Clutch lever

[Earndd]

Has anyone had to replace their cluth lever?? My bike fell over in the garage and broke the end of it so I ordered a replacment from bikebandits.com. If you have replaced yours how difficult was it to do?? Should I leave this up to the Pro's?? :guns:

[Kerry]

See brake/clutch lever replacement for the clutch lever I just installed on Friday.

The procedure is pretty easy.  The hardest part is getting enough slack at the upper end of the clutch cable to pull the adjuster all the way out of the threads in the clutch perch.  (I had to get extra slack by using the adjuster at the lower end of the cable.)

Once the cable is free, remove the screws for the safety switch and let the switch hang.  Pull the old lever out, insert the new one, and "undo" the rest of the procedure steps, in reverse order.

[Earndd]

Sweet thanks dude!!!  

[Kerry]

PS: Before installing the new lever, I applied a little grease:

1) To the pivot bolt (on the smooth part of the shaft, NOT THE THREADS!)

2) To the new lever, on any surface where I could tell that the old lever had contacted the perch in a sliding motion.  (Look for the old grease, or for areas shiny from "scraping".)

[Changemanager]

Kerry,

This is so great! My wife (just learning on my GS) dropped it and curled back the clutch lever. (She received a small bruise on her leg for her efforts and she'll have a practical example to share at her MSF class in two weeks - she's not discouraged wtih this small mis-hap)

I was just getting ready to search this site to see how this might be fixed and...viola!

THANKS!!  

[Kerry]

My pleasure.  "Pass it forward!"  

[Bob Broussard]

The cable adjuster on the perch, has a slot in it. You screw in the adjuster as far as you can while still lining up the slot with the slot on the perch.
Then you pull in the clutch lever. Grab the cable and pull out as you release the lever. You should be able pull the cable out of the slot. Then you can remove the cable from the lever.
You may have to back off the adjuster at the engine case to give you more slack. But you don't need to remove the adjuster from the perch. Just screw it into the perch for more slack.

[Kerry]

Aha!  So I wasn't crazy when I posted pictures of removing the clutch cable last September (in the thread Progrip question).  I could have sworn that I had done it that way, but when I took the pictures I must not have had as much slack (and was too lazy to use the lower adjuster).

[MarkusN]

Speaking of clutch cables: The original is a complete assembly with pressed-on endpieces and the complete duct.

My clutch cable has a broken strand from a , uh, event, and I want to replace it.

Anyone have experience with cables and clamp-on endpieces?
How do those wear?
Any problems with endpieces coming loose?

[dgyver]

I would not trust clamp on end pieces on a clutch. Replace it with a one with factory ends. If they break off, then you have no clutch. When they will fail is while you are using the clutch. Just think of the consiquences when the clutch completely engages unexpectedly. I have found spare cable assemblies at the salvage yards for about $10.