Bundy project Now called lighteneing/modernization

[iamhiding]

getting there greg love projects where the vast majority of of parts are machined up. cant believe the standard rearsets w/pegs come to 2.6kg... thats f%$king nuts. i'll be curious to see how much you manage to shave from the bike. seriously though whoever ran the bike into that kind of condition needs a slap over the head     

[gregjet]

Realize I haven't posted for a while. Plenty more pics to come. I have been having trouble getting a throttle cable. Ordered on and it can broken. Emailed the supplier and he isn't replying. Forks are fiitted with new seals, bushed, YSS valve emulators and  new springs ( wrong wayy too soft supplied by YSS Australia. Won't be buying from them again)  and on. Machined down as well. Fork brace is on. New steering head bearings. They were available as over the counter item from the local bearing store which saved a fortune. Regreased with tefgel and anti-sieze compound.
New alloy centre wavey disc is on. Doing some more work on the swingarm.
Carbs are cleaned ( they were pretty good) vacuum switch removed . Not sure this last bit works but will try it. Rejetted pilots, mids and 150 mains but may go back to the 130's and check. Can't check upper jetting until bike is actually going of course.
Hel brake lines front and back . Relaced the whole front brake lever assembly as the original was stuffed. Corroded and the sight glass was cracked. Some pics next post.

[gregjet]

Edited to replace photos that PB stuffed. New regime won't allow more than 4 so a few cannot be posted.OK here are some pics so far.
Starter motor cover replacement. New is aluminium:

Front brake. Remember the old one is actually lighter than it should be as it is so worn:

removed extra metal on the shoulder of the reluctor shaft:

Metal removed fron oil vent cover and suck bolt heads:

New shortened muffler and stainless hanger . Original passenger peg/exhaust mount has been removed both sides:

Front end. New Hel cable, new mastercyl, rebuilt revalved resprung forks. New frok brace. Redone steerer and top triple clamp structure:

Finished carbon/aluminium fork brace:
( deleted photo)

[gregjet]

More pics

Stuffed steerer bearings. Fair enough as the frame had done over 50000km:

Suzuki 650 rear shock ( us calls them Katanas). Cleaned and repainted with alloy collets made and machined adjuster:

YSS fork valve emulators and the cups I made:

New lighter aluminium spring spacers and internal preload adjusters:

[gregjet]

Removed the fake top triple clamp and barmounts. Made new barmounts. Ignore the bars as I still haven't decided for certain what's going on :

[gregjet]

Both side covers had scrape damage. I machined then smooth and made carbon/innegra covers and the reluctor cover I added a Hidensity nylon slider to help protect it:
Side cover Right:

[gregjet]

Finally got back to the project.
Made a carbon/innegra battery and electrical box and chucked the stock rear mudguard and made a high carbon/innegra tail light and license plate mount and guard.

Wired in the Acewell speedo/tacho. Interesting is that the 2005 GS500 does not have a usual blinker wiring. when I wired in the new instrument the blinkers would work on the right but not the left??? Checked the wiring diagram and the blinkers use a 2 wire blinker switching that runs on a diferential voltage between the left and right. Works fine with an incandsecnt bulb but the led will only work in one direction of course ( it is a diode after all). Solved it by leaching voltage off the actual blinker wires. The panel indicator LED draws such a tiny current the blinkers don't notice.
Added a LED oil light as well. Used the Acewell connectors to the stock wiring.
Speedo connection is not yet wired and connected up yet, as I have to figure whether to mount it front or back and how.
I will do a write up on the Acewell wiring if anyone is interested with the wiring I used.

Big difference in weight between the ols gauges and the new, especially on the forks.

Acewell wiring loom

Acewell with all the pretty lights lit up.

Acewell in position on the F fairing

Battery/electricals box and rear guard:

Making some hose reducers to get around the ridiculous different size ends on the fuel hoses. I can use two different hose sizes and not have to buy the Suzy propriety different end ones. I can get better quality hose as well.

[Endopotential]

Great project!

Why even bother buying a bike???

With your terrific machining skills, you could have CNC'd a whole custom bike for yourself! 

[gregjet]

A project mainly to see where improvements can be made to an older design. My machine skills are a bit...er...amateur. Lathe is not a high ticket item and I have trouble getting decent tool bits.
Built a few "buckets" when I was racing. Just like tinkering.
But the whole point of project threads is so people can see what they might be able to do or improve on.
Still wish there was some way to get it fuel injected.

[gregjet]

Finally got around to painting the upper fairing, tank and rear cowl. Got them on. Redid the aweful fuel lines . Now it won't run or idle properly and it did before I put the airbox and tank on. So now I have to take it all apart and check everything again (of course!).
Still building the wrecked lower fairing . Fibreglass, innegra and carbon epoxy. Extended the bottom rear pan ( guess that's just habit from building racing ones cause they have to have a belly pan).

Taken with my phone so the pics suck a bit.


This shows the colour a bit better. The washed out bright bits are from the reflective tape and the flash.

[ShowBizWolf]

Really like that blue color    and I'm looking forward to seeing the fairings when done!

[peteGS]

Yup, love the colour combo, looking great!

[gregjet]

Had it from a race bike a few years ago. It just happens to be a not too far for Maverick Vinales Suzuki colour so I figured it wasn't too bad a use for it.
Got it together enough to run and the left cyl is running over 100deg C hotter than the right so I have a problem. Balanced the carbs and still the same. Checked the right spark plug and it is sparking ( although pretty pathetic) . Might try the stick coils I bought . Right one first to see if it improves.

[mr72]

Got it together enough to run and the left cyl is running over 100deg C hotter than the right so I have a problem.

That's a very interesting troubleshooting technique. 

Hopefully it's ignition, but while you're in there it might pay to do a compression test, just in case.

[gregjet]

Did a compression test when I bought it home . It was pretty good then. It was standing for a while so possible stuck valve though, so I might do another. My comp gauge is a car one so I need to make a proper adapter so the test is less ...er...haphazard.

[mr72]

A tight intake valve could cause poor compression as well as carbon build-up on the valve seat (which is what is causing my bike to get a top end rebuild as we speak).

I'd want to check it, just for the peace of mind and to rule it out. In fact, after my current experience with an impossible to tune motorcycle, I think I'll never again buy a used bike without doing a compression test on it first.

[gregjet]

Spent most of a day on the temp difference.
Fixed ( mostly). turned out the brand new pilot jet had got clogged in the right cyl. Maybe crap in the tank? resynched the carbs. Still to redo the idle/pilot jet mix, but at both 2 and a half turns out, the IR thermometer is giving only 20degC difference at 480 deg c on the left cyl. It may get closer when I get a chance to do the mix screw again.

Otherwise I suspect valve clearance, so once the macro work on the fairing and the speedo mount is done , I will attack the valves. Quite prepared to strip the motor and do a grind if necessary. I think the rings are OK.

Fairing lower is slowly coming together . The problem with male moulds is they are always a bit bigger and getting stuff to line up , as well as requiring a lot more finish work.

[gregjet]

I have been a bit unmotivated re: project but steadily working on the lower fairing. I am at the figuring how to mount it stage ( it is a bit different from the stock lower) and was going to resin in an overlap at the top of the lower, then thought I wonder what it would look like pop rivetted tangs instead. So I did. Used 3/16 stainless steel pop rivets and 5mm thread tapped the tanges to accept the original fairing uppper bolts. I like it. Gives it an old style race look. I will clean the rivets back to unpainted when I paint the rest of the fairing so they show. Have to fair the fairing now ...ugh! Prickley time again.

Not a great photo but you get the idea:

[Mr. BIGGZ]

Great build! It's crazy how you're fabricating so many parts for the GS, the forum will definitely benefit from your skill set. That's either a whole lot of talent or you're paying a lot of money to experts working on your bike. 

I never heard of carbon/innegra but the stuff looks great. Can you explain the schematics on wiring?

"Checked the wiring diagram and the blinkers use a 2 wire blinker switching that runs on a diferential voltage between the left and right. Works fine with an incandsecnt bulb but the led will only work in one direction of course ( it is a diode after all). Solved it by leaching voltage off the actual blinker wires. The panel indicator LED draws such a tiny current the blinkers don't notice.
Added a LED oil light as well. Used the Acewell connectors to the stock wiring.
Speedo connection is not yet wired and connected up yet, as I have to figure whether to mount it front or back and how.
I will do a write up on the Acewell wiring if anyone is interested with the wiring I used."

[mr72]

Still wish there was some way to get it fuel injected.

Maybe microsquirt plus a ton of work like fabbing a manifold and sourcing throttle bodies or steal the entire system from another fuel injected twin like an ER-6n or CB500F? Or there is a kit that may work:
http://www.ecotrons.com/products/400cc_to_800cc_engine_fuel_injection_kit/

I've thought about this quite a bit. Way easier to just make the carbs work right or buy a different bike.