Synthetic Oil and Wet Clutches

[galahs]

There is some debate about if motorbike specific oil is really any better than motorcar oil.

In the past their might have been, but now there seems to be little to no difference. Just don't get a fuel saving or friction modified oil (see my previos post).


I know someone who put 5W-30 synthetic in their motorbike that has a wet clutch and they had clutch slippage in summer. Not evident in the cooler winter months.

So I think the viscosity is more important. Don't go too thin!

[phire]

So far, I can say only good things about the switch. Very smooth, responsive, and I am sure it is running cooler though I don't really have a way to measure "before" and "after" temperatures. I really like it so far.

But the real question is... Is it smoother and is it more responsive? Sometimes I'll switch to something that's said to be better and in my mind, it could feel like it but I have to keep questioning it and looking for it that I never *really* know until it's time to dismantle and see the results with my own eyes. It's funny how sometimes someone's opinion can make you feel like a product is doing a better job than it was before you heard it. Not to say that Mobil 1 isn't better, but I'm just talking in general. I use only Mobil 1 in my vehicles that I plan on keeping. While being able to go 9-10,000 miles is a bonus (filter change at 5), I also feel better about the added protection it gives and its ability to protect against wear better. I've seen countless mechanics tell me they only use Mobil 1 and I ask them why?  Each and every single response is - "When I take the engine apart, everything is clean as a whistle." Plus not to mention the ACTUAL studies and lab tests done with Mobil 1 that proves it's the #1 full synthetic oil. I hear alot of people say that this synthetic or that synthetic is the best, but I've done the research, read the studies that were done using real vehicles under real driving with lab tests done every 1,000 miles and nothing can compete with Mobil 1, with the exception of maybe Amsoil which comes close but won't hold its grade as long as M1. Amsoil lost its grade very quickly past 5,000 or so... In one particular study, it ended up turning into a straight 50 weight oil it got so bad while Mobil 1 stayed within its grade. But, other than it being unable to stay within grade, Amsoil did just as good as Mobil 1 in all the studies I've read.  Haven't read anything about Delvac which a lot of people claim as superior to regular Mobil 1, but I bet it might since it's designed for commercial vehicles.. (btw, the amsoil study was pulled at like 8,000 miles whereas the M1 was pulled at 18,000 and it was STILL within grade!)

But anyways, this post got kinda outta hand into a sermon on Mobil 1, but point being... Mobil 1 is the best synthetic to be running if you're going to be running a full synthetic oil. Now, whether it's good in a motorcycle or not... That's an on-going debate!  What we need is someone to run M1 in a bike that's brand new and run only M1 until the bike either needs engine/tranny/clutch repair or when it hits 50,000 and do the same with a conventional dino oil and see which bike looks the best at 50,000 miles (or whichever needs a major repair first, which would also be worth noting which oil was able to keep the parts protected better.) Bikes are funny machines and what's best in a car might not be the best in a bike... But, none of us really know for sure until we have some concrete 'studies' done!

[galahs]

problem is for a fair study both bikes would have to be operated in the same environment and way.

There is now enough evidence to say synthetics are a superior lubricant to recommend their use if you can afford it.

This is a good read on most things to do with oil!

www.trustmymechanic.com/motor-oil-bible.pdf

If possible id choose regular oil changes (with a cheaper brand) over keeping a good oil in for extended periods if I couldn't afford the cost of using the more expensive synthetics.

[Phaedrus]

Yes - the bike runs smoother and is more responsive. Mobile 1 is very niiiiiice  But back to my original question...

How could I detect "clutch slippage"? What are the early signs of it that I should be looking out for? (My idea is that I want to catch it before it gets too out of hand..haha).

[Gisser]

How could I detect "clutch slippage"? What are the early signs of it that I should be looking out for? (My idea is that I want to catch it before it gets too out of hand..haha).

It's when your RPM's increase while your MPH's remain the same.  That's the clue.   

[galahs]

One of the most accurate ways is to test your top speed. If its 10k's or more less than what it should be, then the clutch may be slipping.

[Egaeus]

One of the most accurate ways is to test your top speed. If its 10k's or more less than what it should be, then the clutch may be slipping.

The whoosa what now?

[Alphamazing]

One of the most accurate ways is to test your top speed. If its 10k's or more less than what it should be, then the clutch may be slipping.

The whoosa what now?

I believe he meant to say:

If it's ~10km/h off from what it should be, the clutch might be slipping.

[Phaedrus]

Cool  It hasn't done any of that yet. In fact, I haven't noticed any change other than it being smoother and more responsive. I wonder how long it would take to notice? Just because it doesn't do it now, doesn't mean that after 3000-4000 miles it won't right? 

[on2wheels]

My 04 was run in on mineral oil then changed to shell advance VSX4 synthetic at the 6000km service and the bike runs great. Definatley no shift/clutch problems and the bike has now done 9500km.

[rangerbrown]

bikes got 12k miles on it now, i have run moble 1 since the first oil change i did, it has never burned oil.

well there was that one time it did, when i first got it it went threw that stuff quick