going from constant loss to electric starter

[danny_never]

I bought a race bike that is set up constant loss, and i decided since i am not racing this year i didnt want to push start a track bike every session. (that would be like 8 times a day in leathers in the south), plus i wouldnt mind riding it on the street a bit to get used to it since my last 2 bikes were a TL1000R and a gixxer 750 and i have never had a bike smaller than a 600 4cyl. I got the starter and stator and stuff hooked up, and since the wiring harness was completely hacked, i got a new one on ebay. i have most of the stuff hooked up, but i just get a click in the starter solinoid when i flip the switch to start it. i am missing a few things, like the ignition switch, which i wired to a toggle, but i probably did it wrong. and there are a couple of things on the wiring harnness which are cut.

anybody have any tips on wiring up without the ignition switch? and getting rid of any of the safety stuff, like the sidestand switch (can i get rid ot the sidestand relay?) clutch switch, and any of the other protect me from me stuff that is probably causing me problems?

[JamesG]

Get starting rollers.  :mrgreen:

[danny_never]

maybe hire a pit Buddha Loves You to push start it for me? :lol:

[yamahonkawazuki]

i would say get your mexican friend manual, but in case not, a sometimes member of this site with one of his own, posted microfiches
http://olivieeeer.free.fr/gs500e/microfiches/microfiches.html
be forwarned, his site LOVES pop-ups

[werase643]

one..where are you located?

side stand safety switch jumpered?
clutch safety switch jumpered?

[danny_never]

located an hour north of Orlando FL

I think i have the sidestand switch jumpered, but i dont have the switch itself, so i am not sure i have the right wires. ( i do have a manual, but without seeing where the wires plug into, its still hard to tell if thats the right dark green wire and the right black and white wire.

pretty sure i did the clutch switch right.

maybe i could get a hot umbrella girl in a bikini to push start the bike, i am sure i could get the others in the pits  to pitch in, right?   :lol:

[Greg Gabis]

I purchased a racebike in 2001 that was total loss and I reinstalled the starter and charging system.

If you push the button and just get a click out of the solenoid, it ain't a safety switch. If it were a safety switch, you'd get nuthin'.

I can't remember off the top of my head my exact wiring setup but I can get you some more details in a day or two.

Did you reinstall the starter relay? The starter relay assembly also houses the main fuse. The '89 model came with a modular relay/fuse design. Subsequent years came with an integrated relay/fuse assembly.

You should have a heavy gauge wire coming from the + side of the battery directly to the starter relay. After the fuse, you'll find two terminals on the relay assembly. These terminals complete the power circuit to the starter. The ground is achieved through the starter being mounted to the cases. The hot wire that supplies power to the rest of the bike starts at one of the terminals on the relay. That wire should run to your on/off toggle switch. The wire coming out of the toggle switch will feed power back to the starter relay and the ignition system. Splice a second wire into the hot wire coming out of the toggle switch. Send a wire off to the rest of the bike (ignition system) and another wire back to the second terminal on the starter relay. Wire a momentary push button into the hot wire that feeds the second terminal on the starter relay. You can try to reuse the push button on the right control pod, but I found that a separate button is easier.

The setup above should get power to the starter correctly. You're on your own as far as the rest of the electricals.

DISCLAIMER: The above description was written totally from my crappy memory and may not be 100% correct.

[danny_never]

Thanks Greg,    the fact that if it clicks it aint a safety switch got me looking in the right direction, and your instructions on how to wire the starter helped me find the problem. I got it to crank up and run!

Its so great having a site like this.


so now i need to wire up a toggle to replace the ignition switch. right now i have the Red and orange wires connected, as well as the Gray and Brown, and just unhooked the battery when i was done messing with it. Can i use a toggle with 2 poles and just wire the Red and Gray on one end and the Brown and orange on the other? or do i need some kind of 4 pole toggle or something ? (obviously electrics aint my strong suit.)

[KevinC]

I just used the kill switch on my track bike. I can't remmeber the details, but it was pretty easy to wire it so that the kill switch was the off/on. Might not work if you are planning on lights and such.

[Mike Harman]

I replaced the ignition switch on my old GS400X using a 2 or 3 pole switch rated at 20 amps. I mounted it in the same hole as the ignition. The bike was (is) so beat-looking, no worries about theft!

It has been working fine for at least 5 years. If anyone wants it, it's for sale. 1977 GS400X, original except for seat, tires, sprockets, chain, ignition switch! One owner. Runs great, looks like sh*t.

[danny_never]

cool. I'll prolly hide the toggle, cuz someone might steal it for the cool vortex clipons and cfm rearsets i have on there. otherwise, it don't  look like much  :lol: if i wanted pretty, i'd get another TL1000R