heat grip questions

[spacebug]

I just got some heated grip pads for my bike.  The first question is, can the electrical system handle it?  It draws 1.6 amp at 12.7V and 35W.  Will the battery be able to stay charged?  Also, what is the best way to hook it up?  directly to the battery?  There is an on/off switch.  But is there a way to hook up to the ignition so that it goes off when i turn the bike off?  Thanks for any help.

[richard]

Well, I can tell you how *I* hooked *mine* up, but you'll have to decide specifics on yours for yourself.

I purchased heated grip pads, which wrap around the bar under your grips.

<skip this section if you have full heated grips instead of pads like I did>
I used a little wd-40 to remove the left grip from the bike, and then used a little dishsoap and water to clean the residue off of both the bar and the inside of the grip.  I put the grip back on with the heat pad under it, with the wires coming out on the underside so you don't see them unless you look.  (I'll try to post pics later, if you'd like.  I took pics while I was doing it, but my pda crashed and I lost them)

The right grip was a little more challenging, since you have to put it under the rubber, but over the plastic throttle rod.  if you try to put it under the throttle cyl, your throttle won't turn right, and you really don't want that.
</skip section>

Now that I had the wires in place, I just needed to hook them up.  First problem was an On/Off switch.  I needed someplace to put it.

here is a picture of my solution:



Kerry and I rigged that up.  We used welding steel and attached it to the bottom bolts that hold the handlebars on.  This would not have fit if we had not added an extra riser to the handlebars.

On the right, I added a 12v cig lighter style socket for pluggin in my cell phone.  on the left is the control for the high/low/off on the heated grips.

Inside the headlight casing, there is an extra pair of wires which have 12v across them when the headlight is on.  If you connect those wires to a 12v relay, you can then run a wire from the battery to the relay, and then from the relay power your heated grips.  That way, when you turn off the bike/headlight, the grips get turned off and don't kill the bike.

I have not had any problems with the battery going dead while using the grips on high.  I measured the current drawn by both grips on at once as being a little over 3 amps when they are on high.  I have also had a cell phone plugged in charging while using the heated grips.

I hope this helps... feel free to respond with any specific questions.

<phew>

[WAP]

Hey Richard, did you have to use a separate glue or epoxy for the pads and grips to stick again? I ordered a heated grip kit which is very similar, if not exactly the same as yours, judging by the appearance of the on/off switch (mine is manufactured by Kimpex, ordered from aerostich). The grip pads are advertised as "adhesive", i was wondering whether they'll be "adhesive" ENOUGH?  :dunno:

[WAP]

Well a quick search just confirmed that most likely you did order the Kimpex kit, if this link is right:
http://store.azmusa.com/kigrhekit.html

Next question, I was wondering if you could walk me through the wiring, assuming i want to go through the unused wires in the headlamp case. This thread helped a little:
http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5330&highlight=heated+grip
I have a rough idea of what mjm was talking about, but remember that you are talking to a complete electrical novice! Can you give me detailed instructions on exactly what to connect to what? Maybe even pics? And please, keep it as least technical as you can (eg: the green wire goes here, the black one goes here).   :mrgreen:

[richard]

Well, most of the wires all all the same color. =]


Lets see if this makes any sense at all:



I didn't use any additional adhesives, but it was a bugger to get on, particularly the right side.  I ended up using a little WD-40 to get the right side back on, so it still slides just a little bit when it warms up.  it hasn't been a problem, though, since it doesn't slide easily or much.

also, to get the right side grip off the throttle cylindar is quite an interesting trick.  you'll figure it out... just know that you might have to partially break it to do so.  :x

I used a relay I picked up from an auto parts store.  It had a plus and minus for the power to control it (when 12v is on, relay closes, when off, relay open), 1 source port, and two switched.  I took power off one of the switched for the grips, and the other for the 12v accessory.

I'd recommend putting a 10amp inline fuse between the relay and the grips.  If you are going to have anything else after the relay (in fact, maybe you should anyway) you should put a 30 amp fuse (or so, 20 would probably be fine) on the + side of the wire you run from the battery to the relay.  I stashed the relay inside the headlight cover, it actually fit okay.  a little snug, but not bad.

One side of the heated grips will be fed by the power coming from the relay.  If the switch is set to off, no power is connected.  if the switch is set to high, power goes directly to the grips, and when the switch is to low, it goes through the resister and then to the grips.  The other wire on both grips should be connected to ground somewhere (whether to the chassis or to the negative terminal on the battery.  if to the chassis, make sure it's a good solid connection)

That looks like the exact kit I used, or very very close to it.

remember that the switch when flipped to high connects the center conductor on the bottom to the conductor under the "low" side, since it connects diagonally down.

like so:  (don't you love ASCII art?)

Code Select Expand

    \
     \
 ===========
 =         =
 ===========
 |    |    |

      ^----^

      |
      |
 ===========
 =         =
 ===========
 |    |    |

      ^
*disconnected*


        /
       /
 ===========
 =         =
 ===========
 |    |    |

 ^----^


oh, and incidently, I *am* planning to strip the rust from the above plate and paint it.. just haven't had time yet. =]

[WAP]

WOW!
Now that is what i call helpful!
Richard you are THE MAN!   In fact you might have dumbed it down too much, if that's even possible. But thanks for the help, I'm sure the wiring will be a breeze with that diagram!    

[richard]

maybe I got carried away a little bit. =]

[spacebug]

yup, thanks for the tips Richard, hopefully i should have not problems getting these installed this weekend.  I think i got the same pads even.  Thanks a bunch.

[richard]

let me know how it goes!  with the included resistor, the low setting should be just noticable, and the high setting should be slightly uncomfortable.

There is no in-between setting. =]

Also, I'd be interested to hear how you decide to mount the switch.

Pics would be great for others trying to do the same thing, particularly of installing the pads, since I lost mine.

[WAP]

Hey one more question. Will the resistor get hot during use? I mean HOT, as in hot enough that you have to figure out a clever way to mount it so it doesn't melt any wires or anything?

[richard]

It shouldn't.  Ceramic can dissipate a lot of heat.  it *will* get warm, and I wouldn't put it somewhere that will hold in the heat and let it build up, but in open air, even if you aren't moving, I don't think you need to worry.

particularly if you are moving, any heat will be moved away by the wind going by... even if you have a wind screen like I do.

[WAP]

Ok, I bought a relay that has four prongs on it, they're labeled: "on/off switch', "12V in", "12V out", and "ground". Which one goes where?   :mrgreen:

[richard]

Ok, I bought a relay that has four prongs on it, they're labeled: "on/off switch', "12V in", "12V out", and "ground". Which one goes where?   :mrgreen:

Taking from my diagram:

On/Off Switch is the + on the control side
Ground is the - on the control side
12V in is the S on the source side
12V out is the + on the switched side


hope this helps