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Many clutch adjustment questions. 8-)

Started by anoopb, August 01, 2015, 09:18:48 PM

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anoopb

So i recently broke my clutch cable.

I replaced it and it went very smoothly.

However, I think I didn't adjust it right.

I have a few questions though instead of just experimenting to get an understanding of the clutch adjustment process.

on either end of the clutch cable, there's a lock nut and adjustment screw. What does this adjust exactly? is it free play adjustment only?

when i take off the clutch plate with the two philips head screws, there's a lock nut with a screw i can adjust. What does that do? Does it simply turn the metal piece on the inside with the spring attached to it? What does turning that do exactly?

also, what are the results of turning the lock nuts and adjustments screws when loosening or tightening?

so here's my issue.

My friction zone is a lot smaller than it was before this new clutch. It almost doesn't engage until i let the clutch out fully. I'd like it to engage a bit sooner so i can have smoother starts off the line.

what do i adjust in order to do that. i'll try and make a video based on the answers so that folks can follow that in the future. I noticed that there's not really a clutch adjustment video for the GS.

many thanks folks!
2000 GS500E 8700 Miles. Dumped once. Lowered apparently. has 9400 miles as of 12/12

Suzuki Stevo

This should explain it for you...

I Ride: at a speed that allows me to ride again tomorrow AN400K7, 2016 TW200, Boulevard M50, 2018 Indian Scout, 2018 Indian Chieftain Classic

anoopb

I've seen this before but i don't really understand what i'm doing with the adjustment itself.
2000 GS500E 8700 Miles. Dumped once. Lowered apparently. has 9400 miles as of 12/12

Suzuki Stevo

Quote from: anoopb on August 02, 2015, 08:27:11 AM
I've seen this before but i don't really understand what i'm doing with the adjustment itself.

If #6 is too tight your clutch will slip, it's the same as holding the clutch lever in while riding, if #6 is too loose, finding neutral will be hard and gear changes will be rough because the clutch isn't releasing all the way.
I Ride: at a speed that allows me to ride again tomorrow AN400K7, 2016 TW200, Boulevard M50, 2018 Indian Scout, 2018 Indian Chieftain Classic

anoopb

Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on August 02, 2015, 01:16:15 PM
Quote from: anoopb on August 02, 2015, 08:27:11 AM
I've seen this before but i don't really understand what i'm doing with the adjustment itself.

If #6 is too tight your clutch will slip, it's the same as holding the clutch lever in while riding, if #6 is too loose, finding neutral will be hard and gear changes will be rough because the clutch isn't releasing all the way.

Ok so i'm doing something wrong there. When i loosen the lock nut, and adjust the adjusting screw, the lock nut moves with it left and right. Do i need to hold the lock nut and tighten the adjusting screw? will it still tighten up and meet "high resistance" ?

does 5 and 6 control the friction zone?

i also noticed that because i'm used to a friction zone being in a specific place on the clutch, there was a small burning smell which i think is from the clutch plates?

i think adjusting the friction zone will reduce this yes?
2000 GS500E 8700 Miles. Dumped once. Lowered apparently. has 9400 miles as of 12/12

gsJack

#5
The push rod free play is most important to proper clutch action so get it right.  I take a 10 mm 3/8 drive deep wall socket and clamp a vicegrips tightly on it and place it on the locknut and reach thru the socket with a screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw.  Hold the screw while loosening and tightening the locknut and hold the locknut in place while adjusting the screw to 1/4 turn freeplay.  You can't get it right without tools to hold the screw and locknut at the same time.  Once you get it right it's good for a long time.  I think I did it twice for the 100k miles on my 02.

The adjustment at the clutch lever is turned all the way in and locked to use for future clutch lever free play adjustments and the adjustment at the engine end of the cable is used to set initial freeplay adjutment.  Make sure it's screwed in far enough while you are adjusting the pushrod freeplay so it doesn't interfere with that important adjustment.

407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

anoopb

Quote from: gsJack on August 03, 2015, 11:32:22 AM
The push rod free play is most important to proper clutch action so get it right.  I take a 10 mm 3/8 drive deep wall socket and clamp a vicegrips tightly on it and place it on the locknut and reach thru the socket with a screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw.  Hold the screw while loosening and tightening the locknut and hold the locknut in place while adjusting the screw to 1/4 turn freeplay.  You can't get it right without tools to hold the screw and locknut at the same time.  Once you get it right it's good for a long time.  I think I did it twice for the 100k miles on my 02.

The adjustment at the clutch lever is turned all the way in and locked to use for future clutch lever free play adjustments and the adjustment at the engine end of the cable is used to set initial freeplay adjutment.  Make sure it's screwed in far enough while you are adjusting the pushrod freeplay so it doesn't interfere with that important adjustment.


this was my plan of action exactly. I think i F'd up the adjustment last time because the lock nut moved with it and would naturally tighten it up.

i wasn't sure if that was the tightness the document was referring to or if the adjusting screw would tight on its own. I assume it tightens on its own.

thanks gsJack!
2000 GS500E 8700 Miles. Dumped once. Lowered apparently. has 9400 miles as of 12/12

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