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Started by newbieone, May 08, 2004, 09:30:55 PM

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newbieone

Bob Broussard, JamesG, KevinC, or anyone famialair with a gs motor.

Kerry has referred me to you concerning an oil leak that I cannot find.  The oil is accumulating on the lower part of the motor that is below the exhaust exit. There is some bolt between the two exhaust ports and that is the piece of metal that somehow gets oil on the top and bottom part and then the oil is dripping down on the lower part of the motor. Anyways, I'm going to try to post some pics up (sorry kerry didn't have a chance to check out that site but thanks again) these pics are not very good but i hope they will help define the problem area.  The bike is 01 with 7500 miles.  The bike is fairly new so I am not sure of previous care and such.  I tried tightening that bolt also but I was unsure how tight it should be and I didn't want to break it.  Please post up suggestions.






JamesG

Wooooah.. big fuzzy pictures...

Ok, from what I see, you are pointing to the highest point you can see oil on the motor? So from that I see either one of two things.
Either:

1) You may have gotten lucky and it could be the old dastardly tach cable loose problem again. I can't really tell in you pics, so I wanted to let you know so you can eliminate this potential easy solution before you start dismembering your bike.  Look at the front of the head where the tach cable screws in. Is there any oil on, behind, or below it? Is the threaded cap loose? If it is tighten that bast'id up and count yourself fortunate.

2) IF not, its probably a blown head gasket. The GS's oil pump forces oil up the cylinder stud holes to oil the cams and valves. If the gasket has given up, oil can come squirting out. Can be an expensive problem to fix, but isn't the end o' the world.
James Greeson
GS Posse
WERA #306

newbieone

Yea sorry about the pics i know they suck, right along with digital cam i have.  I have been discussing this issue with Sir Kerry and he already had told me about the tach cable and that does not seem to be the problem.  
I thought that it was possible something worse.  I actually pretty positive this is the problem due to the only time it leaks is while running especially while driving.  But before i go emptying my already empty pockets is there anything else I can try first.

Also, what kind of money am I looking at spending here?  How did this happen? Is this a common occurance?  The leak seems slow and the oil level is not decreasing is my bike safe to ride?  I am sure this is probably a project that could be done at home, but i do not have the space to do it so unless i go home soon it'll be going to the shop.  Any other suggestions?

JLKasper

Hopefully your self-esteem won't depend on an oil-tight motor.  Call the dealer and see what he charges for a head gasket replacement.  Since it's a relatively uncomplicated procedure, you should get a straight answer. While it's best to repair the problem, I wouldn't worry so much about it.  What I'd do for now would be to check the torque on the head bolts, including that little one that comes up from below that you're pointing at.  Maybe it'll take care of it, probably it won't.  Just be sure to keep it clean; nobody likes to look at an oily engine! ;)
"A skittish motor-bike with a touch of blood in it is better than all the riding animals on Earth."
               --T.E. Lawrence

newbieone

Aight, I have determined that the oil is leaking from.  It is where that bolt is connecting (I'm assuming) the head and lower end of the motor. If, in fact, the head is that large.  I know that the cyclinder walls are surrounded with fins and they seperate and that seems to be where the leak is.  I have tightened the crap out of that little bolt but I do not want to break it.  

So has anyone had any similair experiences such as this?

Thanks again for your help.

Blueknyt

if its not a LOT of oil, leave it be, or if its under Warrenty, have the shop fix it.  either way it intails removing the head and putting a new gasket inplace, you  "MIGHT" slow it down more by re Torquing the head bolts, but i doubt it.
Accelerate like your being chased, Corner like you mean it, Brake as if you life depends on it.
Ride Hard...or go home.

Its you Vs the pavement.....who wins today?

JamesG

You can try tightening up the cylinder stud nuts.  They are the large acorn nuts, you can see two of them on either side of each sparkplug. There are two more underneith the head cover. Can't hurt, and is free (if you own a torque wrench already).

newbieone- That unfinned bulge is the wall for the cam chain tunnel. That bolt only requires 10Nm so "good-n-tight" should be fine. Use a can of brake contact cleaner and clean the oil and dirt off the front, sides and rear of the cylinder and head, all the way up to the head cover. Make sure you've still got a good oil level, and then go for a good ride. Come back and check it. If you still have oil weeping out on the outside, use a flashlight to look carefully down between the two fins that make up the seam between the head and the cylinder.  Check all the way around. If you see an oil film or drops in there, you definately have a blown head gasket.

A guy and I did the above with his leaking CB750 and when we got back  it had stopped leaking! So maybe you will get lucky too.
James Greeson
GS Posse
WERA #306

The Buddha

OK I had a Katana that I torqued the head bolts on and it stopped its oil leaking... the bolts were in with non permament locktite, the nuts will have to be broken free, then you torque them to the right specs, loosen them and repeat... 2-3 times will give you the right number, do not over torque them... you might warp the cylinder head, and follow the pattern.... its in the manual... somewhere. That is all you should do, oil leak there isn't the end of the world, of course it sneeze misfiring at the head will be bad... but your's isn't.
Cool.
Srinath.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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newbieone

Well I just about messed in my pants when I called and got my first quote from a motorcycle specialists (not a dealer) today.  They quoted me a price of $850+parts.  :o  I quickly hung up the phone, and ran to the bathroom to check.  After composing myself, I called a local dealer and they seemed to be much more reasonable at $350-$450 with the having the head reworked with new valve shimms and what-nots.  Turn around time was nearly 3 weeks though.  I was so happy with this I called another motorcycle specialists again to be shopping and they couldn't even give me a quote for 2 weeks hehe. Then I mentioned I had a GS500 the guy said, "Oh wait, The owner's son is big fan of those and bikes and knows all about them. Maybe you should come by tom. and meet him and maybe he can help you." I was so excited I almost messed in my pants again.  I didn't even know but of one of member located in TN. Maybe I can get him signed up here and he can give me a hand at home and fix my bike over the weekend.

Well, I have another question.  After montioring my bike extremely closely, and burning a few fingers, I found that the valve cover seems to be leaking too.  It is leaking above the right spark plug.  I am wondering if there are some cooling vents that would allow the oil to run down onto the area that I see the oil?  I should know more tom. ,but I was hoping someone could help me sleep a little better.

Bob Broussard

When you ride the bike, the wind spreads the oil around.
It is MUCH more likely it's the rubber gasket on the cam cover leaking.
If the head gasket was leaking it would be more severe.

The dealer's full of crap, telling you he'll have to replace shims.
The valve clearences don't change when you remove the head.
All it requires is a head gasket and the 4 o-rings for the outer studs.
Maximum 2 hrs labor @$70.00hr. It should cost $200-250 as far as I'm concerned.  :guns:  :nana:

Degrease the motor and ride it. Keep it around town at slower speeds, so the oil doesn't get spread to much. Then check it over real good until you pinpoint it.

newbieone

Bob

Thanks for the advise, but if it is only the cam cover leaking will that require replaceing the head gasket. Or to get to the cam cover gasket you still have to pull the head?   I actually thought it would be a good idea to let them go ahead an rework the head since it has 7500 mis? I know I always re worked the heads on my cars when I pulled them. -

Bob Broussard

You don't need to pull the head to replace the cam cover gasket.

After you remove the tank. Take the small crank breather cover off the top of the cam cover. It has 4 bolts (10m wrench). Then you use an allen wrench to remove the cam cover bolts.
The gasket is rubber. It's re-useable. So you might try cleaning things up and putting a little sealer in the groove of the cam cover. Then put a little on the edge of the head.
Don't over tighten the 4 top bolts. They thread into the top of the cam bearing caps. They will bottom out on the bearing caps, so they won't go any farther. Cranking them down too much could strip them out  :x

If you're going to pull the head and valves. Might as well port the head a little and do a complete valve job.  :dunno:  :mrgreen:  :)

newbieone

I will try cleaning it up again. I have to get some simple green or some other softer detergent. Sounds like it is not the rubber seal then.  I am didn't get a chnace to go see the guy who may know more about this bike today due to rain. I will try to go and see him tom.

As far as doing the port and polishing, that was my next question.  :mrgreen:

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