Awwww, maaaaan....

[TheMasterRat]

If it's a tiny leak...A POR-15 kit (rust remover/tank sealer kit)  will fill it ...and will get rid of the rust that's in there and give the insinde of the tank a new clean finish ...

ehhh.... define tiny... It will come out in a steady stream maybe 2mm wide at this point if the tank is angled towards the leak.

Is POR-15 available at any local auto store? And what do I do with the full tank of gas that's in it??  :dunno:

[Kerry]

For some other ideas, see the thread I got a visit from the Rust Fairy.  Maybe an auto restoration / body work shop?

As for the gas, hopefully you have a couple good-sized gas cans or a couple cars that need to have their tanks topped off.

[Jared]

Pinhole size or so...and the kit comes with a cloth type patch for sealing the Holes.

It's available online or by phone (I've used it a bunch of times....good stuff- fast shipping).

http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=306

Read the directions sheet  (in PDF..link towards the bottom  of the page.).
It's pretty easy to patch the holes.

[johncam4]

dont have to pass emission in texas

[TheMasterRat]

Well, I ended up just using some quicksteel on it after sanding the area down.

Took it back for a retest and it did even WORSE ( with new plugs ( gap .035 ) and a new air filter.

I guess I'll just spend next weekend tearing apart the carbs and giving them a good cleaning. Other than that, I guess I'm SOL for wanting to ride for a while.


Oh yah, and I got home and found out where the choke was... It was all the way on, but moving it around made ZERO difference in RPMs, so I  assume that it's non-functional and wasn't the cause.

On a more curious note... Anyone know what this switch does?
Between the gauge clusters. Little black toggle switch
  http://members.cox.net/james.taylor5/switch.jpg

It doesn't appear to do anything  :dunno:

[mjm]

....Took it back for a retest and it did even WORSE ( with new plugs ( gap .035 ) and a new air filter....found out where the choke was... It was all the way on, but moving it around made ZERO difference in RPMs, so I  assume that it's non-functional and wasn't the cause.

On a more curious note... Anyone know what this switch does?
Between the gauge clusters. Little black toggle switch
  http://members.cox.net/james.taylor5/switch.jpg:

The switch could be for anything it is not part of the original equipment - might be for an auxiliary light or for heated grips or try following the wiring to see where it goes.

The choke not doing anything could mean it is off or that it is on all the way (which would make the mix way rich and have you fail the test)  My guess is that your bike has been re-jetted and is running too rich to pass.  Stock pilot jets are 37.5, stock main jets were 122.5 or 125 (I think) and the needle should not have any slots for moving the clip thus adjusting the needle hieght.  Of course it takes foever to warm up that way and pops & backfires until completely warm - you may have to restore it to  stock settings to pass the emmissions test.

[Kerry]

Anyone know what this switch does? Between the gauge clusters. Little black toggle switch
  http://members.cox.net/james.taylor5/switch.jpg

It doesn't appear to do anything  :dunno:

All I can say is that it's not a factory-installed feature.

See Stock Gauges (plus clock) Photo and Stock Gauges Diagram.

Does it turn the headlight on & off?

EDIT: Changed link from sisna.com to bbburma.net

[TheMasterRat]

Anyone know what this switch does? Between the gauge clusters. Little black toggle switch
  http://members.cox.net/james.taylor5/switch.jpg

It doesn't appear to do anything  :dunno:

All I can say is that it's not a factory-installed feature.

See Stock Gauges (plus clock) Photo and Stock Gauges Diagram.

Does it turn the headlight on & off?

Nope, doesn't turn the headlight off or on. Near as me or any of my friends can tell, it's as non-functional as my choke

[cummuterguy]

ive seen several used tanks on ebay over the past few months... as to your hydrocarbons... 220 is a bit high for a lean misfire condition, but given that you  have a rusty tank, is it possible that some rust has clogged your fuel lines/filter? might be worth checking before wasting money on another test.

[TheMasterRat]

ive seen several used tanks on ebay over the past few months... as to your hydrocarbons... 220 is a bit high for a lean misfire condition, but given that you  have a rusty tank, is it possible that some rust has clogged your fuel lines/filter? might be worth checking before wasting money on another test.

Actually, here's the actual report on the Hydrocarbons...

Hydrocarbons in PPM ( whatever PPM means. I don't know )

1st Idle Reading - 423
Precond Reading - 533
Precond Standard - 100
Final Reading - 547
Idle Standard - 220

This was on the retest ( which is free )

[Kerry]

PPM = Parts Per Million

I just had another thought.  Have you checked the float heights yet?  From what I've heard, a too-high float level can richen the mixture like a too-big jet.

In case you haven't run across this page before (I've certainly stuffed it down everyone ELSE's throat   ) here's a "How To":

Float Height Check[/list:u]
EDIT: Changed link from sisna.com to bbburma.net

[Blueknyt]

On the road fix for pinhole in gastank, use a bar of soap and rub it over the hole. this will temp plug the leak.  Bar/cake soap would seem doesnt disolve in gasoline, the plug held on my camero fuel tank for better then 200 miles till i could patch it proper.

[TheMasterRat]

Heh...

So I pulled everything out tonight.

There was a dime-sized hole ( at least ) in the vacuum line coming off the bottom of the airbox... Think that may attribute to rough idle and the high hydrocarbons?

I haven't torn apart the carbs yet, that's tomorrow night.

BTW, anyone have a vacuum diagram for these? I kinda have a few "extra" hoses    :dunno:

[Kerry]

A vacuum line coming from the bottom of the airbox?  I only know of a drain hose there.  (See Tuesday's Oil Leak thread.)  My 2nd post has a link to a diagram of the airbox, and the hose that I think you're talking about.

For the correct fuel system hose routing check out this page.

EDIT: Changed link from sisna.com to bbburma.net

[jakers the 1]

FOR THE TANK, Check search for rusty tank and you would get the salt water rebar trick. might be good cheep deruster for you. than the finish Kerry was mentioning. Never heard of any motorcycle needing IM before. What a total jip if it's true. Dam enviros going after bikes now. (2 cylinders dam it!) Can we say Excursion, Giant gas guslin soccer mom wanna be Jeep.WTF

[TheMasterRat]

A vacuum line coming from the bottom of the airbox?  I only know of a drain hose there.  (See Tuesday's Oil Leak thread.)  My 2nd post has a link to a diagram of the airbox, and the hose that I think you're talking about.

For the correct fuel system hose routing check out this page.

Ok, yah. That was the hose. Thanks. Carb cleaning tomorrow  :lol:

Is that vacuum hose connected to left carb ( diagram in oil thread ) supposed to be connected to something? Because I'm not sure mine was. ( other than the left carb that is )

[MarkusN]

That's supposed to be connected to the vacuum petcock. If you replaced that, you should cap the nipple (or squeeze the hose shut). Else your carb sucks air in where it shouldn't.

[TheMasterRat]

Ok, got outta work early Got one of the carbs apart already. The main jet is 122.5, there is a washer on the underside of the clip ( needle is 5DH8 )

Basically gunna bathe it in gumout and lube the slider ( anything else? ) with some 2 stroke oil.

What else should I be looking for / at while I've got em apart?

[Rema1000]

There isn't normally a washer on the needle (unless it has been rejetted).  You might want to remove that for the emissions test.  The pilots (if stock) should be 37.5.  You may also have to lean-out the pilot mix screws, if they have been adjusted.  Also check float hight (unfortunately, I think it is more reliable to check float height with the carbs on the bike, but you can only adjust float height with the carbs off the bike).

The jets and float needle assemply can be soaked, then blown-out in both directions with compressed air.  Use a single nylon bristle to clean if necessary.

[TheMasterRat]

I can't get the pilot gets out. They're really in there, and I don't have a screwdriver that sits right w/o stripping them.

Doesn't seem to be rejetted ( aftermarket anyway ) as the needles do have the stock numbers and only have one clip, but I'll remove the washer.

BTW, how DO I get those white plastic slide supports outta the carb?? They don't want to let go and I don't want to damage anything.

Does anyone here know the stock float height ( in millimeters? ) If the same trick works here, I can just hang the carbs upside down until the floats are at full extension and check them that way.

On a more alarming note... A very small o-ring seems to have manifested from the abyss on my kitchen counter... Only 6-7mm wide ( outer diameter ) but doesn't seem to have a home in the carb  :dunno: