Got my milk crate installed on my 2006 GS500F

[Armandorf]

Nice, for the headlight blow one possibility is that your new r/r throws more voltage than before. If the connections are nice and tight with no intermittency i would simply put a diode (Common 1n4007 or others like 1N4004, check datasheet) that will shave off around 0.6v, you can put 2 in series.


If the problem is in the connection path or you want to test it:
You are in luck I I'm just rebuilding the connectors on my bike so I have everything fresh on my mind after looking the wiring diagram so many times.


Battery-->fuse->RED wire to ignition.
ORANGE is the ignition switched power: battery fused power (RED) with key in ON position on the orange wire.

If you have a RH SW right hand light switch, will feed from the Orange, and the headlight switch will send  that through a Yellow with white tracer to the LH SW left hand HI/LO beam switch. Then to headlights : Hi Yellow, LO White

If you don't have a RH SW right hand switch the head lights are fixed from the orange , so you can only change high beam to low beam on the LH SW.

Hi lo beam switch connects to HI (yellow wire) or LO(white wire) that goes to H4 connector for headlamp.
B/W black and white wire goes to battery negative and is grounded.

Yo can run a wire from the ignition orange to headlamp HI/LO to bypass all the switches.

[Roofaloof]

That's a lot of work. Good job getting it running right!

Thanks! I like to do multi-day tours, so I want to make sure everything is well sorted 

[Roofaloof]

Nice, for the headlight blow one possibility is that your new r/r throws more voltage than before. If the connections are nice and tight with no intermittency i would simply put a diode (Common 1n4007 or others like 1N4004, check datasheet) that will shave off around 0.6v, you can put 2 in series.


If the problem is in the connection path or you want to test it:
You are in luck I I'm just rebuilding the connectors on my bike so I have everything fresh on my mind after looking the wiring diagram so many times.


Battery-->fuse->RED wire to ignition.
ORANGE is the ignition switched power: battery fused power (RED) with key in ON position on the orange wire.

If you have a RH SW right hand light switch, will feed from the Orange, and the headlight switch will send  that through a Yellow with white tracer to the LH SW left hand HI/LO beam switch. Then to headlights : Hi Yellow, LO White

If you don't have a RH SW right hand switch the head lights are fixed from the orange , so you can only change high beam to low beam on the LH SW.

Hi lo beam switch connects to HI (yellow wire) or LO(white wire) that goes to H4 connector for headlamp.
B/W black and white wire goes to battery negative and is grounded.

Yo can run a wire from the ignition orange to headlamp HI/LO to bypass all the switches.

Thanks for the help! I think I have it fixed at this point.

I have a voltage gauge on the handlebars, it never shows more than 14.5v when I'm riding. This should be no problem for an H4 bulb.

Over the winter, I worked on this issue one day. Of course I didn't take any notes on what I did. From what I remember, the ground and voltage all tested good. I think I found a dirty connection in the ground circuit and cleaned it. I also put dielectric grease in all of the connectors in the headlight circuit.

On my quick test ride recently, the light did not blow out. Last year a 20 minute ride would have been enough to blow the bulb.

I'm going to keep an eye on it and see how it holds up before doing any more testing. Maybe it's fixed 

[Armandorf]

The ground thick cable from the battery negative to the crankcase is vital. Check that.

[Roofaloof]

The ground thick cable from the battery negative to the crankcase is vital. Check that.

Will do! I haven't checked that one yet. Is it the main ground?