Rear brake travel?

[Kookas]

I've bled my rear brakes finally after ages, and replaced the pads.

No seals or nipple replacement, turns out it's the same deal as the front caliper, lots of "false parts" but no actual parts support. The parts that say they're for the caliper actually aren't and don't fit correctly.

So I kept the old ones for now, they looked fine anyway. Was already looking at the SV650's front caliper, but now it looks like I'm going to have to find a suitable new rear eventually, too. Anyone know of a more popular bike - or maybe just one that didn't go through so many calipers during its production - with a compatible rear caliper?

Anyway, after doing this stuff the rear brake still seems to have about an inch of play before the brake light comes on and I feel brake engagement.

The fact that the brake lights do come on at about the same point in the travel suggests this is actually just normal. If so, is there any way to tighten things up a bit?

If not, no bubbles are coming from the bleeder and there's enough fluid in the reservoir.

That said, the hose isn't OEM, it's an aftermarket stainless job, and it does do a suspicious little loop at the cylinder from presumably being too long.

I didn't fit it, it came with the bike. Funnily enough, the much more important front brake still had the old rubber OEM hose, which I've since replaced with a stainless as well.

[max]

My rear brake has about the same ~20mm of play before engagement. You can change the pedal height but free-play doesn't seem to change. It'd be great to hear if there's a method for this that I've missed too.

The OEM rear hose actually has the 'suspicious loop' too, but no idea why.

[Kookas]

My rear brake has about the same ~20mm of play before engagement. You can change the pedal height but free-play doesn't seem to change. It'd be great to hear if there's a method for this that I've missed too.

The OEM rear hose actually has the 'suspicious loop' too, but no idea why.

I went and had a quick look. It looks like there's a threaded bolt that goes into the piston, so perhaps if you loosened that bolt, it would push the piston in more in the default position and reduce the play.

It also looked like the brake lever was attached to the little pivoting arm by some kind of pinch bolt, so it perhaps it's possible to undo that and rotate the pivoting arm independently of the lever? I couldn't see well enough to see if that's possible, though.