Diodes caught on Fire - LED issue?

[gregjet]

You can buy 12v automotive LEDS that have the appropiate resistor built in.

[Mr. BIGGZ]

A 1N4001 is rated for typical 1.0A forward current, so if you had it reversed and for whatever reason it was connected in such a way to allow 2-3x that much current (which is not much in a 12V system) then that's how it got smoked.

[EDIT: removed totally irrelevant information]

I put a post containing this in my project build.
On the later ( don't know about the earlier ones) the dash indicator light uses a differential circuit to run the singlelight for both left and right indicator. If you use a LED dash light it becomes obvious pretty quickly.
Best most reliable way is to use TWO dash indicator lights:
Disconnect wires going to the stock dash indicator.
Run a wire from each led indicator to the respective dash led ( correct tag ie +ve)
Then from the dash indicator ( -ve) to an earth.
Everything will work and you will know WHICH indicator is actually on. No need for diodes.

Gregjet & mr72 - in the voice of tattoo from Fantasy Island, "it worked! It worked!!" Since my understanding of the GS' electrical system can be compared to that of a 3 year old, here is where I am so far. I purchased 3 different LEDs and a pair of diodes from RadioShack. Following your recommendations and detailed posts, I attempted to run 2 different indicators. I wanted to avoid using diodes at all costs.

Following your informative advice, I attempted my best to comprehend the schematics and mathematical calculations, to run 2 indicators and install them in the stock turn signal indicator housing. Since I had previously cut the stock indicator wires to install diodes, I tested things behind the gauges. I had to clean up the burnt wires and remove the diodes anyway.  For the diode mod, I had cut both the Gr and Blk wires at the indicator. I connected the GR wire from the indicator back to Gr wire from the wiring harness, the way it was stock; however, I connected the black wire coming from the indicator to a ground. The Blk wire coming from the harness, I connected to the (+) end of a Radio shack Pre-wired LED with a built in resistor and (+,-) wires. The (-) end of the LED I connected to a ground.


As a result, everything worked perfect. No 4 way blinking, no fast flash, and the indicator LEDs worked for both sides. No issues at all, even though I did not use any diodes or external resistors. When using the other LEDs from RadioShack -  that did not have built in resistors - they  did not work at all, regardless of how I connected them.


So a huge THANK YOU for the guidance and clarification provided.

Now, where I can still use some guidance is what kind of LED  can I install in the stock housing? The RadioShack LED states 100 mcd and it was to dim to notice, even at night. I was able to stuff the LED and stock indicator into the stock housing; however, the RadioShack LED was barely noticeable even at night time.

Any tips on how I can install a brighter LED with a built in resistor? The LEDS I have are from SuperbrightLeds.


Thanks again, gentlemen! Your time spent helping me and others in the forums is much appreciated!

[mr72]

if it didn't work AT ALL (like no dash LEDs) with the superbrite LEDs no matter resistor or not, then either a) you had the diodes backwards or b) you fried the diodes because they require a resistor to limit current.

Reason the ones you tried are too dim is because the resistor is too big. But since it's built in, you can't fix it. You need a meter to check any of this.

Or just start over with whatever superbrite LEDs sells you specifically for automotive dashboard LEDs AND resistors if they are not integrated.

[Mr. BIGGZ]

if it didn't work AT ALL (like no dash LEDs) with the superbrite LEDs no matter resistor or not, then either a) you had the diodes backwards or b) you fried the diodes because they require a resistor to limit current.

Reason the ones you tried are too dim is because the resistor is too big. But since it's built in, you can't fix it. You need a meter to check any of this.

Or just start over with whatever superbrite LEDs sells you specifically for automotive dashboard LEDs AND resistors if they are not integrated.

Everything works great, when I select a new LED bulb I'll keep you abreast of how it looks.

[gregjet]

There are LED bulb replacements that are as good or better than the stock bulb BUT!!!! they are a bit difficult to find. Most are dim rubbish. I think Phillips ( branded) now makes equal brightness ones and I will bet there are others.I bought complete blinkers picked to be brighter than stock bulbs . I also finally found a brake/tail that is REALLY good straight plug in ( automotive store). It is getting easier and easier to find them, but still not as simple as it should be. I think there are huge amounts of the old weak leds out there that has to be sold off first.
The new Phillips tungsten element emulator headlights bulbs are excellent. They focus in standard bulb headlights properly and are way brighter. At least they are easy to find via a online search.