Key on but no power to bike (HELP)

[clayton25]

A few weeks back I was riding my 08 500f around after not being able to for a while(Midwest winters). Bike started up great, but while I was riding to Walmart, it started sputtering and even died once. However, it started up fine so I went on with the trip. Anyways, when I came back out from Walmart I turned the key on, and nothing. No lights, no indicators, nothing.
Checked the main fuse, and had the Walmart department check the battery (although it was brand new) and it tested out fine and there wasn't any corrosion around. Because of that, I assumed the problem was the ignition switch itself. Today, I finally got my brand new ignition in the mail connected it, and STILL NOTHING.
What should I be looking for now?? I really don't want to take it into a shop and have to give up an arm and a leg to get it fixed, but I'm starting to get to that point.
All help would be appreciated at this point.

Thanks in advance!

[Joolstacho]

Examine the main power feed wire to the ignition switch, - I had one that from the outside looked good, but it had been pinched by the lower yoke steering stop and was completely broken even though the outer sheathing looked fine.

[clayton25]

Updated. Not sure if this helps, but the bike tries to start when I put a screwdriver to both terminals on the solenoid.

I don't have access to a lot of tools, but I have enough to take it apart and I have a multimeter. What're some tips for checking the wiring to spot any issues there? I'm not very familiar with this sort of stuff.

[gregjet]

Check all the main earths

[clayton25]

Where are these located, and what exactly do you mean by "check"? Am I looking for specific voltage, resistance, or just looking for corrosion?

[clayton25]

UPDATE: I've checked the battery with both the key on and off, getting the same reading (about 12.8 volts). Also checked continuity on the ignition wiring from battery and it's reading kinda weird. 3/4 Pin's would give me weird readings jumping from .5-2 or 3 ohms . Could this be where the issue is? My guess is it should read out at 0 ohm.

Following this hunch I pulled the tape off the wires and everything looks ok. No cuts, tears, crimps, or signs of burning.

I'm stumped

[gregjet]

If you are getting 12V between the +ve and all sorts of places that you should, check the eartn side. Check resistance between the -ve terminal and the bike chassis in various places ( ie should be around 0ohms) and that all the -sides ( earth sides) are continuous with the -ve side of the battery.
The fact that the battery will kick the starter when you short it seems to indicate you battery is OK and changing the main ignition switch hopefully means it isn't the switch.
My circuit diagram shows the 08 has two main earth circuits. One straight to ground ( the big black wire from -ve terminal to chassis)) and one using the black/white wire set, which does pretty much every other switched component..  The diagram also shows that black /white set has a connector that disconnects all of the black white set. Worth checking to see that is connected properly. The diagram doesn't show the connector colour nor config nor distance from the battery , so you are going to have to trace back along the earth wire. If that connector or wire is open circuit, it will give the symtoms described, as the starter uses the chassis earth only and so does the starter itself so are uneffected by the black/white circuit.

[Bo bates]

Hi I've got the same problem I've put a new loom on changed the relays by passed stand switch clutch switch still no joy did you sort yours out ?  Any help would be appreciated thanks. 

[Bo bates]

Starter selanoid/relay.  Brought a cheep one of eBay didn't work after a lot of faffing about I put a second hand one on and bingo starts bang on. 

[gregjet]

Starter relay shouldn't effect the light circuit not working. You must have connected or reconnected or bumped something. It's earth goes to the same earth B/W set though.