Stator looks good, new rectifier installed, but still having charging issues?

tzzzel · December 04, 2015, 03:42:03 PM

Hi. I was having some charging issues with my bike. Been through several rectifiers this year. Figured it was the stator. So, I opened up the crank case (?), took a look at the stator, and it looks fine, completely copper.

I took pics, see for yourself: http://imgur.com/a/y7T2f

Note, if you think one of them looks darker burnt, it's not -- it's just the glue that darkens it. I have a replacement, but I opted not to use it, since my stator looked fine. I did install a new recitifier, which helped in the past, but I don't think it changed much.

Some numbers: with a battery reading of 12.15v, I got 12.5v @ 5k rpm. However, I am nowhere close to the 13.5v that I should have.

So for the past 4 months or so, I've had to take out my battery and charged it with my trickle charger. Gets it up to about 12.3v only. It's a bit annoying. Any thoughts on what the problem might be?

Big Rich · December 04, 2015, 04:49:12 PM

So your battery never gets above 12.5 volts, either from high revs or being on a tender? I would guess that your battery may be part of the problem.

I don't have the link handy, but do a Google search for "stator papers GSResources". The older GS bikes have very similar electrical systems, and they have figured every possible problem (and solution) for them.

tzzzel · December 04, 2015, 05:38:51 PM

Correct, I've put the battery on trickle charge 1.5A for hours and after taking it off and waiting for it to normalize, it never is higher than 12.3v.

I guess that's a possibility. I would've thought charging system and never the thought of a battery. It is probably 2+ years old by now. Time flies when you're enjoying a fully-functional, low maintenance bike. Can I do a test at a mechanic or something? I believe the term is if the battery will "Hold a charge" or something like that?

Thanks Big Rich.

Big Rich · December 04, 2015, 05:49:28 PM

I think most auto part stores can test your battery.

lucas · December 04, 2015, 08:49:21 PM

Your photo is showing with low resolution on my screen, how is the condition of the magnets on the rotor? Are the magnets broken, chipped, or separated from the rotor?

Also it is possible for the insulation on the copper wiring to be thin or missing in places and that would limit the performance of the coil.

rg500gamma · December 04, 2015, 08:50:57 PM

Quote from: lucas on December 04, 2015, 08:49:21 PM
Your photo is showing with low resolution on my screen, how is the condition of the magnets on the rotor? Are the magnets broken, chipped, or separated from the rotor?

Also it is possible for the insulation on the copper wiring to be thin or missing in places and that would limit the performance of the coil.

tzzzel · December 04, 2015, 08:57:17 PM

One thing I noticed when I opened it up is that the sealing stuff around the circular thing (the magnet) was a bit broken. It's orange in the picture that lines the thing. It was partly chipped off. Not sure what that stuff was.

I guess I won't 100% rule out the stator. It does look just fine though. I am still going to check for battery possibilities. Test under load. If so, it would be an easy fix, versus the stator, which would mean having to open up the case, opening up all the clamps hold the stator wire in place, and refilling oil

.

rg500gamma · December 04, 2015, 10:12:52 PM

put multimeter on battery and rev-up to see if charge goes past 12.5

The Buddha · December 04, 2015, 10:37:08 PM

Quote from: lucas on December 04, 2015, 08:49:21 PM
Your photo is showing with low resolution on my screen, how is the condition of the magnets on the rotor? Are the magnets broken, chipped, or separated from the rotor?

Also it is possible for the insulation on the copper wiring to be thin or missing in places and that would limit the performance of the coil.

Insulation on the copper wont make any difference to its performance - till it burns down. It will burn up faster with thin insulation.
If that was the case, you'd soon see a burnt spot in the thing.

BTW you start and run ok ? could you have a bad DMM ? or A bike with a big short in it. Try the negative post spark test.

Cool.
Buddha.

sledge · December 05, 2015, 02:17:32 AM

Batteries are always the weak link in the charging system and the component that's most likely to fail. When they do the symptoms can and often do suggest its something else at fault.

Get it load tested at a shop.....there is simply no other way of saying with 100% certainty that it is serviceable and until you know it is, its pointless even considering the fault could be elsewhere.

Or buy the kit yourself...Find a Sealy BT91/7

http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?gotonode=ViewProduct&method=mViewProduct&productid=6405&PromotionID=110135&PromotionTitleID=567

rg500gamma · December 05, 2015, 04:44:40 AM

harbor freight salvage has one too.

tzzzel · December 05, 2015, 09:04:39 PM

@rg500gamma why are all your replies indented? please check your english input tool.

Went to an O Reillys auto parts shop. Asked for a load test. They told me it was bad. It makes sense, because actually, I dug out my old receipt and my battery was purchased over 2 years ago. Also, I think they may have used a higher-amp charger for the initial charge, because I remember only waiting around 2-3 hours. I think that also leads to a reduced battery life.

Filled up my battery a hour ago and now starting my initial charge. Wish me luck.

P.S. For those getting a new battery, I might recommend spending a bit more and getting a sealed battery. Filling acid can be a bit tricky and dangerous. Spilled some on a cinder block and saw it sizzle, whoa.

rg500gamma · December 05, 2015, 11:43:08 PM

I had a sealed battery , however did not last as long as regular battery.

tzzzel · December 06, 2015, 03:44:38 PM

DUDES! I AM STUPIFIED!

I filled my battery last night, charged it, let it sit overnight. Woke up this morning to read it: 12.8v.

Then I put it in my bike and revved to 5k RPM: ~12.5V

So, even if the battery was old, it wasn't the issue, as I have tried with a brand new battery.

Also, the DMM can't possibly be bad, as it corresponds accurately (if the battery is < 12v, then it's harder to start).

** WHAT'S MY NEXT STEP?
I'm going to have to do the ohm testing for my stator and rectifier. Other than that, does anybody know what I should be looking for? I will try this "negative spark test" (first have to read what it is). Any tips would be appreciated.

rg500gamma · December 06, 2015, 11:08:37 PM

on my 1990 ZX-7 Kawasaki , the problem was the starter ( starter solenoid ) , put in new battery same thing again . gave up , let Whittier Kawasaki fix the problem . I would have never ever thought the starter would give so much trouble.

Big Rich · December 06, 2015, 11:27:53 PM

Have a look here:

http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers1.php

tzzzel · December 07, 2015, 01:16:46 AM

@Big Rich Thanks. That looks like a great resource. By this time, I'm starting to go crazy a bit, but at least my new battery will allow me to ride longer without having to recharge it.

@rg500gamma Hard to say if that's a consideration. Starting has never been the problem for me. It's the charging system that isn't working right. Everything else, including my starter solenoid seems great.

rg500gamma · December 07, 2015, 02:22:50 AM

in other words my ZX-7 Kawasaki was giving all the same troubles you stated . bike started great with new battery , no starting trouble at all , Whittier Kawasaki went through the whole wiring harness , checked every electrical circuit , had the bike for three days .......... get a phone call from Stan at Whittier Kawasaki stating the problem is, needs a "new starter" , told me the starter completes the circuit ..... the starter is draining the electrical system .

News:

Stator looks good, new rectifier installed, but still having charging issues?