My new 2011 GS500F

[froidy]

Also, do I have to undo this part where the cable goes into the engine just for lever replacement? I'm not replacing the cable but Adidasguy mentions it in his video. Cheers all.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[qcbaker]

You do not have to undo the clutch cable on the engine end. However, loosening the cable at all points will make the lever replacement a little easier, since it will be slack when you try to re-insert the cable end into the lever. I did not loosen it when I did my levers and it turned out fine, but it might make your life easier. Plus, it will force you to do a clutch adjustment which is never a bad thing.

Another tip: be sure that when removing the lever you remove the clutch safety switch from the underside of the assembly. It's easy to miss and it can become tempting to simply rip the lever out, but damaging this switch can make your bike fail to start.

[froidy]

Thanks for the help! I was beginning to think nobody was going to reply. I probably should have started a new thread on it
I did see the mention of the clutch switch. So to get the switch out do I have to undo that little JIS screw that I posted a few pics back? There is also some kind of plug going into it as well from the front. I'll be right once my Haynes manual gets here! Appreciate it QC

[sledge]

Grind a mm or so off the tip of a standard Phillips.

It won't turn it into a JIS but it will fit JIS heads a lot better.

[user11235813]

Nice bike, seeing as you are going mod mad, you might like these bar back risers, they are not as cheap as some of the more milled ones available but they have the best finish and look really good on the GS. The OEM cables will accomodate these, but you might want to put a HEL brake line on the front because they look much nicer than the thick chunky OEM ones, plus you'll never need to replace them.

Also not sure what you think of the silver muffler but I put some masking tape on the top part of mine to keep it silver and sprayed the rest with black muffler paint as my bike is dark grey and it looks much better than the silver IMHO.

edit: forgot barback riser link, from W.A. https://www.motorradgarage.com.au/handlebar-riser-barbacks-for-22mm-bars

[froidy]

Grind a mm or so off the tip of a standard Phillips.

It won't turn it into a JIS but it will fit JIS heads a lot better.

Thanks for the tip! Going to give this a go

[froidy]

Nice bike, seeing as you are going mod mad, you might like these bar back risers, they are not as cheap as some of the more milled ones available but they have the best finish and look really good on the GS. The OEM cables will accomodate these, but you might want to put a HEL brake line on the front because they look much nicer than the thick chunky OEM ones, plus you'll never need to replace them.

Also not sure what you think of the silver muffler but I put some masking tape on the top part of mine to keep it silver and sprayed the rest with black muffler paint as my bike is dark grey and it looks much better than the silver IMHO.

edit: forgot barback riser link, from W.A. https://www.motorradgarage.com.au/handlebar-riser-barbacks-for-22mm-bars

Haha, they look pretty cool! So far though I have not felt the need to have the bars any higher but I'll see how I get on over the next couple of months. Down the track probably will be braided lines also. What are peoples opinions of frame sliders and drill vs no drill style. Thinking of getting some R&G ones that you have to drill the fairing.

[qcbaker]

Haha, they look pretty cool! So far though I have not felt the need to have the bars any higher but I'll see how I get on over the next couple of months. Down the track probably will be braided lines also. What are peoples opinions of frame sliders and drill vs no drill style. Thinking of getting some R&G ones that you have to drill the fairing.

The no-cut ones will be weaker, because of the mounting bracket they use to move the slider. The ones that require the fairings to be drilled mount directly into the frame, so they will be less likely to bend during a crash. The no cut ones might work at low speed or if the bike simply tips over, but if you're looking for serious protection, they R&G ones will probably serve you better.

[froidy]

Haha, they look pretty cool! So far though I have not felt the need to have the bars any higher but I'll see how I get on over the next couple of months. Down the track probably will be braided lines also. What are peoples opinions of frame sliders and drill vs no drill style. Thinking of getting some R&G ones that you have to drill the fairing.

The no-cut ones will be weaker, because of the mounting bracket they use to move the slider. The ones that require the fairings to be drilled mount directly into the frame, so they will be less likely to bend during a crash. The no cut ones might work at low speed or if the bike simply tips over, but if you're looking for serious protection, they R&G ones will probably serve you better.

Thanks QC. Pretty much confirmed what I thought I'll go the R&G ones. Will post here when I get them installed. Cheers!

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk