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Turns on, wont turn over

Started by mishbenz, January 04, 2022, 12:30:18 AM

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mishbenz

Hey guys, would like some help

A bit of context, gave my 2005 GS a wash yesterday, looked shmic.
Hopped on this morning to do some errands and it didn't start right away, all lights turned on, horn was working, but when i press the starter switch nothing happens. checked the kickstand switch to make sure there wasnt any grime i might of missed stopping it from compressing, and checked the 2 connector pins connecting the starter switch because i didnt notice them when i was washing them so i thought maybe i was a bit rough drying off the bike a messed them up. Tried to start it after checking these 2 things and it started right up and went out.

First stop was done and i came back to ride off and had the same issue. Googled the problem and i found a post on this site (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=24376.0) and it noted that i should be able to bump start the bike which i tried and it worked, twice so far, so i dont think its anything with the battery.

In the post they mentioned it potentially being a problem with starter motor relay. Noticed it had a fuse connected to the relay so i check it thinking it could of just been a blown fuse (i disconnected and reconnected the battery before washing the bike to replace a dampener on the speedo) also a no go, fuse was fine.

Checked the starter switch connectors again and i noticed some water coming out of the wire shielding coming out of the main switch body.

A bit stuck now. I believe best course of action would be to test all the components with a multi-meter? isolate the problem so i dont have to waste any money just guessing a purchasing random parts out of no where.

Looking to pick up a multi-meter tomorrow but any advice on next steps would be greatly apricated, new to working on bikes but super excited to get into it a learn some new skills. PLEASE AND THANKYOU

herennow

10 bucks says it's the battery. Try with a known good one.

mr72

I agree with herennow .. this kind of thing is 99% the battery and 99% of the time we don't want it to be because that's the most expensive thing to replace. You should still do the standard diagnostics, which includes checking voltage at the coil side of the starter relay when you press the start button, and if that is 0V, then you have a wiring problem or bad switch somewhere (clutch, side stand, start switch, etc.). Use a wiring diagram and a multimeter and enjoy learning a new skill.

mishbenz

Quote from: herennow on January 04, 2022, 04:22:07 AM
10 bucks says it's the battery. Try with a known good one.

if its the battery shouldn't it still attempt to turn over? when i press the button legit nothing happens, no starter relay clicking, no sluggish lack of power turn over, but thats my experience of what happens in a car, its different with bikes?

ill be sure to test the battery first when i get the multimeter in an hour or 2. What should i be looking for to see its a good battey? close to or above 12V?

herennow

#4
You can google lead acid battery voltage to % tables (assuming you are using that chemistry). To simulate load, leave ignition on for 10 minutes with main beam on before measuring. Voltage should not drop noticeably during this time.

How old is your battery? It's probably lost a cell.

mr72

If there's no click of the relay, then the chances are slim that it's the battery. You can't diagnose it on a forum. You need to get out there with a wiring diagram and a multimeter and sort out what the cause is. Nobody on the internet is going to magically know what's wrong. Could be a dozen things, only way to know is to test it.

sledge

First thing I would do is check the battery acid levels and make sure the connections are clean and secure but people in here like to complicate things and tend to overlook the basics  :D

You have to start with the battery

1) Get if off the bike
2) Take it to an auto shop
3) Ask them to charge then load test it.

If they say its f%&ked.......buy a new one
If they say its ok...........fit it back in the bike and if it still doesn't start, then you start looking for poor connections and open circuits

Either way DONT rule out the possibility of a faulty charging system.


mr72

Hate to say it, but sledge is right. 99% of the time, it's the battery. We always want it to be something cheaper, but it rarely is.

mishbenz

UPDATE

so got a multimeter, took the battery out to make sure its still got charge and all good, 12.5V

Cleaned off the terminals and connectors and hooked it back up, tried to start it for shits and gigs and it turned on.

Turned it off a tried again and it didnt turn on at first.

Set up was Neutral, kickstand down. i then held the breaks and clutch in at the same time while holding down the start button and it started.

Held the break and tried to start, Nothing.
Held the clutch and tried to strart, Nothing.
Brought the clutch in while holding the start and it started.

Seems a finnicky still, dirty battery terminals/connecters? when i swapped the speedo dampener i disconnected and reconnected the battery for the first time, could that of caused much that was just around it to settle and cause a bad connection? if it did why did everything else turn on like normal?

So many questions still and just a little annoyed because i dont know whats caused it and i haven't learned a thing ow

Will keep you updated it this persists.

mr72

12.5V is a worrying number. If it's an AGM battery, it should be 13V or more when charged. For an open wet cell lead acid battery, it should be 12.6V. In my experience, the bike will fail to turn over with under about 12.8V from an AGM battery. The relay should still click, but maybe you are not hearing it.

Could also be a dead spot on the starter. You need to verify the starter relay/solenoid is functioning, that is, it's getting +12V at the coil side and closing the contacts, and then continue diagnosing down the line. You're not going to solve this without testing.

sledge

Static voltage doesn't mean much, for any type of battery. Its how much the voltage drops and how much current can be delivered when the battery is under maximum load ie trying to spin the starter.....hence the term "load test"

Take your bike to any decent shop, tell them you suspect battery issues and the first thing they will do is hook up one of these.......it takes about 30 seconds.......and another 10 to test the charging system!!.



Less than 20 of your bucks!!


mentalshark

#11
Quick question, when you press start, does the headlight gets dimmer? if it does it's very likely a battery issue. Try jump-start it with a car battery too, if that didn't work your battery is probably fine.

One more thing: my bike had problem starting before, and it was the left heated grips cable stopping the clutch from going all the way down, i need to twist it from time to time. hopefully this helps you out.

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