Painting exhaust without removal

[Darkstar]

My exhaust pipes have some rust and I'm planning to ride through the winter, so I bought some 2000F spray paint. Is it absolutely necessary to remove the pipes? I want to avoid touching the header bolts, as I'm sure they're stuck, and we all know how soft they are. I really do not want to deal with them snapping off inside. My goal is to extend the life of the exhaust, not cosmetic.

[twocool]

Use stove black...it works better and is easier to put on...no need to disassemble...and it lasts, and can be touched up easily periodically...

https://www.lehmans.com/product/stove-black-and-polish/hearth-accessories?utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase&utm_campaign=BSB&zmam=32933335&zmas=1&zmac=1&zmap=BSB&partner_id=bcbgoog&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=NB_PLA_AllProducts_GOOG&utm_term=shopping&utm_content=s0hnO4Lb2_dc|pcrid|54869971724|pkw||pmt||&&gclid=CMXq0ffBntACFU46gQodqhUGrg


Cookie

My exhaust pipes have some rust and I'm planning to ride through the winter, so I bought some 2000F spray paint. Is it absolutely necessary to remove the pipes? I want to avoid touching the header bolts, as I'm sure they're stuck, and we all know how soft they are. I really do not want to deal with them snapping off inside. My goal is to extend the life of the exhaust, not cosmetic.

[Darkstar]

great, thanks!

[Watcher]

How old is the bike?


Exhaust bolts can seize more readily than most others, but unless the bike is ancient and the bolts are rusted up I think the risk is minimal.
Heating the bolts is always a good idea.


Spray paint is not going to be feasable with the pipes on.  You won't get the good coverage you need, and it'll be difficult to prep.
If you can find the same paint in a brush on application that would be more doable.  Or just go with twocool's suggestion.

[ShowBizWolf]

When I got rid of my stock exhaust system that was incredibly rusty and rashed I was a bit nervous about the bolts too. Ugh they were really bad lookin... rusty and all... I sprayed them with PB B'laster a few times and let them soak overnight. I also ordered brand new ones and had them on hand. I was super patient and careful but I had no trouble removing them and it was a huge piece of mind to know that I'd replaced them with new ones.

That being said, if I were you I'd tackle the project the more thorough way by removing the exhaust (since you said you already bought the spray paint). Prepping the everything the right way and getting everything painted evenly (as Watcher said) is something worth the effort. BUT but but I will add this... if you soak those bolts or heat them and they refuse to budge or they start to bind up then I'd abandon the spray paint (maybe even return it) and go with twocool's suggestion.

Good luck Darkstar!!

[qcbaker]

I think your best bet is probably to remove the exhaust system before painting. That way you can ensure you get proper coverage and that all your surfaces are evenly prepped.

I'm considering doing this to my bike over the winter, but more for cosmetic reasons.

[Darkstar]

How old is the bike?

2007. I watched an old Addidasguy video and he suggests striking the wrench before turning, says it loosens the bolt like an impact wrench.

paint in a brush on application that would be more doable.

do I have to sand down to the metal before applying either the high heat enamal or stove paint?

[Darkstar]

Use stove black...

do i still have to sand down to metal and prime?

[Watcher]

Do I have to sand down to the metal before applying either the high heat enamal or stove paint?

I would say a resounding "yes".

You *can* paint over rust with some paints, but any job worth doing is worth doing right.
Aside from ensuring no contaminants are trapped under the paint, which can then bubble and otherwise ruin the paint and/or degrade the surface underneath, proper prep promotes good adhesion and finish durability.
You want no rust, no oil, no dirt, no anything.  Bare metal or scuffed up existing paint is what you want.

I'd hit it with some 150 and clean up with brake cleaner or acetone and a rag.


A 9 year old motorcycle is plenty young.  I wouldn't be afraid to go at the exhaust bolts.  Just be careful.  If you feel like they aren't budging with an appropriate amount of leverage/force, then stop and reevaluate.  You shouldn't have to stand on the wrench to turn it.
Make sure you really seat the hex key into the bolt to make sure you don't strip it.
When I did mine, I used a box end wrench as a cheater on the end of a long Allen.  No issues.  Plenty of leverage, easy to seat from the front of the motorcycle.

[Darkstar]

OK, I just finished the job. One bolt was frozen so I did the propane torch/beeswax trick and it totally worked. i love those kind of tricks. i got the exhaust off and sanded the hell out of it. cleaned, primed, two coats of paint. put it back on. will cure it tomorrow. thanks for the advice!

[Watcher]

Pics or shens!

[Joolstacho]

Assume you used High Temp paint?
And hopefully the primer was also High temp. Most High temp paints are designed to go straight onto the cleaned metal.
I had good results with 2K Single Stage satin black painted straight onto the metal.

[sledge]

......... put it back on.......

With new gaskets one hopes 

[Watcher]

......... put it back on.......

With new gaskets one hopes 

I was bad and didn't change the gaskets when I painted my exhaust.  Didn't run into any issues as a result, maybe I got lucky?

[Mr. BIGGZ]

Lets see the pics