New user/rider Probably old questions

[TheRealScradley]

Hey there guys!

I am new to the forum, and I am also new to riding. I am 25 years old, and I live in New Brunswick, Canada. I took my MSC this spring and not even 2 days after completion I had purchased a 2005 GS500F, I have an embarrassingly limited mechanical knowledge, so please excuse some questions that may come across as silly. 

I have some maintenance that I will be doing in the coming few days (New chain and Sprockets), wondering if there is any advice prior to me tackling this job. I have a couple friends with me acting in as "supervisors" if you will, that have far more mechanical knowledge than me. I am sticking with stock tooth count, I was considering using a master link opposed to riveting the soft link in would this cause any major issues?

Another question I have is, I noticed a small oil leak on the left side of the bottom of the engine where the oil cooler meets/bolts to the engine. Could this just be an O-ring issue or should I have done a bit more research prior to actually dropping the cash. I guess since I am here I have been wondering about seating, it seems the stock seat is a little uncomfortable, are there any inserts or ways to make riding long distances a bit more comfortable on the butt haha.

I appreciate any feedback, and once I start the work I will get some pictures and post them for your viewing pleasure!

Scradley

[Toner]

Hey there guys!

I am new to the forum, and I am also new to riding. I am 25 years old, and I live in New Brunswick, Canada. I took my MSC this spring and not even 2 days after completion I had purchased a 2005 GS500F, I have an embarrassingly limited mechanical knowledge, so please excuse some questions that may come across as silly. 

I have some maintenance that I will be doing in the coming few days (New chain and Sprockets), wondering if there is any advice prior to me tackling this job. I have a couple friends with me acting in as "supervisors" if you will, that have far more mechanical knowledge than me. I am sticking with stock tooth count, I was considering using a master link opposed to riveting the soft link in would this cause any major issues?

Another question I have is, I noticed a small oil leak on the left side of the bottom of the engine where the oil cooler meets/bolts to the engine. Could this just be an O-ring issue or should I have done a bit more research prior to actually dropping the cash. I guess since I am here I have been wondering about seating, it seems the stock seat is a little uncomfortable, are there any inserts or ways to make riding long distances a bit more comfortable on the butt haha.

I appreciate any feedback, and once I start the work I will get some pictures and post them for your viewing pleasure!

Scradley

Hey Scradely, I've never put on a new chain and sprocket myself but I think you might be wise to look into getting a chain cut and rivet tool if you want to get the new chain on with no stress. It is designed to rivet the master link perfectly.

You are also going to need to align your rear wheel so that it is straight when you put it back on.
Loads of suggestions about how to do that but the best way I like to do it is with a laser alignment tool but they are expensive. 

When you take your rear wheel off, make sure you remember what order all the things that come off the axle bolt go on and in which direction.
A lot of stuff will fall off when you take the wheel off. Put them all back on the axel bolt in their proper order while you are changing the sprocket.
Otherwise you can look up the parts fiche to check.
Can be tricky to get the rear wheel back on but if you have friends to help you lift it so you can slide the axle bolt in, should be fine, other wise you might need a bit of wood to rest the wheel on that is the right size to lift the wheel up.
You are also going to need a torque wrench if you don't have one.
You might decide it is cheaper to get a shop to do it but then once you have the tools, you'll be able to do it again.
You should get the Haynes manual if you don't already have one too.
It'll give you all the torque specs for all the nuts on your bike and everything else.

Not sure where the oil leak might be coming from. Can you take a pic?
Good method to find where it is coming from if you cannot figure it out is use talcum powder or something similar. Could be just an o-ring or gasket issue though.

As for your seat, I use a mesh seat cover and it's pretty comfortable. It also stops you getting a soggy arse if it's been raining.



You can find them on ebay if you search for mesh seat cover motorcycle or something. I had an old one I used on a Honda ANF 125 and it fit the GS. I mention that because these mesh covers are popular in Asia and so is the Honda ANF which they call the Honda Wave. In Europe it is called the Innova. So if you find one that says it fits that bike, you'll know it fits the GS500.

[sledge]

Masterlinks?
They are fine, convenient and easy to fit. However if it should break.....You will wish you had gone with something else!!

I had one break on me, it was back in 1985. Only one because after that I refused to use them. I decided the slight inconvenience of permanently jointing the chain was far outweighed by the massive (and expensive) inconvenience of being stranded over 200 miles from home on a rainy Sunday evening with a bike loaded with luggage and camping gear!
Your bike, your choice 

I think your oil leak may be down to the crush washers that seal the banjo and banjo bolt at the end of the oil line to the block. There are two one either side of the banjo . Try nipping the bolt up very gently and see if it improves.

Part no for the crush washers is 0916814012A00 but you might find something at an auto parts store that will fit.

[TheRealScradley]

Just going from memory, since I am at work and not near the bike, I tried to capture where it looks like its leaking from, I will post a picture tomorrow when I get home. My buddies assume it is probably just an Oring, so figured I would ask the Pros.

Toner, thanks so much for all the detailed info, I will make sure to review it before I dig into working on the bike!

Cheers Lads!

[Watcher]

You may need a chain cut/rivet tool regardless, as most chains do not come "to length" for most applications.
I don't recall what the GS takes, but most chains come 120 links and my Ducati is a 100 link system so I had to cut out 20.

Riveting a proper master link isn't a big deal, and it's gauranteed secure.  The clip ones are convenient, until they aren't.  Lots of people carry extra clip-style masters just in case.
But since the tool to shorten the chain also rivets the master I don't know why most people even bother with the clip style ones.
I guess they make sense if you have a vehicle you change gearing on fairly often, so you can detach the chain, change the sprockets, then reattach the chain, but that changes chain length...

Toner covered most of what you'll need but to make it more concise:
Basic hand tools (sockets, etc)
A chain cut/rivet tool
A chain alignment tool
Torque wrench
Snap-ring pliers
*An angle-grinder only if you don't want to screw around with the chain that's on there with too much effort.*


Advice:
Go slow, follow the directions on the chain tool, measure twice and cut once, make sure to use the proper punch-out/riveting pin, have some confidence, keep your work area clean and organized so you don't lose any nuts/bolts, and clean off the factory chain packing grease and use your preferred chain lube before you ride.

[Endopotential]

Hey Scradley, welcome to the forum.  Tons of great people with great experience and advice here.

I believe the oil cooler system sits below the filter.

If what you circled is truly where the leak is, that's actually the cover for the oil filter.  I had the same issue, and it turned out to be the rubber gasket.  That should come with any new filter you buy.

But be careful with those 3 little acorn nuts - the studs that hold the oil cover are notoriously weak, and there are dozens of threads here about them snapping off.  The GS is a fun little bike but many of the studs / bolts are made of a special cheesium alloy...

[Toner]

You may need a chain cut/rivet tool regardless, as most chains do not come "to length" for most applications.
I don't recall what the GS takes, but most chains come 120 links and my Ducati is a 100 link system so I had to cut out 20.

Riveting a proper master link isn't a big deal, and it's gauranteed secure.  The clip ones are convenient, until they aren't.  Lots of people carry extra clip-style masters just in case.
But since the tool to shorten the chain also rivets the master I don't know why most people even bother with the clip style ones.
I guess they make sense if you have a vehicle you change gearing on fairly often, so you can detach the chain, change the sprockets, then reattach the chain, but that changes chain length...

Toner covered most of what you'll need but to make it more concise:
Basic hand tools (sockets, etc)
A chain cut/rivet tool
A chain alignment tool
Torque wrench
Snap-ring pliers
*An angle-grinder only if you don't want to screw around with the chain that's on there with too much effort.*


Advice:
Go slow, follow the directions on the chain tool, measure twice and cut once, make sure to use the proper punch-out/riveting pin, have some confidence, keep your work area clean and organized so you don't lose any nuts/bolts, and clean off the factory chain packing grease and use your preferred chain lube before you ride.

nice one, I forgot the the cirque-ring pliers for the front sprocket.

[user11235813]

@TheRealScradley

it seems the stock seat is a little uncomfortable, are there any inserts or ways to make riding long distances a bit more comfortable on the butt haha.

I went down to have my seat remodelled here http://custommotorcycleseats.com.au and he convinced me that gel inserts are not the way to go. In fact he has gel inserts oozing all over his workshop that he has removed from stock bikes. Bill points out logically that the problem is not padding but how it fits to the curve of your ass. The GS has a seat like a plank so you get all the pressure on one point. Instead of padding I instead went with having it reshaped to fit me. You can see that it's still high on the sides but now it is scooped out better and that the pressure is not located at a single point. It's still not the most comfortable seat but it is a big big improvement. it was not cheap to do about $180 AUD but he spent a couple of hours getting it right and I can come back for some fine adjustment. I'm pretty happy with the improvement.

https://youtu.be/H7QV5GaiBFc