Bike constantly bogging down around 1/2 throttle

[newbie1993]

How can I prevent them from getting stuck? And you're saying the needle is stuck low preventing the needle seat from being closed and letting more fuel in than needed or the other way around? Or do you mean the float arm itself?

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[mr72]

You need to remove the carbs, remove the float bowls and set the float height correctly using the procedure in the FAQ.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=26604.0

You don't have to use calipers for this. You can actually use a 15mm bolt head as a measurement guide.

While it's apart you inspect the float needles to ensure they don't stick, verify condition, etc. Smart money says get a new set of float needles and just replace them while it's apart.

[The Buddha]

How can I prevent them from getting stuck? And you're saying the needle is stuck low preventing the needle seat from being closed and letting more fuel in than needed or the other way around? Or do you mean the float arm itself?

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Diagnose it first. Don't just open and do stuff.
Cool.
Buddha.

[newbie1993]

You need to remove the carbs, remove the float bowls and set the float height correctly using the procedure in the FAQ.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=26604.0

You don't have to use calipers for this. You can actually use a 15mm bolt head as a measurement guide.

While it's apart you inspect the float needles to ensure they don't stick, verify condition, etc. Smart money says get a new set of float needles and just replace them while it's apart.

Links like these help a lot. I learn much better by actually seeing rather than from explanations using terminology i dont understand. Also from the link i noticed that the needles in those pictures are on a different way than mine. Does that mean mine are on wrong/backward? Or does it not make a difference? Thanks I will take the carbs out and see what's going on right after I do what Buddha suggested and recheck float heights with the tube method.

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[newbie1993]

You don't have to use calipers for this. You can actually use a 15mm bolt head as a measurement guide.

Are any of the bolt heads from this bike 15mm?



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[newbie1993]

Went and corrected float heights. Put everything together and now i have fuel coming out of this little gap

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[Watcher]

The orange line indicates the gap between the crank-case and the clutch actuator/front sprocket cover.  Fuel doesn't come out of there, and neither does oil.

The red line indicates the seam of an engine cover, specifically the stator.  Fuel doesn't come out of there, but oil might.

And the green X marks the starter cover.  No fluids at all behind that cover, just a starter...

Nothing in that image would be the source of a fuel leak aside from the big green fuel line on the left side of the image.

If the carbs are leaking somewhere it may be dripping down onto this area?

[newbie1993]

The green (or rather yellow) is the line from my fuel tank to the pet chicken. I had overflow of fuel from the upper t on the carbs. If that may cause it. But every time i press the starter button it seems like it's lightly spitting out from where the red line and the orange line meet.

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[The Buddha]

The green (or rather yellow) is the line from my fuel tank to the pet chicken. I had overflow of fuel from the upper t on the carbs. If that may cause it. But every time i press the starter button it seems like it's lightly spitting out from where the red line and the orange line meet.

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That upper T is air equalization and gas escape when if you dump the bike.
Your floats are still stuck ... that's about the only way you can spit fuel out of that T, unless gravity is acting upwards in your garage.

Cool.
Buddha.

[Arpee]

There's a couple of o'rings in the float chamber that need replacing over time:  1 is at the float needle seat.  It holds the seat in place.  If it's leaking you'll chase your tail trying to stop high float bowl levels.  The other o'ring is holding the entire float assembly in place.  You'll need to pull that assembly off and replace the o'ring there.  If either of these are dry or old, they will allow fuel into the float chamber regardless of what the floats are doing.

[newbie1993]

There's a couple of o'rings in the float chamber that need replacing over time:  1 is at the float needle seat.  It holds the seat in place.  If it's leaking you'll chase your tail trying to stop high float bowl levels.  The other o'ring is holding the entire float assembly in place.  You'll need to pull that assembly off and replace the o'ring there.  If either of these are dry or old, they will allow fuel into the float chamber regardless of what the floats are doing.

Needle seat o ring on one side is replaced. Kinda stupid i know but it was the only one that looked worn out. However the other ones that hold the floats in place need to be replaced.  definitely need replacing. Those will definitely be replaced asap

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[newbie1993]

There is gas in my oil 😑😑😑😑

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[newbie1993]

Float heights are correct still bogging down and Im pretty sure theres fuel in my oil and oil in my fuel

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[Watcher]

Oil in the fuel, not likely.

Fuel in the oil, most definitely.  Overflowing into the airbox is often mirrored by overflowing into the engine.  Liquid fuel entering the cylinders and bypass the piston rings and enter the crankcase.
With all this mess one of us should have cued in and mentioned for you to check, sorry.

The engine will not run right with gas diluted oil and may cause a potentially dangerous situation.
So long as your floats are set right (looks pretty good to me) go ahead and change the oil and filter and we'll go from there.

[newbie1993]

No worries on the cueing in. I know i ask a lot of questions. The only sad thing is that i literally just added brand new oil and a brand new oil filter. What made me realize i had fuel in my oil is after the bike would start it would run and die and then a pool of muddy looking fuel would pour out of the airbox drain hose. Would fuel in the oil mimic incorrect float heights as far as bogging down and popping from the airbox/air filter area and exhaust?

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[Watcher]

Fuel in the oil can cause excess crankcase pressure and there's a breather that connects from the valve cover to the airbox.  That could be causing the "muddy fuel" you described.

Fuel diluted oil can cause rough idle and starting issues.

[gregjet]

The only bike that I personally know gets fuel in the oil often is another Suzuki the DRZ400 ( particularly the SM model).
Had it happen twice before I found the culprit ( online forum).
In THAT bike the seat of the fuel needle/seat control valve has an O ring around the outside that shrinks and no longer seals the OUTSIDE of it so the fuel flows straight around the outside.
Now, despite the number of times I have had the GS500 carbs off , I can't remember if it has the same push in O ring seal setup on the needle and seat. If it does That may be the culprit.
The DRZ has similiar CVcv carbs to the GS.

[newbie1993]

The bike took a little while to start but when it did start it took a little throttle to get it started. Idled high and Revved a couple times but then she bogged down and died and then "muddy fuel" poured out of the airbox drain hose. This is just me describing the situation a little more so I make sure Im taking steps in the right direction to get everything fixed. Will be picking up new oil and a new oil filter tomorrow and give an update after I see how everything goes after that.

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[Watcher]

If you are still trying to tinker with fuel diluted oil you are doing more harm than good.

Stop doing anything until you change the oil.

All manner of bad things can happen when the oil is no longer lubricating and when you have a combustible in the crankcase.

[newbie1993]

UPDATE.
Oil and filter replaced both brand new.
Steady idle at 1.2k rpm. Easy startup after Oil change. No bogging down while giving throttle. Everything seems to be alright. Will update after test ride.

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