Jeff's Problem Thread

[bmf]

You dont need to buy a shim set. The manual has a table that shows which shim to buy to get them on spec based on existing clearance. Don't have it with me (holidaying in bc).  But as gsjack says, keep the exhausts on the loose side.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

[1034am]

Haynes manual?

Will check tonight, thx.

[UCFjeff]

Hang on! something must be way out of whack if you can't shim the clearances right eh?
eh?
I'd be pull the head off and check the valve seats and valves. If you are out of range of the shim adjustment you either have stretched or worn valves, or recessed (worn) valve seats. Or what else? PO ground the camshafts maybe? Would that do it?

Gonna have someone with a little more knowledge take a look at it with me soon. My guess is the previous owner didn't check the clearances much.

[UCFjeff]

So I'm looking at getting a spare head from  a member here. The only thing is that it has a broken exhaust valve. Is it possible to swap parts from each head to make a complete one that works?

[bombsquad83]

Hey Jeff.  Sorry it's getting a little confusing in this thread since 1034am is hijacked it with his own issues.  So you are getting no clearance with the smallest shim possible (2.15mm?).  I would double check your timing (both on the timing rotor, and the position of the camshaft gears) when you check the valves to make sure there is no user error there.  If everything checks out, and still no clearance, I would say it's time for that head to come off and further inspect it.  Possibly a burnt/damaged valve there. 

It might be possible to make a head that works with the parts from yours and the new head.  If I were you, I might just take both heads to a knowledgeable machinist and see which one is the best shape and have valves cut and installed on that head where needed.

[UCFjeff]

Hey Jeff.  Sorry it's getting a little confusing in this thread since 1034am is hijacked it with his own issues.  So you are getting no clearance with the smallest shim possible (2.15mm?).  I would double check your timing (both on the timing rotor, and the position of the camshaft gears) when you check the valves to make sure there is no user error there.  If everything checks out, and still no clearance, I would say it's time for that head to come off and further inspect it.  Possibly a burnt/damaged valve there. 

It might be possible to make a head that works with the parts from yours and the new head.  If I were you, I might just take both heads to a knowledgeable machinist and see which one is the best shape and have valves cut and installed on that head where needed.

Thanks for the reply. I had double checked the timing when i checked the clearances, so that shouldn't be the problem.

Taking them to a machinist sounds like the best option available. I will update when I can. Thanks

[UCFjeff]

Hello all, I haven't fixed the head problem but this is a different question.

I decided to put on a lunchbox filter and jets(40, 147.5, 2 washers, and 3 turns) because the stocker pissed me off at how tight it fits in there. Now the bike wants to shoot up to 5-6k rpm when I'm riding and when stopped at a light. I can bring it down by messing with the clutch and brake and sometimes it stay idling at 1200ish but most the time it creeps back up. I lost a vacuum port o ring putting it back together  and couldn't find the right size so I put a slightly larger one in and it still had the same problem.

I'm gonna try going out to 3.25 or 3.5 turns and see if it helps after reading some of Buddha's posts. I think the o ring is causing the majority of the problem.

I will note that I think it's been running on one cylinder for a while. I'm going to check coil wires tomorrow.

Any thoughts? The real question is where do you guys like getting o rings from and I didn't see any posts with specific sizes.

Here's how it sits now. Had to get a new tank so painted the red plastics