Mechanic refusing to use my parts (Sydney, NSW)

[lucas]

There are multiple right ways to make a buck

[sledge]

I pay my mechenic $80 an hour cash and I fit in around him he is worth it because he charges his hourly and is transparent and doesn't think it's appropriate to treat his customers like they are stupid and remove their choice of parts and supplier and then lie to them about why he is dong it. 

Charge a fair hourly rate if you are a good mechenic you will turn work away even if that rate is high. my guy charges a fair hourly but I would pay more because of his no BS way he operates and he always dose a good job and is honest with me.   

If I got an invoice from a mechenic with a low labour rate and parts that are expensive I would not go back because it looks like I am getting shafted on parts prices.

Treat your customers like people not idiots. be transparent with your pricing and not act like a con man shifting margin from one service to another to "appear cheaper" that's how you get repeat business and loyalty.

next you will be telling me that it's only fair I chip in for indicator fluid disposal costs.

M

Excuse me but who do you think cares who you deal with and how he operates? I for one don't 

You deal with who you want in a way that suits you both, and if you cant make a deal or don't like the terms look elsewhere,  isn't that how the commercial world functions?

If person A chooses to operate his business  in a different way to person B why the cynicism and why should person A be vilified for it?

A lot of contributers seem to think bike mechanics is simple and that all bike mechanics are incompetent rip-off merchants  Perhaps if they had a fuelling problem on their latest Fireblade, or the pads needed changing on their BMW R1200RS, or their CBX needs a re-shim or the carbs setting up, or their Diavel needs new layshaft bearings they might just realise that all bikes are not the same and the skill element needed is far in excess of anything that will ever have.

[Tekime]

Not totally uncommmon, and honestly it's the garages right to decide what parts they work with. I can understand if someone provides crappy aftermarket china parts, it breaks, they get hurt, ensuing law suit... unfortunately people love to sue and aside from that they just might not like dealing with 3rd party crap and all the hassle that goes with it. Unless the mechanic was a jerk about it, I'd just respect their policy and find somewhere else or DIY.

I basically do 100% of my own work but get all my parts through the local Suzuki dealer. They don't work with parts provided by the customer - I've asked. But they are also super nice, incredibly knowledgeable, and go to lengths to help me find parts even when it's a bunch of $2-3 bolts or whatever. Lost a screw from my helmet the other day and just mentioned it to them, they found an exact match in their "stash" and gave it to me for free. Totally cool in my book.

So anyway, I don't think you can let a policy like this decide if they are a bad shop or not, they do what they gotta do usually.

[The Buddha]

Remember most "reputable shops" used those famous breakaway design Chinese shims sold by K&L.
So if you took a GS twin sourced kit to a mechanic, and he used those shims - you'd be good. Not only were they parts you brought in, they also were used.
New K&L shims will have blown up your motor.

Cool.
Buddha.

[Joolstacho]

A few people are making rash assumptions in this thread, for example, some people are assuming that the parts the owner brought in are substandard. Not necessarily the case is it?
Also, some people are assuming that 'pro' repair shops always use best quality spare parts... ('scuse me whilst I have a little snigger!)
The liability 'issue' is a con job, people nowadays use this catch-all crap to disguise a multitude of sins.

There are plenty of good honest repairers out there. I'm lucky, I've been doing it as an amateur for around 40 years, my best mate is a qualified pro who's been doing it for about 30 years. I would trust my life on anything he does, but I've seen repair/service jobs come out of reputable 'main dealerships' that could be death-traps.

[prmas]

The liability 'issue' is a con job, people nowadays use this catch-all crap to disguise a multitude of sins.

Tell that to my Public Liability and Professional Indemnity Insurance Company.  P L E A S E !!!!!!!
The question is not the perceived quality of the part but the fact that I have to GUARANTEE the quality/suitability of the part.
Every individual part is identified by brand and part number on the invoice along with the price.
The hourly rate is clearly displayed along with the time taken.
There is no "Service - $350". Everything done is clearly explained on the invoice for ANYONE to see.

As a final comment on this thread, in 26 years running my own workshop I have never done "cashies".
Not only is it illegal as it cheats the government of their legal right to collect income and sales taxes, it is immoral as it gives the reciever (in this case, mechanic) an unfair advantage over honest operators. I NEVER  use trades people who offer a "cash" price. Why would I support someone who is cheating their peers when I would not do it myself.   
Everything goes through the books which are inspected by my accountants every quarter and I sleep with a clear conscience.

Macka

[phatngo]

Lads, as a 'noob', I've read this with great interest (and pleasure!). Learned heaps most importantly. I do now see the point of view of the mechanic based on some of the comments here, and in future, will find a good trusted mechanic of my own who I can go to who won't fleece me.

In the end, as I'd already bought the sprockets and chain (JT and RK XMO respectively), I bought a chainbreaker/riveting tool and, studied my Haynes manual as well as youTube, and did it myself. I'm completely new to this so it took a while, but my god was it satisfying when I took her for a ride after I'd done the work myself!

Next stop oil and filter change!

Cheers again for the advice, good to know you guys are out there for a numpty like me!

PS although the chain grinding sound has gone when pulling away in first (thankfully), there's still a little clunk like first gear is engaging. It's my first bike, and nearly 10 years old, so I'm assuming it's just what they sound like that old. Either that or I need to get my gears looked at!

[lucas]

This talk about your chain should probably be in a new thread, but have you checked the tension in your chain?  That can cause noises especially while shifting.

Start a new topic if you want to talk about it some more