What can be done to make smoother shift changes?

[karneck]

[excuse all my poor english im brazilian]
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Just chain lubing? I say that based on what happened to me because after i took my gs to the suzuki dealer, they lubed the chain with 50w engine oil, and it came back with the shifts changing as smootly as heaven, but after 3 or for days it became to feel rough and hard to shift again (like it was before the trip to the dealer)...what else can be done to smooth the shifting to its top smoothness? lube it like theres no tomorrow and thats it? I dont have gs mechanic knowledge at all to guess...
perhaps a checkup on the clutch cables... err...etc? :/

[octane]

Can you describe the problem? Sounds more like your chain is binding than a shift problem. First of all, 50wt isn't the best chain lube - it'll fling off pretty quick. Try a commercial chain lube or wax. I actually use Amsoil metal protectant - it sticks on there good. If the chain is binding, it may be time for a new one.

[conradvr]

I disagree on the chain wax and lubes - the stuff stick too well along with any grit etc.  I have switched to using some heavy 90W oil (transmission oil), just apply it with a well soaked rag or bit of foam (don't overdo it), let it sit overnight and it won't make too much mess with a little fling off.  I clean(kero) and lube the chain every 1000kms(600miles) or whenever it looks dry.

For gear shifting, I have found that the type and quality of oil you use has the largest effect on the feel of the gearbox.

The way I see it I would rather have the grit flinging off than sticking onto the chain.

[MarkusN]

Yep. That's the main advantage of the continous lubing systems (Scottoiler and their ilk) that tey allow you to use oils without "stick additives". Keeps the grit away from your chain, and makes the cleanig job a whole lot easier.

[dsmirnov83]

Two things:

1) An oil change will improve the feel of shifting! This is because the oil is shared by the transmission and the engine. The efect lasts for about 1.25K miles. If you don't know when the last time the oil was changed, the change it today.

2)A word on chain lubes. There are lots of thing you can do and lots of ways to do them. The main thing to remember is that your chain comes with sealed o-rings which have built in lubricant, so by lubricating the chain you are prelonging the life of the sprocets, not the chain. I use WD40 and a wire brush to clean the chain (black liquid drips off) and once the chain is clean (no more black liquid) I use a spray-on (can) Kawasaki Chain lube (Nothing sticks to this stuff, so you get ZERO grit build up).
One more thing... do this youself. It's an easy maitenance to do that will teach you about the bike.
Cheers  
-Denis S.

[MarkusN]

2)A word on chain lubes. There are lots of thing you can do and lots of ways to do them. The main thing to remember is that your chain comes with sealed o-rings which have built in lubricant, so by lubricating the chain you are prelonging the life of the sprocets, not the chain. I use WD40 and a wire brush to clean the chain (black liquid drips off) and once the chain is clean (no more black liquid) I use a spray-on (can) Kawasaki Chain lube (Nothing sticks to this stuff, so you get ZERO grit build up).

You are right, and the again you are not. Oil on the chain is as much corrosion protection as it is lubrication. The corrosion protection part is not provided by the dry lube that you are obviously using. Dry lube is fine if you are a fair weather rider. If you are out in the wet as well, you'll definitely want to stick with the more conventional lubes.

[octane]

And not all chains are sealed o-ring. Many of the cheap replacements are not, which is why they don't last as long without frequent lubrication. Learned that the hard way.

[Kerry]

One last thing.  For cleaning the chain I would recommend a brush with non-metal bristles (ie. a discarded toothbrush) unless you're trying to scrape off rust or something.  I can't remember whether the O-rings are exposed at all, but hitting one with a wire bristle can't be good for it.

[karneck]

Thank you all very much!  
That really helped a LOT, for a good time now I was trying to discover a good and reliable way to do that job...
btw, the mechanic at the dealer said something interesting...i asked him whats the best way he knows to lube the chain, he said:
-create a liquid that is 1/2 - 1/2 kero and 90w trans oil to CLEAN
-THEN let it dry
-THEN put JUST the 90w oil to lube, then let it rest for some hours...
at the moment he said it sounded really good

[Ed_in_Az]

Sounds to me like the chain is too tight or bad. There's no reason a chain in good condition, dry or slimy with lube, if adjusted right, should cause any problem shifting.

[jtenright]

I just swapped out my Valvoline Dino 10w-40
for Motul synth 10w-40 for motorcycles and the diff is night and day!

[karneck]

Sounds to me like the chain is too tight or bad. There's no reason a chain in good condition, dry or slimy with lube, if adjusted right, should cause any problem shifting.

hummm...that sounds right.

i'll try say that to my mechanic...thanks!  

[karneck]

Can you describe the problem? Sounds more like your chain is binding than a shift problem. First of all, 50wt isn't the best chain lube - it'll fling off pretty quick. Try a commercial chain lube or wax. I actually use Amsoil metal protectant - it sticks on there good. If the chain is binding, it may be time for a new one.

how can i describe it...
shifting up (1st-2nd-3rd-4th-5th-6th) feels just a litle bit more difficult than the good sense tells it should be...now shifting down (6th-5th-4th-3rd-2nd-1st) its a Buddha Loves You. tecnically speaking, i need to kick down hard like im killing a cockroach to change the gears...very strange :/

[karneck]