I'm back baby!!!!

[Flash]

Hey everyone I've been gone so long from the forum I'm sorta ashamed.

I dropped my bike a few months ago while trying to cross some railroad tracks in a torrential downpour. I scraped my newly purchased windshield,  my recently purchased/painted bar end, and I scraped the left engine case cover. However, my biggest problem was sheering the bolts off my already damaged fork brace and twisting my fork. My plastic fender was rubbing on my tire too. Luckily, I managed to limp home from work without incident.

I was really pissed at myself and my bike so I let it sit and didn't want to think about it. I knew I had to replace the fork brace, but with what? another puney fork brace?   The only other choices were to pay ~$130 for an aftermarket version ( http://www.superbrace.com/ ) or have one fabricated. Since I did not know anyone who could do this at the time my bike fell to the bottom of my ToDO list. I didn't keep up with the forum because it was sorta depressing trying to read and chat when I was literally helpless and frustrated not being able to ride myself.

Anyways, I finally met an aquaintance who fabricated one for me last week as a favor and it is 1/2 " thick aircraft aluminum  :nana:
No way is it gonna fail me now    

Now, I'm just doing some general maintenance/mods before it is up and running:
- replace front brake pads & brake fluid
- replace fuel
- remove crappy vacuum petcock and old, hard fuel lines with a straight line to my carbs with a quick disconnect (I'm really excited to see how this turns out)
- replace stock headlight with stronger, brighter bulb (any suggestions before I go to my local Suzuki dealer?)
- replace damaged choke cable
- install quick-connector for my battery tender

One question: I had put in fresh synthetic AMSOIL before the accident. Will it be ok to continue and use after sitting a few months or do I need to change again? I read "AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils are highly resistant to the destructive effects of heat, and do not break down like petroleum oils. This means that AMSOIL Motor Oils can provide much longer drain intervals than conventional lubricants"

[Kerry]

Golly Flash ... you've been MIA since March 12th!

It's great too to see you back.  Good luck on all the mods and maintenance.  

About the AMSOIL - it should be fine.  Run it on through the 3K (4K? 5K? 6K?) miles you were originally planning on.

[Rich500]

Good to see you are back! Hope you dont wreck that thing again anytime soon.
PS-Kerry's posts are classic. Color coded and everything. Damn, I wish I put as much effort into my studies as he puts into his posts.

[The Buddha]

I have fork braces I made last year, sold a few and the rest (2 left for those that want some, and $40+shipping) were forgotten in the stampede of Bars, case savers, billet case covers, eliminators ... but anyway good to hear you have a handle on it... For bulbs... I like the Sylvania's myself, and a 9003 is the same as H4, and hence available at walmart and auto parts places. They also sell some bright stuff like the 130/90 I had on my vulcan, but on a GS I'd caution against higher wattage, cos the headlight comes on when you turn the key, a kawi lights up only on starting.... so a smaller current draw on the battery when alternator isn't running. Also the GS headlight is much better than the vulcan's so a higher wattage isn't needed.
Cool.
Srinath

[Flash]

Sylvania bulbs (model 9003) @ the local Wal-Mart sounds right up my alley. Thanks seshandri_srinath.

Another quick question:
I've read all these posts about "capping" the vacuum lines and the remaining fuel stem (for a straight fuel line to the carbs), but what exactly do I use/buy to cap the fuel line? I've heard vacuum caps thrown around, but are these safe for fuel (won't degrade)? Is there some kind of plug I can buy that is fuel-resistant? If I don't hear of a satisfactory solution I will probably just buy another quick-disconnect for the remaining fuel stem.

Thanks for all the help.

[Kerry]

what exactly do I use/buy to cap the fuel line? I've heard vacuum caps thrown around, but are these safe for fuel (won't degrade)? Is there some kind of plug I can buy that is fuel-resistant?

How about a partially-threaded bolt?  You could screw the entire threaded part into the end of the hose, and then go a few more turns so the smooth shaft would prevent leakage.

Dunno - just a thought.   :dunno:

[The Buddha]

There should be nothign to cap... a Tee fittign... maybe.... cos the tank has the 2 outlets, and carbs have 1 inlet. Sp use a T and hook it up. And cap off the vacuum line in the carbs wiht a vacuum cap.
Cool.
Srinath.

[Kerry]

Why didn't I think of that?  

See http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=79178#79178

EDIT: Changed broken link to a more recent one with similar info.

[Flash]

I was originally trying to find the easiest solution (eliminate the fuel petcock with the least amount of valves and fittings) like the picture diagram posted by Piper5177 http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4228&highlight=quick+disconnect , but the T-connector will definitely work. Thanks again, seshadri_srinath and Kerry.