Suzuki gs500 rear wheel swap

[Danpasion]

I have a 2001 Suzuki GS500 that I picked up as project. Right now I'm trying to do the rear wheel katana swap. So I bought a 2002 katana rear rim and 160/60zr17 Dunlop sport max q3 tire. I thought it was gonna be a straight forward swap after shimming out the sprocket but I was wrong. The chain is touching the tire even after 3/2.4mm washers. Any ideas or suggestion.

[Sk3383]

Danpasion,

I don't have any ideas or suggestions, however I am also co soldering this upgrade and I was curious if/how you were able to resolve the issue with the chain?

Regards,
Shawn

[gregjet]

In standard chain position the chain will rub on and side vibration with a 150/60 in. I have made nylon guides to stop it being able to move transversly as far as the tyre. A 160 will be pretty much right beside the tyre. Any side slop will chew the tyre.
the rear is pretty easy to move outboard but still haven't found a way to move the CS sprocket out because of the stupid and marginally safe circlip method of attachment. My thoughts were to remove the collar around the countershaft and replace it with one I can drill and tap a couple of holes to bolt the sprocket to. But I can't seem to figure out how to remove the collar.

[J_Walker]

the collar on the transmission side?

[The Buddha]

In standard chain position the chain will rub on and side vibration with a 150/60 in. I have made nylon guides to stop it being able to move transversly as far as the tyre. A 160 will be pretty much right beside the tyre. Any side slop will chew the tyre.
the rear is pretty easy to move outboard but still haven't found a way to move the CS sprocket out because of the stupid and marginally safe circlip method of attachment. My thoughts were to remove the collar around the countershaft and replace it with one I can drill and tap a couple of holes to bolt the sprocket to. But I can't seem to figure out how to remove the collar.

You're trying to drill and tap the countershaft ? I need to see that, cos I suspect that thing is hardened. In any case it is steel so you're not gonna have an easy time anyway even if itsn't. But yea dumb a$$ design, that and the clutch push rod right in front of it. This bike is almost designed to cause cascading failure looks like, you lose 1 thing it will take a few other things with it.

Cool.
Buddha.

[gregjet]

From the exploded diagrams I have seen of the countershaft , it appears that the thick piece behind the CS sprocket is a separate collar. I was trying to get it off without splitting the cases, but I guess it is lipped to the inside. I can't believe the CS shaft bearing is THAT big internal diameter. If it is press fitted it could be drilled and tapped as I am guessing it won't be surfaced hardened ( at least not the vertical face).
A centre drilling might work but tapping it may be a problem ( brittle or just plain hard). I have seen a welded nut end but I suspect a fair bit of weakening of the shaft from the weld shock.
I still have a partially formed idea of a collar to go over the collar and drill and tap that. That could be help on by grubscrews on to the collar. The rotational load is still taken by the splines , so it doesn't have to be strong ( well no stronger than the existing circlip)