Chain that won't stretch

[cpaiin]

I recently replaced my chain and sprockets at the end of 2014 and am already seeing a lot of stretching.  I decreased my front sprocket to 14 teeth for quicker off-the-line accel.  I kept the rear sprocket at the standard 39 teeth.  I also bought a D.I.D. chain after hearing they seem to be decent quality.  I went with the standard roller chain which doesn't have O or X rings (the high prices got to me).

Here are the links to what I have:
Front Sprocket: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/7787/i/jt-520-front-countershaft-sprocket
Rear Sprocket: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/7704/pr/JT-520-Steel-Rear-Sprocket
Chain: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/5553/i/did-520-standard-roller-chain

I've ridden ~400 miles so far and lube the chain after every ~110 miles with DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver. 
My rides are usually between home and school (~100 miles) and it's on the I-5 between San Diego and Los Angeles so I hardly travel below 75mph, high end at 90mph and an average speed between the two, and that is just to keep up with the flow of traffic.  I'm also ~220 lb so my girl doesn't have the easiest of jobs. 
I have already tightened the chain once and it has since gone from about 1" of play to about 2.5 inches.  Reading up on some other posts, I now realize I should have started closer to 1.5 inches.
Has anybody else had similar experiences?  I didn't read every single review of the D.I.D. chain earlier, but now that I have, some people have had bad experiences.  Yet those were on a 650cc duel sport which is much torqier.

What I guess I'm really asking is, do any of you have suggestions for a high quality, strong chain that will last?  I'll have to ignore my cheap heart and go for something that I'm not afraid of snapping on the highway.

Thanks for reading my book of a question.

[fetor56]

Not a good idea to skimp on something that can potentually take your life,particularly at those speeds.
Now i'v gotten off my very very high horse  that amount of stretch seems a little excessive;chains do stretch a small amount initially......keep a check on it.
20-30mm play(at the tightest point) is what the book recommends.
I have also found a Scottoiler & Laser chain aligner to be great chain tools.

[Janx101]

DID are usually pretty good... sure it's chain stretch?.. not bolt tightness letting the wheel sneak forward again?

[twocool]

Yep...I agree with Janx...sometimes, after you put on a new chain...things "settle"...it's not chain stretch...it just settles...requires one adjustment real soon....once you do that it should stay for quite a long time...

You can determine whether it was actual chain stretch, by measuring the length of say 10 links...or better, twenty...and see if that measures more than "the new" spec...

If the chain length per link is still "tight" then you know something slipped or settled.

Do you check chain slack with the bike on the side stand? 

If you set the chain slack with the bike on the center stand...you made the chain way too tight...and if you rode on it, you certainly overstressed everything!

DID is a quality chain...should not have this problem...I use x ring however....more $$$ but quality...

Is there any chance this was a "knock off" counterfeit chain???


Cookie

DID are usually pretty good... sure it's chain stretch?.. not bolt tightness letting the wheel sneak forward again?

[twocool]

 See guide below from "Renthal"

Measuring 16 links should give 10"....

If it measures more than 10.2"  ...you chain is "stretched" too much...(this is for non o ring chains)


Cookie




During use a chain will stretch (i.e. the pins will wear causing extension of the chain). To measure how much a chain has stretched, put the motorcycle in gear and rotate the rear wheel to tension the top strand of the chain. Measure accurately (ideally with a vernier) 16 links, counting both roller and pin links. If the length of the measured 16 links is greater than the maximum acceptable length given in the table below then the chain should no longer be used. These figures assume a 2% maximum allowable extension for non 'O'-ring chain and a 1% maximum extension for 'O'-ring chain.

Maximum Acceptable Lengths - 520 chains

Original Chain Pitch - 5/8" / 15.875mm

Non 'O'-ring chain - 10.2" / 259.0mm

'O'-ring chain - 10.1" / 256.5mm

Using a chain which has been stretched more than the above maximum allowance causes the chain to ride up the teeth of the sprocket. This causes damage to the tips of the chainwheels teeth, as the force transmitted by the chain is transmitted entirely through the top of the tooth, rather than the whole tooth. This results in severe wearing of the chainwheel.

[cpaiin]

Thanks for replies.
Janx101 and twocool, I think you guys are right.  The chain measures 10" dead on.  What would you recommend I do, add some locktight or add another nut or ... ?
On a semi-related note, the alignment to get my chain straight has caused the left and right chain adjustment washers to be a tic different between the two sides of the rear swing-arm.  I'll post some pictures to show what I mean.  To check for chain straightness, I use a handheld laser and place it on the rear sprocket, pointing along the chain towards front sprocket.  You can see in the last picture that things are lined up pretty well, or so I think (I readjusted the chain yesterday and haven't ridden since).
Left Side: i.imgur.com/cN6cObo
Right Side: i.imgur.com/VPjLggM
"Laser Guided" chain adjustment: i.imgur.com/cpGmR5F
What do you think, am I using the wrong method for checking straightness, is my right washer a little too bent out of shape?  The bolts for adjustment are different by ~1/16" BUT the bottoms of bolts are slanted so it is not possible to get an accurate measurement from there.

[twocool]

Don't go by the marks on the swing arm...these are good for initial rough alignment only ...your laser is the way to go, for good true alignment.

The adjusters at the end of the swing arms should keep the wheel from sliding forward in the slots...make sure they have no space  or slack when you tighten down the axle nuts...

If you tighten the axle nuts to the specified torque...trust me...they won't come loose...no need for loc tite...

Plus your axle has the  cotter pin for even added safety...(many USA bikes just have a locking nut with no cotter pin)...

Sometimes the chain will get tighter or looser when you torque down the axle nut...So set the chain tension adjusters first with the axle nut loose...get the chain slack as per spec...then as you begin to tighten the axle nut to spec.,  keep checking to see that the chain slack stays where you want it...you may have to re-set the adjusters to compensate.


Remember....the chain slack is checked while the bike is on the SIDE STAND......

If you adjust it properly on the side stand, and then you go and check it later on the center stand...it will appear too slack...........so always on the side stand...(with the bikes own weight on the suspension)

I bet if you go through  the whole chain tension and wheel alignment procedure once more....probably put a 1/6 or 1/3 turn on the adjusters...you're gonna get the proper chain slack, and it will stay for a good long time..

The washer on the right side is kind of beat up....I've replaced mine once, and hammered them back into shape in a vise many times...I try to keep them from turning while tightening the axle nut...not always easy to do...but if they try to turn, the bent-over tab hits the swing arm and bends out of shape.....Really....you don't need those tabs...a round washer would work fine too....just use laser for alignment..


Cookie




Cookie

Thanks for replies.
Janx101 and twocool, I think you guys are right.  The chain measures 10" dead on.  What would you recommend I do, add some locktight or add another nut or ... ?
On a semi-related note, the alignment to get my chain straight has caused the left and right chain adjustment washers to be a tic different between the two sides of the rear swing-arm.  I'll post some pictures to show what I mean.  To check for chain straightness, I use a handheld laser and place it on the rear sprocket, pointing along the chain towards front sprocket.  You can see in the last picture that things are lined up pretty well, or so I think (I readjusted the chain yesterday and haven't ridden since).
Left Side: i.imgur.com/cN6cObo
Right Side: i.imgur.com/VPjLggM
"Laser Guided" chain adjustment: i.imgur.com/cpGmR5F
What do you think, am I using the wrong method for checking straightness, is my right washer a little too bent out of shape?  The bolts for adjustment are different by ~1/16" BUT the bottoms of bolts are slanted so it is not possible to get an accurate measurement from there.

[Janx101]

Ummm. .. what twocool said!! Lol. . I was merely voicing an initial suspicion. .. can't begin to compete with his chain info!

[twocool]

Janx,

Sorry for the quick and lengthy reply...I couldn't help it, it was a CHAIN reaction!

I didn't mean to yank anybody's CHAIN..

You could pass on my e mail...then it will become a CHAIN letter...

I'm just trying to keep you guys from buying cheap equipment for your bikes, I don't what a "chain, chain, chain...CHAIN of fools"!

Cheap stuff is available all over the place at those CHAIN stores...

I hope my comments don't drive anybody to CHAIN smoking!

I do apologize for this unfortunate CHAIN of events!

Cookie

Ummm. .. what twocool said!! Lol. . I was merely voicing an initial suspicion. .. can't begin to compete with his chain info!

[Iarn]

These puns are murder. Arrest Twocool for homicide.

[gsJack]

A few years ago I found my rear wheel loosening up and allowing the chain slack to increase and I aligned and tighten it up again.  It repeated a couple of times and I kept tightening the axle nut tighter and finally the rear wheel locked up.  Turned out to be the left rear wheel bearing was disinegrating.  Your getting too much change in your new chain even for a low cost standard chain.  Check your rear wheel bearings carefully before riding again.  I was lucky my wheel locked up a low speed.

I wouldn't put anything but a sealed o-ring or x-ring chain on a GS500.  Your standard chain will wear a lot faster than a sealed one.  I used standard chains on my 400cc Hondas back in the 80s but they were heavier 530 chains that lasted only about 10-12k miles and I'm getting 14-18k or so on the narrower 520 sealed chains on the GSs depending on how much winter salt water I ride thru.

Check your wheel bearings!

[sledge]

I have never fretted too much about chain tension, if it looks right its good enough for me and its pretty obvious by feel and sight when when its set wrong or worn out.

Set it up on the side or centre stand whatever floats your boat....it doesn't matter either way as far as I am concerned. Imagine this.......you set your tension by the book but weigh 8st, how tight will the chain be when you sit on it? Alternatively  you set your tension by the book but weigh 18st, how tight will the chain be when you sit on it?.......... 

Neither have I ever worried too much about stretch, pulling the two rearmost links off the back sprocket is a good enough indicator


Ok its a pushbike but the principle is the same.

If I was really anal about wear and stretch I would buy a tool 

http://www.xblok.co.uk/www.xblok.co.uk/info.php?p=6

[twocool]

If you set the chain tension to the specification...but on the center stand instead of the side stand (ie unlaoded)  ...when you ride and hit bumps you WILL over stress the chain..as the slack goes out as the suspension compresses........

Cookie

I have never fretted too much about chain tension, if it looks right its good enough for me and its pretty obvious by feel and sight when when its set wrong or worn out.

Set it up on the side or centre stand whatever floats your boat....it doesn't matter either way as far as I am concerned. Imagine this.......you set your tension by the book but weigh 8st, how tight will the chain be when you sit on it? Alternatively  you set your tension by the book but weigh 18st, how tight will the chain be when you sit on it?.......... 

Neither have I ever worried too much about stretch, pulling the two rearmost links off the back sprocket is a good enough indicator


Ok its a pushbike but the principle is the same.

If I was really anal about wear and stretch I would buy a tool 

http://www.xblok.co.uk/www.xblok.co.uk/info.php?p=6

[sledge]

Fair comment but what happens to the slack when someone who weighs

a) 8 st
and
b) 18 st

Sits on it ?

....and what happens when it hits the bumps with a rider who weighs

a) 8st
and
b) 18st?

Same thing?.......nah!! 

[Janx101]

I'd be taking 'my' rider weight into consideration when adjusting the slack in the chain... and being a larger size I normally allow a little more. . Makes sense to me

[twocool]

both those weights can bottom out the suspension......(what the hell is a stone anyway?  12 LBS ??)

Just the heavier guy will bottom it out more often....but you can adjust the shock for that...

Once you bottom out...there is no more to go....


So if you adjust the chain the way Suzuki says to...you  won't over stress the chain...no matter what the weight....

If you adjust the chain way loose because of the misconception of a heavy rider...then the chain will be way too loose when the suspension unloads, and chain can come off or other problems of too loose of a chain...

Suzuki also has a max load of driver and rider...you should stay within that spec also...

Or if you think you are smarter than the engineers at Suzuki...then do it you own home brew way!

just sayin'

cookie

Fair comment but what happens to the slack when someone who weighs

a) 8 st
and
b) 18 st

Sits on it ?

....and what happens when it hits the bumps with a rider who weighs

a) 8st
and
b) 18st?

Same thing?.......nah!! 

[J_Walker]

Or if you think you are smarter than the engineers at Suzuki...then do it you own home brew way!

I've "seen" what those engineers at suzuki do... not sure If I wanna trust them or not. 

[twocool]

OK smartie pants....tell us how YOU adjust the chain....(and how Suzuki way ...is all wrong.... and your way is all right)..

Just askin'


Cookie

Or if you think you are smarter than the engineers at Suzuki...then do it you own home brew way!

I've "seen" what those engineers at suzuki do... not sure If I wanna trust them or not. 

[Big Rich]

Let's not over think this fellas. While I can say "it is just a chain", I understand the importance of taking it to the extremes (too tight / loose).

While I agree with Twocool about the procedure and reasoning behind it, I won't say Sledge is flat out wrong either. I would say however, that Sledge has plenty of experience with working on bikes though, and for a new owner / rider I wouldn't recommend just eyeballing chain tension.

And I definitely agree with Jack about using sealed chains - I had a 1968 Honda that wouldn't fit a sealed chain. Chain maintenance on that bike was required on a much more regular basis.

[Janx101]

I see the point made by twocool now!... hadn't realised that factor. .. but. .
Stock suspension can/will bottom out.. we all been there!

What about with like my katana shock though? Since put in never bottomed yet... but more length/travel in it.... even with my 310 ish lbs geared up.... that going to affect the situ? .. I'm tired tho... I don't think it would cos no bottom out. .. or is the extra travel in the top?... very tired actually! ... anyone care to explain?