2006 Gs500f carb problems

[GsSA_TX]

 UPDATE!!! PROBLEM SOLVED

Upon further inspection, I found both of my exhuast valves to be too tight. I had to shim both of them 0.15mm down to gain Proper clearance of about 0.08 mm.
I then disassembled my carbs completely and boiled them on the stove for about 2 hours in 50% vinegar and water. Then scrubbed then in hot soapy water, then sprayed carb cleaner through every hole I could find.
Left out the little o rings in the top of the carbs.

Replaced the spark plugs with new ones.

Bike runs great! Idles forever and had great throttle response.





First time poster here, Desperately in need of help! I searched and can't find a specific answer

Just bought a basket case 2006 gs500f that was not running.

23000 miles
K&N drop in air filter
Yoshi slip on

I Cleaned the spark plugs and changed the oil.

Cleaned the carbs and got the bike to fire up but would not stay running.
Cleaned them again even better and installed new jets and adjusted the air fuel mixture screw

Jets 20/62.5/142.5, screw 3 turns out and added 1 M3 washer to each needle

Now the bike runs. I can ride for about 30 seconds before it dies.
Checked on the bike 24 hours later and the air box had about an inch of gas is it.
So i Drained the float bowls, which never stopped ( petcock in ON position). Drained about a half liter between the two carbs from the float bowls.

Now the bike will start and jump rpms to 4000 and slowly come down and then die. Wait for a minute and it will start and do the same thing. I can adjust the throttle idle screw  up and keep it going for a short while but it will still die.

Will check for a vacuum leak tomorrow with carb cleaner spray

Please, any suggestion will help!

Thank you

[The Buddha]

Drop in K&N is not 142.5, 135 mains.
And you're flooding into the airbox.
Bad float O rings, poorly adjusted floats, bad petcock or bad hose routing caused the inch of gas in airbox.
OK so did you fix that or just drained it and ran ?

Find out why it did something first.
Now you sound like got no fuel flow ... or you have a bad float as well.

Cool.
Buddha.

[GsSA_TX]

I drained the gas from the air box and ran it, I guess I could put in the oem #130 main hey and see what happens also could adjust the float height tonight.

[GsSA_TX]

So I figured the float valves were not seating and causing the carbs to flood continuously. The needles looked fine so I replaced the o rings and adjusted the float height. But did not change the jets back to oem.

No more flooding!
Now the bike runs but still has a weird idle. It either jumps up to 4000 rpm the slowly back down until it dies.

So i searched the site for any info and came across several posts about a small oring in the top of each carb. I never saw any when i cleaned the carbs but i was able to scrounge up some that fit.
Now the bike runs!
Stable idle but the throttle hangs up when I give it a quick twist. It tabs at about 1500 room for 20 minutes no problem
Now I need to figure that out and also sync the carbs

[GsSA_TX]

UPDATE

I fixed the flooding issues by replacing the float valves and seats.

Fixed the hanging idle by  replacing the small orings that sit next to the diaphram in each carburetor and then adjusting air/ fuel mixture screws, the idle screw and syncing the carbs.

Now that the bike is running I can hear some loud clanking in the left cylinder. Almost low enough to be in the left bottom end of the crank case

Don't know what that is.

Both exhuast pipes are hot so I know they are both firing.

I don't recall hearing this noise before I cleaned the carbs the second time.

Any suggestions??

Thanks

[The Buddha]

06 carbs don't have O rings in the tops. You have 89-00 carbs ??
If so, you need 127.5 mains and they are large round not small round.
Cool.
Buddha.

[GsSA_TX]

Interesting that you say the 2006 had no orings in the to of the carbs because there is a place for them however when I first took the carbs apart I didn't see any there.

I think I found why it is sounding poorly.

The bike runs the same with or without the left cylinder sparkplug unplugged and runs very poorly, almost not at all with the right Sparkplug unplugged.

Do the left cylinder if not wanting to fire.

The left cylinder has spark, I can see it arc from the plug wire to the engine case when unplugged.

Think it may be the left carb idle circuit, so I just cleaned the jets and idle passages again.

[GsSA_TX]

After cleaning the idle circuit not much changed, the bike idles but still runs poorly.

I switched the sparkplugs to opposite sides and the left cylinder still remains weak.

So sparkplugs are fine.

I did notice some vacuum leaks around the vacuum tubes and intake boot where the carb slips in.

I don't think that would cause a weak firing on one cylinder.

Now the bike just blew 2 fuses while idling after about 5 minutes.

Getting fed up with this thing

[GsSA_TX]

As an update to the running on one cylinder issue

I tested the coils and get the same readings on each
Primary coil 5ohms
Secondary coil 29 on the 200k ohm setting

I swapped the coils to opposing sides and am still trying to find the cause of blowing the fuses

[lucas]

What amperage fuses are you using?  I believe on mine it is a 20amp fuse.

[GsSA_TX]

This bike has the same 20A fuse.

I cleaned up a bunch of electrical pigtails and any corrosion that I saw. Replaced the fuse and it runs again.

Still on the right cylinder only.

Left cylinder seems to be 90% dead, it will occasionally spark and turn the motor over by itself.

My someone remain the same after swapping plugs and coils to the opposite cylinder.

Could it be the CDI or the signal generator?
My signal generator looks fine to me, a little corrosion on the soldered points. It did have rust in there from being open to rain for awhile. I cleaned all of that out also.

Any thoughts on the CDI or signal generator for a 2006 gs500f with the single point signal generator??

[lucas]

Your 2006 should have a single sensor in the signal generator and the rotor should have multiple things sticking out, one is wider than the others.  This is what you mean by single point?

[lucas]

I just recently sorted out a dead cylinder on my bike.  I had several problems since it was a rusted out basket case.

My problems included a severed wire coming from the signal generator, an intermittent spark on one coil, and dirty jets and probably dirty air passageways in the carbs.

I boiled my carbs, got new jets, fixed the bad wiring, and bought a used coil.

It took forever to figure out the last bit, that the coil was bad, because when I swapped the positions of the coils I didn't mark their positions before I took them off.... and so I accidentally put them back in the same positions...  that caused me a huge headache!

[GsSA_TX]

Yes that's exactly what mine looks like.

I think I found my problem

In the diagram, the lower wire with a prong end screws into a black plastic thing that goes inside the engine case.
It was a tiny bit oxidized so I unscrewed it and cleaned it and put it back on. In doing so I noticed the black plastic thing turned clockwise about 5 degrees by the time the screw was tight
I turned the bike on and it is able to run on each cylinder independently and sounds good running on both cylinders, however it is backfiring now.
Backfiring out of the air jet in the front of each carb about every 10 seconds. Any thoughts?

[lucas]

If I am not mistaken that extra wire there goes to the oil pressure sensor.

How are you testing if the engine is running on both cylinders?  Are you pulling the spark plug wires and listening for a change in idle?

If you have an infrared temperature sensor you can easily take the temps of the exhaust from each cylinder.  That was how I first discovered that I had a dead cylinder.  The live cylinder's exhaust pipe was ~470 degrees F and the dead cylinder was maybe ~170F.

When I had a dead cylinder it, too, would "cough" out through the intake.  On another occasion when trying to start it for a while it backfired through the exhaust a couple times which sounded like gunshots!    I'm not very clear on what causes the backfiring through the intake...

Another thing, on one occasion I found that one of the wires coming from the generator had been "pushed out" of the connector.  I discovered it on accident, it was really hard to tell by looking at it that it was not seated correctly in the plastic connector.  I pulled the blade shaped connector all the way out, bent the little holding tab a little more, and snapped it back in place.


Regarding your fuse burning out:
I see you have an electrical meter.  You should go through the wiring on your bike and look for improper grounds.  You might try using an alligator clip to secure the black lead of your meter to the negative terminal of your battery and then use the red lead of your meter to probe around.  I think you want to check any wires that are red or orange first.  On this board or on Google you should be able to find a good electrical diagram for your bike (in color).

Also, I had an experience where I swapped the electrical connectors from the rear brake light and.... something else, I don't remember.  But on my 1992 bike there are black two connectors that are the same shape.  I figured out my mistake when I examined each connector and found that the color of the wires going into one side changed into different colors coming out the other side!  I believe when i did that, though, the bike didn't start??   Can't remember all the details on that snafu.

[GsSA_TX]

I am testing each cylinder by unplugging the spark plug wire, making sure it isn't contacting anything metal and then cranking the bike over.

It is running at about 1200rpm on each cylinder independently when testing and at about 2000 rpm when both cylinders are plugged in.

I ran it for about 20 minutes last night without blowing a fuse, so I think I am OK on that front for now.

I cleaned the signal generator with a wire brush because it was slightly rusted.

I also cannot find what that black plug could be other than an oil sensor, but why would that affect the timing?
Maybe because it was loose?

Also the backfiring is suddenly present now that the bike runs on both cylinders. It didn't have a backfiring issue until I tightened that screw that goes into the oil sensor.

I can see it backfiring gas out of each of the right air jet hole on the air box side of the carbs. Could that be caused by the fuel mixture screw?

[lucas]

I do not believe that the oil pressure sensor can cause your backfiring.  I think the only thing it is hooked up to is the warning light in the dash.

I think I need to see some pictures of what your talking about, first the o-rings on the tips of your carbs.  The old style carbs had o-rings... not the 2006s.

Also can you give a diagram or a picture of what you mean by "right air jet hole"

I don't know if the mixture screw is causing your backfiring but it seems plausible to me that backfiring could be caused by  fuel mixture being wrong due to dirty or wrong-sized jets, mixture screw out of adjustment, dirty passages in the carbs or vacuum leaks.

[Joolstacho]

UPDATE

I fixed the flooding issues by replacing the float valves and seats.

Fixed the hanging idle by  replacing the small orings that sit next to the diaphram in each carburetor and then adjusting air/ fuel mixture screws, the idle screw and syncing the carbs.

Now that the bike is running I can hear some loud clanking in the left cylinder. Almost low enough to be in the left bottom end of the crank case

Don't know what that is.

Both exhuast pipes are hot so I know they are both firing.

I don't recall hearing this noise before I cleaned the carbs the second time.

Any suggestions??


Thanks

That sounds just like the starter clutch clanking.

[GsSA_TX]

The pen  is pointing at the right air jet I am taking about
[/URL][/img]

[GsSA_TX]

The orings in the top of the carbs in this photo

[/URL][/img]

And the black plastic thing in the lower right of the signal generator that was loose

[/URL][/img]