Recommended Guide to removing carbs?

[nuclearfenix]

Hey there,

So I've been having issues with my GS500F 2007, I had a guy I met on reddit come over and take a look at it. He said he's 80% sure that the carbs and jets should be cleaned.

I'm not mechanically inclined so is there a video or guide that you folks would recommend for a complete noob trying to get to the carbs and clean them? (Aside from the service manual or any of the other manuals)

As another note I may aswell just tell you guys what's going on with my bike and see if you agree with him.

My bike started running funny the other day after I charged up the battery, before that I was messing with the idle screw because my idle was low. In reality I found out I was having issues due to a low battery.

So I adjusted the idle back down. Jump back to today, my RPMS are stuck around 4k rpm after the initial warm up. While riding the bike will randomly lose rpms and stall out when slowing down.

Thats when he told me I should clean the carbs out.

[Big Rich]

Have you checked the Wiki yet? Some good info there:

http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.Rejetting

Obviously that section is for changing the jets, but it might be worth a read.

[nuclearfenix]

Yeah, found that one earlier. I will use that when I upgrade the jets.

[Al Capwn]

There is also a thread of video tutorials; many of them published on YouTube. BaltimoreGS has a series that covers a wide array of repair and maintenance tasks for the GS. You can search YouTube and should come up with that channel.

If the RPMS are stuck, that usually means too much air is getting in - you have an air leak somewhere. Typically, this is caused by a vacuum leak. Perhaps one of the smaller hoses that connect into the carb, or by the intake manifold where the carb joins into the body of the engine. Cleaning the carbs isn't a bad idea, but you can check for a vacuum leak by spraying starter fluid/carb cleaner/WD40 around the hoses and intake and see if the RPMS jump. If they do, you have a leak. If not, take apart the carbs - specifically focus the bottom portion that contain the fuel bowls and jets.

Also, don't be afraid to work on the bike - I am not mechanically inclined at all, and with the help of a buddy, I am rebuilding my GS from the frame up. This bike is VERY basic in terms of ease of assembly/maintenance. At first I was apprehensive on taking the carb apart - now I think I could do it in my sleep.

[HPP8140]

Check exhaust valve clearance

[nuclearfenix]

There is also a thread of video tutorials; many of them published on YouTube. BaltimoreGS has a series that covers a wide array of repair and maintenance tasks for the GS. You can search YouTube and should come up with that channel.

If the RPMS are stuck, that usually means too much air is getting in - you have an air leak somewhere. Typically, this is caused by a vacuum leak. Perhaps one of the smaller hoses that connect into the carb, or by the intake manifold where the carb joins into the body of the engine. Cleaning the carbs isn't a bad idea, but you can check for a vacuum leak by spraying starter fluid/carb cleaner/WD40 around the hoses and intake and see if the RPMS jump. If they do, you have a leak. If not, take apart the carbs - specifically focus the bottom portion that contain the fuel bowls and jets.

Also, don't be afraid to work on the bike - I am not mechanically inclined at all, and with the help of a buddy, I am rebuilding my GS from the frame up. This bike is VERY basic in terms of ease of assembly/maintenance. At first I was apprehensive on taking the carb apart - now I think I could do it in my sleep.

I already started taking it apart, the point that i'm stuck on is removing the tubes from the carbs from the petcock, it's kind hard to get them off. I've been watching BaltimoreGS's stuff, trying to follow the guide step by step.

[Al Capwn]

I am guessing you are talking about the fuel line that runs from the bottom of the carb to the frame petcock. Yes, that is a bear to get off and also unfortunately tends to be fairly brittle. You can also try disconnecting the hose from the carb side or the petcock side. I am sure there are some folks that may suggest some tips for dealing with stuck hoses. I used WD40, but I am sure there is a good spray lubricant or magic trick to removing them.

[nuclearfenix]

I am guessing you are talking about the fuel line that runs from the bottom of the carb to the frame petcock. Yes, that is a bear to get off and also unfortunately tends to be fairly brittle. You can also try disconnecting the hose from the carb side or the petcock side. I am sure there are some folks that may suggest some tips for dealing with stuck hoses. I used WD40, but I am sure there is a good spray lubricant or magic trick to removing them.

I sprayed the hell out of it with PB blaster and unfortunately stripped the screw.
I should've known I would do something that stupid. I think I'm just gonna take it to a shop and make sure it gets done correctly.

[Al Capwn]

Wait...how did we get from fuel hose to stripped screw? Just a heads up, but those brass screws on the carb are notorious for being tightened by some body-building Austrian to incredible levels. You will need a JIS screwdriver - NOT a Philips, if you want to remove them out without stripping them. For me, I had to take a dremel and cut a slot in the screw to make it a flat-head screw to remove it.

Before you take it to the shop, do yourself a favor and order some stainless steel socket-cap bolts. 5-10 bucks for a pack of 'em. The dimensions are on the forums/Wiki; two sizes, one for the float bowls and one for the carb top caps.  Either do it yourself, or have the shop do it, BUT replace the stock brass screws.

You'll thank me later.

[nuclearfenix]

Wait...how did we get from fuel hose to stripped screw? Just a heads up, but those brass screws on the carb are notorious for being tightened by some body-building Austrian to incredible levels. You will need a JIS screwdriver - NOT a Philips, if you want to remove them out without stripping them. For me, I had to take a dremel and cut a slot in the screw to make it a flat-head screw to remove it.

Before you take it to the shop, do yourself a favor and order some stainless steel socket-cap bolts. 5-10 bucks for a pack of 'em. The dimensions are on the forums/Wiki; two sizes, one for the float bowls and one for the carb top caps.  Either do it yourself, or have the shop do it, BUT replace the stock brass screws.

You'll thank me later.

I eventually got the carbs back out, but unfortunately I didn't take enough pictures and it's dark out. So putting everything back together is a puzzle and annoying. Anyone in the NoVA area willing to help a brother out?