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putting on a new chain and sprockets

Started by dublinjail, April 06, 2004, 05:47:43 AM

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dublinjail

Well, i was looking over the bike last night and noticed that my back sprocket had some rough and chipped teeth. Plus my chain is old and I've tightened it almost to the last hash mark so i'm gonna change that as well. My question is this, upon reading older threads i'm gonna go with a 15t front, a standard 39t steel rear and a DID 520 110v chain. All in all it should run 135.00 w/shipping from sprocket specialists. Is it hard to change a chain if you've never done it previously and you don't have a dremmel tool as i've read some have used in the past to get they're chain to cooperate? or should i buy the parts and shop around for a decent labor cost at a local dealer. finally if i go with the dealer what should i hope to see as a reasonable labor fee in the n. florida area, and how long does a job like this take? Alot of questions I know, appreciate anyones imput on the matter, thanks...

werase643

order a 4 or 4.5 inch angle grinder from harbor freight or go to LOWES and get the cheapest one    your choice
cut the chain off and do it your self

should take less than an hour to complete
want Iain's money to support my butt in kens shop


smoker

An angle grinder is a great tool to have around and since you'd probably pay at least $20 to take it to a shop, you could go to Busy Beaver (they usually have pretty cheap tools) or Depot and get one for that price.  I've seen $20 angle grinders last 10-15 yrs...
BE EXCELLENT TO EACH OTHER!!!!
-Bill S. Preston, Esq.

dublinjail

Thanks for replying, i think I'll check out the grinder at lowes and home depot to see who gives a better deal. i don't have much faith in the shops giving me a good deal and i'd enjoy doing it myself. thanks again...

tod

What about a chain breaker?  They're like fifteen bucks, and last forever they just pop the rivets out of the chain don't they?  Anyway I don't have one, on my KZ I used a hacksaw :)

And are you sure this chain doesn't have a master link?  Check for that first, it's easy if they have one of those...

BanannaMan

I've been using a   $12.99 (from Dennis Kirk) Chainbreaker for nearly 10 years.
Sooo much easier and safer than cutting the chain.


You will also need a chain press to intall the new master link.  about $10.00.

Don't forget to turn your adjusting bolts the exact same amount to keep your rear wheel inline. I put a dot on the top of the bolts with a permanent marker to make it easier.
You will have to loosen the adjustment to get the new chain on...then retighten.

I put an "X" ring chain on my GS and it needs much less adjusting than previous regular O-ring chains.
Worth the extra $$$ IMHO.
BanannaMan
Christian Sport Bike Association
www.christiansportbike.com

2002 SV650S
1991 GS500E

flyingbeagle71

Bump...this old topic answered almost all of my questions about putting on a new chain. 

What about rivet links vs. clip links.  I imagine a riveted chain would be tougher than a chain with a clip link...  I'm not really sure though if I understand the difference between the two. 

From Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse's Website:
(44939)       $5.95 D.I.D. 520V Vector O-Ring Chain Master Link (Clip) Mfg.#: 520VFJ 
(32825)       $5.95 D.I.D. 520V Vector O-Ring Chain Master Link (Rivet) Mfg.#: 520VZJ 

I would guess that the rivet link is more permanent and harder to install, needing a rivet squeezer.  The clip link would be easier to install, needing more of a clamp type device, but maybe not as tough, or long lasting???

For riveting a chain link, from JCWhitney's.  Pretty expensive at $85.99.

For driving clips on, from JCWhitney's and only $9.99.

Any reason to use rivet links over clip links?  Pros and Cons either way?  What is the factory chain?  Other options?   :dunno_white:

Any help will be greatly appreciated!   Thanks!!!  :cheers:
GS500F in BLUE because that's the COOLEST color!

gsJack

#8
x

sledge

Links should be avoided at all costs on high speed chain drives subject to shock-loads, thats a widely accepted Engineering practice due to the fact that linked chains are up to 30% weaker than endless ones. The 2 pins that form the link are only fixed  to the link plate at  one end, there is a clearance at the other side to allow the other link plate to fit over the pins before the clip is fitted. As a result the pins and link plate are free to flex by an amount equal to the clearance between the pins and unfixed link plate everytime the chain is loaded. The upshot of this is the possibilty of stress fractures developing leading to catastrophic failure.....not a nice thing to happen during hard acceleration.
Stick with the endless type that Suzuki fitted when the bike was built.


http://diamondchain.com/support/techfaqs.php#t10

See question 17.


fettcols

Fett's (CRASHED) Ride-Flush Mounts, Aluizio Undertail, Aluizio Hugger, Wileyco w/flange, K&N, Sudco Jets, Custom Painted Tail & Fender, 2wheeljunkie LED Tails & Factory Clip-ons       Now I'm rolling an old school GSXR1100 w/1260cc kit built by Joe Marasco himself and two Harley 883 sportsters!

gsJack

#11
x

sledge

As you say, "its your life its your choice", but my education and  experience in Engineering principles and design leads me to say I wouldnt reccomend to anyone the use of a split link where one was not used previously. I dont look at the chain as just a chain, its an Engineering application in its own right. Its purpose being to transmit power from the gearbox to the rear wheel and by fitting a link you are making a major change to the design. Because you dont know the design specifications and requirements of the application and the exact effect the link will have other than the fact it reduces the chains load carrying ability by a certain factor (20-30% is the accepted figure) its clear you are making a serious and safety related compromise to its integrity...Thats just plain old common sense talking and just because you have never had a problem with one it doesnt follow the next person will follow suit. However you could argue the case and say "If you are crazy enough to fit one, you are crazy enough not to worry about it".

BTW  Shock loading is the term used to describe a chain thats subject to a wide and different range off speed and torque requirements over a period of time, like a bike chain. If it was powering...say a loaded conveyer belt at a fixed speed and torque for 12 hours a day it wouldnt be subject to differing shock loads. It dont matter how smooth your take off is, everytime you accelerate and move through the gears the chain is being subject to fluctuating shock loads relative to engine and road speed and power demands made on the engine.


http://chain-guide.com/applications/1-5-2-motorcycle-chain.html



gsJack

#13
x

RedShift

This Split Link - Endless Chain controversy is kinda interesting.

I tend to think there's nothing wrong with the Split Link concept if you are consciencous about your bike.  If you use a clip link, you should put safety wire around the sideplate and clip to hold it on, or use a dab of silicone sealant on the clip.

But if you're likely to not watch over your ride as much as you should, then I'd recommend going endless chain.  Mechanically there's less to go wrong with riveted posts, but it is not necessary if other precautions have been made. 

Using a Split Link is sure a lot easier to use than taking the swingarm off.
2001 GS500E, stock except for SV650 Flyscreen, Case Guards, Headlight Modulator, PIAA Super White bulb & 17-Tooth Front Sprocket, BLUE, RED and GREEN LED Instrument and Dash Lights

sledge

Dublinjack asked for comments about split and endless chains, I gave him mine as have others and now and can make his own choice based on them.

Jack? I think you are being pedantic about the tyres, you know its irrelevent and has no bearing both on the issue and the point I am making about the chain and the effects a split-link will have on its integrity. As an Engineer ( I assume ME means Mech-Eng) I am surprised you are not highlighting the risks that splint-linked chains present. I guess things must have been different during your time and that safety wasnt the issue it is today.

gsJack

#16
I've really been wasting far too much time on this thread and on this forum.  Adios Amigo!

sledge

Jack?
Get in the real world old son. This is an open forum,  people make comments and make replies and if you are going to contribute you have to accept the fact that sooner or later someone will dissagree with you or say something that winds you up. People have different opinions and points of view and thats human nature. I am not going to appologise for anything I have said because as far as I am concerned my views on the subject are correct and I will stand by them but at the same time I will say it was not my intention to upset you in anyway whatsoever.

Cal Amari

Quote from: gsJack on February 11, 2006, 11:45:50 AM
I've really been wasting far too much time on this thread and on this forum.  Adios Amigo!
Looks like GSJack has left the forum...   :o  what a shame...  :cry:  He is one of the few members of this forum I want to meet in person. Knowledge and wisdom like his can't be bought, it can only be earned & learned over a lifetime... He'll be missed...

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=21529.msg246795#msg246795

I do hope our paths cross somewhere out on the road, Jack...  I'd like nothing more than to have a few beers with you and learn more about the things I don't yet know... Adios GSJack  :cheers:
This space for rent...

Wrecent_Wryder

#19
34e
"On hiatus" in reaction to out-of-control moderators, thread censorship and member bans, 7/31/07.
Your cure is worse than the disease.
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