New rider, new bike!

[Big Rich]

SOB, I can't remember what all you've done (sorry - too lazy to read all the old posts). Have you done the valves yet? And have you pulled the carbs off and given them a deep cleaning? Not just "run a wire thru the jets" cleaning, but a thorough cleaning.....

[SonofBochy]

Checked the valves and the consensus was leave as is, even tho the left exhaust was on the looser end at .013


I don't feel comfortable cleaning the carbs myself tbh. I'd rather have someone with experience do that. At this point I'm still just trying to diagnose the problem without fiddling with stuff that doesn't need it.

Someone said on another forum to give this test a try: pull the left plug to see if wet or dry with gas. Wet = spark issue. Dry = gas issue. I'm gonna try this and see if I can tell anything by doing so.


I'm sure it looks like I'm taking the long route here but I'd rather know for sure than take something apart I'm not comfortable with doing, especially if it doesn't need to be done and the problem could have been fixed by an easier procedure rather without possibly creating another one.



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[SonofBochy]

I've determined that the left side coil is bad and needs to be replaced. Here's my reasoning:

Bike starts great, tested spark on each one while idling and started. Both plug caps delivering spark.

Ride bike around for a few miles, bike slows down/ becomes less throttle responsive, so I pull the plug cap on the left side and test spark. No spark. Whereas before at a cold start, there was healthy spark.


Anyone thing I'm wrong in my conclusion? I hope I'm right, this has taken too long to diagnose. I'm about to order a coil assembly on eBay to replace the left side.

I plan on cleaning at least the float bowls and popping in a fuel filter on the line going from the frame Petcock to the carburetors. I think I'll feel much more comfortable then.


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[Janx101]

Have you checked the coil end of the lead for looseness? .. if it's loose in there they can kinda be tightened up by pushing in and giving a bit of a turn clockwise. ..

I managed to fumble/yank my right lead clean out of the coil a while back... recommendation here was dab of dielectric grease and screw the sucker back in there! ... hasn't failed again yet (over 2 years) ... I'll get to replacing the whole thing one day maybe

[Janx101]

Oh and if you absolutely MUST put an inline filter in there.... make sure it seals on the hoses real good and is recommended for a gravity fed fuel system.... or stop buying dirty fuel from a back road station

[SonofBochy]

Thanks I'll check that out tomorrow.

The fuel filter would be more to prevent any possible rust from the tank getting to the carbs reducing the frequency of cleaning them.


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[SonofBochy]

So I replaced the coil and the problem still occurs after a few miles. No spark.


Could the wires from the coil to the battery have gone bad and need replacing? Is that a possibility?


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[Janx101]

Have you checked them for bendy weak spots and clean connections?

[SonofBochy]

I haven't inspected the full length of the wires but they both seem good at the coil end. One of the previous owners wrapped a bunch of electrical tape around all the wires at the front end of the bike.



Can I replace them with wires/connections from local sources? If so what parts would I need? If not, where should I purchase replacements?

I hate electrical stuff and have little to no knowledge of how it really works.

Are you thinking the metal connections just need to be cleaned with some citric acid?

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[Janx101]

No I'm thinking both ends of the leads need to be clean and secure

no info on citric acid use.

Multimeter would be handy.. you got any mates/buddies that do know electrical?

[SonofBochy]

Don't really have any buddies with automotive or motorcycle electrical experience... Trying to figure this out on my own.

I tested the signal generator (I believe what everyone refers to as the cdi) with the bike cold. I have the results written down but they were in good range.

I tried following the instructions in the clymer manual to test the stator (pickup) coil, but the instructions don't match up with what's on my bike.

Here's a picture of the stator coil:


Once I figure how to properly test the pickup coil, and rule that out, I'm going to take the covers off the wires and inspect and I guess test the wires going from the left coil back to... Wherever.

The frustrating thing is I'm not even sure what all these electrical pieces actually do... And the clymer manual is not helping me (a brand new owner) understand that.


Also, found this fuse completely loose, not connected anywhere, just sitting in the plastic cover on the rear of the bike. Anyone know what it is or where it belongs?




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[mwe]

1) that is not the stator - that is the regulator
2) that is your spare fuse...in case the starter relay fuse blows you have a spare. (this is the only fuse on the bike i think)

FWIW - this is a very basic machine with a very basic loom (aside from the safty interlock crap but even that is isolated from the rest of the system) - a little patience, a multi-meter and the wiring diagram should go a long way.

[Big Rich]

Yep. Technically called the regulator / rectifier, but usually referred to as R/R. The stator is located at the left side of the crankshaft, which provides AC power to the R/R. And if I'm not mistaken, that rubber boot should be on the starter relay (between the starter motor and battery).