]

See, I see what you're saying...but I rode her home just fine today xD

So, I'm thinking it might be a loose connection now

Had the same kind of problem with a battery just a couple of weeks ago. Bought a new one and you can tell the difference right away. Even the instrument lights are brighter.

My old battery would run fine most of the time, but every now and again it would just lose pretty much all spark and you just about had to drown the engine with the throttle to maintain speed.

[PiotrTheGreat]

Well, thanks for the help with the battery, guys

I did some testing and checking, but not having a multi meter or amp/volt meter, I couldn't do anything precise, so I'mma take her up to a shop and have them check the whole electrical system just in case

In the meanwhile, I'm hoping you could help me with another matter: BRAKES

Specifically, brake pads. I need to change the ones I have on there, and I know there's a thread about it somewhere in the forum, but I was hoping for a little more clarification with the designations (GG rated and HH rated and all that). What would you guys recommend on a bone-stock GS that isn't just replacement pads from Suzuki?

In addition, a question about brake fluid: Should I stick with DOT4 or bump up to 5.1?

[Atesz792]

5.1 is compatible, cheap, and better. I use & recommend it.
Now about brake pads, GG HH and the like are standardized friction ratings. HH is higher, means more stopping power and is recommended for front brakes. Many here use EBC EPFA pads for increased performance.
For the back, FF will suffice.
Never buy cheap crap that has anything to do with braking, your life depends on it.

[The Buddha]

Dot5 is the best brake fluid you can buy. Its silicone based, synthetic and will not take in water, it also is a cool blue color. You can use a little and save the rest of the bottle for years.
However you need to suck all the 4 out of the system. I actually follow it with a little acetone to clean off the 4 residue. You sorta have to put acetone on a rag and clean the reservoir. Then put in a bit of acetone and vacuum pump through to the caliper. You should not pump the brakes with acetone in it. Acetone is a cleaner and dryer. The brakes also need lube.
Then you basically put dot 5 in the reservoir and suck it to the caliper. You can pump and bleed and this or that now, not a problem.
Cool.
Buddha.

[PiotrTheGreat]

Dot5 is the best brake fluid you can buy. Its silicone based, synthetic and will not take in water, it also is a cool blue color. You can use a little and save the rest of the bottle for years.
However you need to suck all the 4 out of the system. I actually follow it with a little acetone to clean off the 4 residue. You sorta have to put acetone on a rag and clean the reservoir. Then put in a bit of acetone and vacuum pump through to the caliper. You should not pump the brakes with acetone in it. Acetone is a cleaner and dryer. The brakes also need lube.
Then you basically put dot 5 in the reservoir and suck it to the caliper. You can pump and bleed and this or that now, not a problem.
Cool.
Buddha.

So, if I go DOT5, DON'T pump the brakes like doing a fluid change. Alright

What's been your experience with it, though? I keep hearing people say that they get a spoungy feeling from their brakes using DOT5

[EdChen]

I know that DOT 3, 4, 5.1 have increasingly higher boil points, but I read that the trade off is that DOT 5.1 more readily absorbs water than DOT 4, which absorbs more readily than DOT 3.  I believe more European cars specify DOT 4, but with shorter flush intervals while in the US, many vehicles still still spec DOT 3, but with longer replacement intervals. I believe the same is true for DOT 5.1 vs DOT 4.

I would personally stick with DOT 4. I have no experience with DOT 5 fluid though. I heard that people put it in vintage cars that sit around a lot, but also that it can be a little spongier like you mentioned.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-fluid

[W201028]

I too have not yet run dot 5. I use 4 in everything, and for the amount our bikes hold, one bottle will last awhile. Just go with a good name brand, not some super-stopper brand from the quik-e-mart on the corner.
As far as pads, I have always been partial to ebc, they are either american or british made and have always provided me with a long life and great stopping power. I think the sintered metal provide more power, but I just put organics on my triumph and while they have a little more on-off feel, but dont squeal or throw a lot of dust.