carb starvation issue

[user11235813]

Ok it has taken a while but I now have the carbs out to sort out what feels like a fuel starvation issue. All the vacuum lines seem good except for a plug circled in pink on one of the carbs. It is badly cracked and I was wondering if this was leaking whether it is a likely culprit. Also what would the solenoid be for that is attached to the carbs at the bottom with all the vacuum tubes coming into it, and also what is the other electrical component attached to the side of the carb?

thx

[J_Walker]

that thing circled in pink would cause a pretty nasty vacuum leak, I filled mine with 5 minute JB weld. [was too lazy to wait 24 hours for a full cure on normal JB.]

[user11235813]

Yeah thanks I figured as such was thinking of permanently welding it but then I'd not be able to balance the carbs. I've got them off and there does appear to be some crud in the jets, hard to tell. I have to wait till the warehouses open again to for some spare parts. I don't want to reuse the float bowl gaskets although they don't look too bad. I'll report back when I get it all cleaned and plugged.

[Endopotential]

While you're at it, just get rid of those vacuum lines going to the two white discs at the top of the carbs.  I got rid of my entire PAIR system just to reduce potential points of leak, and the bike still runs fine.

[user11235813]

Hi Endo,

I was wondering what all that frikken tubing was and if it was necessary.

below are some close ups of the plumbing.

Can you be more specific about what can be removed and what is the effect. I'm particularly wondering about the two electrical bits attached, one appears to be linked to the butterfly spindle, and the other appears to be a solenoid of some kind. It's the solenoid I'm particularly curious about


If the tubes are removed from the white plastic part would that then be plugged?

I am also wondering how to get the jet needle out. I have the slide removed and unlike the earlier model carbs with 2 jets which apparently you just need to tip upside down, I am unable to work out how to get this needle out so I can adjust the spacer on it. I can't see any clip that is holding it in like other carbs I've seen it's a bit of a puzzle.

[J_Walker]

I am also wondering how to get the jet needle out. I have the slide removed and unlike the earlier model carbs with 2 jets which apparently you just need to tip upside down, I am unable to work out how to get this needle out so I can adjust the spacer on it. I can't see any clip that is holding it in like other carbs I've seen it's a bit of a puzzle.

to get the needle out, use a pair of pliers [my leathermen wave works good for this] to grab a hold of the white plastic nib. and just pull straight back on it, its held in there with a tiny o-ring that gets stuck on a little plastic nib in the body. it's what holds it in there, Try twisting a little bit as you pull back as not to have it come flying out, there's a little spring right under the white cap you DO NOT wanna lose.

ill try to get to explaining what tubes aren't needed later, if not someone else probably will before I get around too it.

[user11235813]

OK thanks, yeah that all seems good I was wondering what holds it in. I need to wait till after the holidays to get some new float bowl gaskets and some hex head bolts anyway. Also I was thinking of putting a new 140 main jet up from the standard 130, all stock muffler and airbox, but I thought it can't hurt.

At least all the vacuum tubes look in good condition and there appears to be no pinholes or anything in the diaphragms. I'm just a bit worried about how aggressive I can be with some carb cleaner and compressed air, there doesn't appear to be too much grunge. I was hoping that if some carb cleaner gets onto some rubber bits that blowing it off quickly will not damage them.

[Watcher]

Carb cleaner evaporates lightning fast as it is, I think the stuff pretty much does it's job on contact.

Kerosene would be a much safer product to use.

[Suzuki Stevo]

Also I was thinking of putting a new 140 main jet up from the standard 130, all stock muffler and airbox, but I thought it can't hurt.

#140 Main Jet is too rich for a stock bike IMHO, I went #20 Pilots and #132.5 Mains on my Bone Stock F.

[user11235813]

@Watcher, I'll use kero then near the rubber bits.

@stevo, I guess it's the clip on the needle that it most in need of adjustment. It is currently idling good with the mix at 3 turns out.

What I am most puzzled about is the jet that appears to be under the mid jet that I can't access.

See the image below, I have removed the 60 jet and you can see there's another brass plug with a hole in it underneath which I cannot access. Should I just poke some fine wire in there and a squirt of some solvent?

[The Buddha]

That brass plus - you can chase it with those welding nozzle cleaner things or it looks like its all pretty clean anyway, you should be fine. The jets clog faster than the holes higher up.
I see lots of clogged pilots, but never see a clogged air mix screw passage. Higher up and more convoluted fuel passages don't clog that easy.
Cool.
Buddha.