Lets do something about those gauges

[Daeouse]

 

AWESOME SO FAR!!!!

[jeZZa]

amazing... so when can i order a set?

[kapiteinkoek]

https://youtu.be/R5p3bp1mD3E

It's working 

Will also be the last tach with the Arduino inside. Yes it fits but don't ask me how. Saves so much time and effort if the Arduino is placed next to the tachometer in the left over space in the instrument housing. I will probably run into lighting problems too because of the wire mess inside as well. It's alright though this is just a tryout unit. I'll build at least one more tachometer because now I used shitty greasy parts of bad looking units. Maybe I will make more but I need old instruments for that. I'm sure some Dutchies will have some bad ones lying around.



NEVER AGAIN



Everything is inside and it works but hell I'll never put everything in the instruments again and strongly advise people not to do this. I thought it would be convenient but is absolutely not. The best way to build something like this is by putting the Arduino's in a small box somewhere else on the bike then run a few wires to the instruments. It would only require 6 for the speedometer and 8 for the tachometer if you run both the needle and a gear indicator.

[Daeouse]

Put a discreet box underneath the tank between the turn signal generators. . .
That could work very nicely. . .

[kapiteinkoek]

Put a discreet box underneath the tank between the turn signal generators. . .
That could work very nicely. . .

A shielded (metal) box because I'm quite sure the ignition coils will mess up functionality. I already noticed this when I was cooking some motor oil to check the temperature sensors. My stove has this auto spark function and at a distance of 20cm the field coming from it crashed the Arduino. But yes that would be a much better solution.


-edit

finished up the tachometer



It was a lot of work and they don't even look that spectacular from the outside.



Functionality is mad though:
- Speedometer
- Tachometer (with this cool full range swipe at startup)
- Gear indicator
- Odometer
- Tripmeter
- Service meter (tracks how many km since last service)
- Clock (very accurate)
- Option to set the time
- Sump oil temperature
- Cilinder head temperature
- Outside air temperature

Mileage values are stored in the Arduino EEPROM which theoretically lasts 100,000 reads/writes (in reality it is more like 100,000-1,000,000) Because you get one every 1 km I also wrote a memory wear-leveller so at least the memory should be good for at least a million km. I included USB extension cables so I can update/reprogram the units without taking anything apart.

[kapiteinkoek]

We now have large numbers on the speedometer




Also, my tachometer unit died on me I discoved a bug last night where  the gear indicator does not always return to zero reliably. This morning neither of the motors responded.  I reckon the Arduino is fried because I have shorted it many times while experimenting. I pretty much expected this to happen because I ordered some extra Arduino's for moments like this 


-edit
It didn't die, I loaded a wrong version of the program and the failed reset bug is solved. 100% functional now.


https://youtu.be/EsIFJLHbjOs

[ShowBizWolf]

 

I love this thread... super nifty stuff kapiteinkoek... but you already know that 

[jdoorn14]

So, when this is all said & done, are you looking to sell this as a kit/replacement gauge set? I ask because I'm sure you're making people here salivate. Forgive me if you noted this earlier in the thread.

Also, I may have missed this as well, but did you ever figure out the display washing out in bright sun thing?

[kapiteinkoek]

I definitely do not plan making units for people the way they are now. I fitted everything inside but it doesn't actually fit. I barely managed to get everything inside. I don't plan selling on kits either as I have enough other stuff to do  I might do some additional builds for fun (e.g. I'll make at least another tachometer for myself and probably another one with a double needle system) and sell those but it's not going to be a standard thing I'll be doing from now on.
I will however release the code, parts list and a document that states where to connect what. If you can handle connecting dots, a soldering iron and some pliers anyone should be fine. I also put things together in such a way you don't really have to modify anything on the bike, no drilling holes no damage etc. Together with using dirt cheap parts it's a pretty fool proof thing to try.

The problem with the displays were the LED segment displays, these kind of units:


The problem in sunlight is that an LED cannot compensate for the sunlight. It would require blinding brightness to make it visible in direct sunlight. So I decided to completely skip those, integrate the functions (speed, battery voltage) in the large LCD and change gear indicator with the rotating number wheel.

What about the large LCD? Well this less-than-2-bucks LCD screen is transflective. It does not have to compensate for sunlight, light reflects from the background either from an LED or the sunlight. Contrast remains the same or may even go up in sunlight. 100% visibility in any condition.


I'll be testing the units on a round trip Norway (5500 miles) with my towbar and trailer attached.


What I also plan on doing is providing a solution for faulty speedometer/tachometer units. Functionality would be basic, only speed and RPM. The speedometer has a mechanical connection between odometer and tripmeter which generally keeps working fine. Instead of the magnet system a steppermotor can be added to drive the needle. Similar for the tachometer, if it fails just remove the insides, stick in the stepper motor and there you go a 'repaired' unit.

[jdoorn14]

Sounds good! I'd be interested in the source code, parts list and such, once you get through the next iteration of putting it in a shielded box and such.

[kapiteinkoek]

Parts list would remain the same. The only difference would be the box and different wire lengths 


I also just realized I've been a complete knob. The reason everything was very hard to fit is because of the wire mess. Because it's a size I often use I used 0,25mm² wire which is really thick wire for this application. The Arduinos cannot provide more than 5v with very limited current so the units could be put together easily with something like 0,14mm² or 0,05mm² wire. This would be a night and day difference when putting them together. More space would be left and the wire would be way more flexible.



Here a little 3D printed box for the ignition thing:


it will be filled with acid-free silicone sealant and then attached with two tiewraps to the headlight mount. It connects to one of the primary ignition coils and switches on/off the optocoupler. The Arduino basically sees it as a switch that turns on/off whenever a sparkplug ignites.


Finalized units ready for installation

[jdoorn14]

Yeah, there would be more space and easier bends with thinner wire, but that's still a lot of wires coming out of the gauges. 

I think my preference would be to run one or two wires to the gauges and have everything else going to a box located elsewhere.

[kapiteinkoek]

Agreed. Use multi-core wires (need 6 for the LCD and button in the speedometer and 4 for each stepper motor in the tachometer) to reduce it to 2 or 3 cables.
There is not really a benefit from building everything into the housing itself. I thought there was but I was wrong 
It's not so bad that I would take them apart again but I would not repeat the exercise.

[yamahonkawazuki]

Captain i am VERY IMPRESSED thusfar. when shes finished if at all possible would you be able to film her in operation. with my health issues, i plan on motorising my kneescooter. have plans on BOTH using an electric motor along with a gasoline engine. mainly to monitor engine RPM, AS WELL as monitoring current draw, and battery level for electric motor usage.  this is something ive got to do from ground up. since its hardly done if ever. both forms of propulsion to be able to use it indoors as well as outside. i do appreciate the inspiration my friend. truly.
Aaron

[kapiteinkoek]

Thanks. I had to look up what a kneescooter was because I've never heard of it or seen it. Putting a gasoline engine on that is insane so ofcourse you have my support.

Engine RPM and battery level are easy, you can even copy that from my units. For measuring current draw it's probably easiest to get an extentsion for measuring current. I've seen parts for less than 2 bucks that can handle up to 30A.

Will upload my code and used parts soon enough. The reason I have not done that yet is because I want to run it a couple of times first. It would be sad for example if it fails to keep track of the tripmeter then somebody thinks he has some miles left and runs out of gas. Or someone getting a ticket because my speed calculation is flawed.

I will try to film it in operation. Stationary is easy, while driving will be a little bit harder because I don't have a gropro or something similar. I'll have to make do with my cellphone but I'm sure I can figure something out.

[yamahonkawazuki]

ive got a sunpro supertach 3. which survived the wreck of my old cop car lol. i want to use it to house any gauges. the knee scooter i wish to use it on is called a kneerover ( all terrain) i put road tires on it. i want to put one training wheel on the bad leg side. along with a watercraft kill switch. also want to use it, and the pw6 ( chinese handlebar control  to maintain running.) theres a plan to make the engine a 4 stroke, but modular unit so i can use it indoors. the electric motor ( already have it) would be permanently mounted. pending the outcome of a bit of a crisis  regarding fused ankle. anyhoo i digress, i do admire what youve accomplished so far. i USED to have a digital atv cluster. would have been ideal. i powered it from the coil on my goped gtr40. anyhoo i will sit back and watch your creation in progress
Aaron

[adityo]

an ambitious upgrade capt, hardly can't wait for the final result   

[kapiteinkoek]

Had to deal with some shitty exams, will install the instruments tomorrow or the day after that. Round trip Norway should start saturday so they should definitely be on before that.

[kapiteinkoek]

Unfortunately you guys will have to wait a little bit more. I installed the instruments today, tried to get the tachometer rpm working then battery died on me. I'm on a tight schedual as I plan to leave on saturday so I had to abandon the digital tach for now and put back in the old original one.
I'm really short on time because I have to do a lot of maintenance.

I also discovered a problem with the battery voltage reader function because the Arduino does not boot when the voltage divider circuit is connected to the battery. I also did not have time to fit a hall sensor on one of the wheels to track the speed. Basically I'm only running the speedometer now for the temperature sensors and the clock. Everything else will have to wait a week or 2 before I can continue with that.

[lucas]

Have a good trip!