lets play a "what bearing was it" game!

[J_Walker]

I removed all 3 of my stuck bolts today, and got the camshaft that was a little scuffed polished. I used a good flat file to knock down the high parts, stopping to reapply ink to check for high and low and neutral spots. then polished up the surface. I'm ordering two different bearing sizes, one that it's suppose to be. and then the next size up. just encase its out of spec from the polishing process. pic related, the "bad" side of the bearing in the previous picture.



polished lobe, this is as good as its gonna get I believe, I'm gonna shoot for re-using it. because a new one is too expensive, not much better on the used market. and buying a new engine with just equally as questionable possible issues. + don't have the money right now to buy a new engine. At least with new bearings, and a proper break in period everything should fall into place just fine, the surface wasn't scored super badly, enough where I could feel the distortion in the metal with my finger though.

Dunno what scored the surface, my swiss file had a rough time [new sharp file btw] biting into the steel on the camshaft... I'm replacing all the bearings on the camshaft row. but none of the others as they look fine to me.

[ajensen]

Be sure to measure the crank journal with a micrometer to make sure the journal is round. Also, I would find a good used connecting to put in place of the old one. Keep up the good work.

[J_Walker]

the old connecting rod looks fine, there was not scoring on it at all. didn't even look like it got damaged. ill see about measuring em.

[ajensen]

Yes--make sure the rod is round and that the rod is not discolored from excessive heat. My knowledge is general and from old motorcycles, so maybe some of the other members of the forum can be more insightful. No matter what, I really appreciate skill and ambition.

[J_Walker]

taking the crankshaft to a machinist tomorrow to have it measured by him, and if at possible re-ground. Dunno how much can be done with a range of 0.024mm [to keep the journal in spec] assuming it was over sized to begin with!

I'm just really worried its too far gone.

[J_Walker]

Crankshaft is poo'd. my only hope is finding a thicker odd-ball sized bearing. it could be re-ground then. I need .5mm over sized from the stock sizes and the machinist said he could do it. so, gonna cut my losses.


WHO NEEDS GS PARTS?!

[The Buddha]

Crankshaft is poo'd. my only hope is finding a thicker odd-ball sized bearing. it could be re-ground then. I need .5mm over sized from the stock sizes and the machinist said he could do it. so, gonna cut my losses.


WHO NEEDS GS PARTS?!

There was a place in Nascar country that was spraying a moly coating on bearings and that coating would take up oil and result in a lot lower wear and friction.
I never used them but you could look up and call HM Elliot powder coatings in Mooresville NC. A correct bearing with coating could take up the gap and keep oil film which is what that moly coating supposed to do anyway.
Cool.
Buddha.

[J_Walker]

meh, I've already dropped close to 700 dollars on this rebuild alone, not including all the new stuff I've bought into it. time to cut my losses. I said I wasn't gonna spend more then another 200 dollars to fix this lower end problem. GS isn't worth the money I've put into it. and I'm not gonna get  what I put in back, I'll try to get something back however.

[J_Walker]

WHEN YOU BUY MAIN BEARINGS NOTE: each "bearing" you're only getting one half! [dumb I know, just found that out as almost two week old parts rolled in today.] so you need to order 12 main bearings, and 4 camshaft bearings. from bikebandit it would total up to $153.84.

SUZUKI WHY IS IT CHEAPER TO BUY USED MOTOR THEN TO REBUILD SIMPLE SH-T?! ESPECIALLY DISPOSABLE PARTS