Is the safety-wire job proper?

[Darkstar]

After cleaning the rust off my output shaft, I slid the new front sprocket on. Either the OEM replacement is a hair larger, or I removed a but of girth with the rust. I know 1-2mm play at the tooth end is by design, but I'm getting about 3. Luckily, my safety wire fits perfectly behind the new circlip. This put the sprocket right into the grooves. And this means the sprocket has absolutely no play. Knowing chain alignment moves a bit over 500 miles, is this setup safe?

[The Buddha]

You safety wired the sprocket on well - Do you like walking
I hear chicks find walking with a helmet and riding leathers a huge turn on !!!
Cool.
Buddha.

[Darkstar]

You safety wired the sprocket on well - Do you like walking
I hear chicks find walking with a helmet and riding leathers a huge turn on !!!
Cool.
Buddha.

Thanks man. I'll pull the wire off.
I hadn't expected that much play to be normal.

[The Buddha]

You safety wired the sprocket on well - Do you like walking
I hear chicks find walking with a helmet and riding leathers a huge turn on !!!
Cool.
Buddha.

Thanks man. I'll pull the wire off.
I hadn't expected that much play to be normal.

Dude - I'd like to know what and how you wire tied. Don't pull nothing off on my comment, but really, I'd not wire tie anything on any bike - but that's just me.
Cool.
Buddha.

[Watcher]

I'd be worried about the wire possibly coming loose and getting picked up by the chain.

Why not measure the wire with a caliper/micrometer and find/make a shim instead?

[Darkstar]

I'd like to know what and how you wire tied.

1. Install new sprocket with shoulder facing in, install new circlip into groove
2. Loop 1/32" stainless steel safety wire between circlip and sprocket
3. Clamp and twist using this safety plier wire:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJ3LMS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's a video showing how much play there is without the wire in place. Do we really need this much for chain self-alignment Buddha? I trust your judgement, and I appreciate your feedback----> https://youtu.be/cw28RCDtBEk

[Suzuki Stevo]

Lube the splines also...

This...


Leads to this...


And potentially this...

[Darkstar]

Lube the splines also...

Yep, I use ACF50

[The Buddha]

That safety wire as a "spacer" wont cut it if you put it inside the circlip. It would be better installed outside the circlip.
Please don't weld it on.
And this is a really really crappy design, along with the clutch push rod running left to right just in front of it.
Cool.
Buddha.

[Darkstar]

That safety wire as a "spacer" wont cut it if you put it inside the circlip

Thanks man. I did a lot of reading on both this and circlips last night, so I feel confident it'll stay in place. You must be relieved to hear that the chicks won't see me walking home in my leather now. Here are some notes from what I learned, for other folks who end up at this thread:

Due to the die punch process when making cicrclips, they have both a radius and flat side. Best way to install is with flat side against the work piece that's pushing force, ie the sprocket side. This leaves the radius side pointing outwards. If you have it the other way around, the flat bottom could bite in on the opposite side and expand, fail. When measuring my old circlip with micrometer, I found that the internal radius had worn. In addition, knowing my output shaft had also worn from rust, the spec for this part from GS SM is no longer valid. I realized this when I put the size they spec'd, and it was loose enough to rotate using my finger. So I ended up buying a full set of clips (only $10.00). With the shaft wear, I had to step down one size.