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craigslist vs cycletrader

Started by Phil B, April 25, 2012, 10:14:23 PM

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Phil B

So, what are people's thoughts on craigslist vs cycletrader?

Most of the time I see someone mention a new bike for sale of interest, it's in craigslist. Yet cycletrader seems to be the place I hit the most with google.

Anyone have any experience with both, and want to describe differences?

Seems to me like

1. dealers use cycletrader a lot
2. generally, the pricier bikes end up on cycletrader, not craigslist
3. lots of cheap stuff on craigslist... but then again, more shady stuff on craigslist.

That about sum things up?

00sanchez

Craigslist will find more local sellers while cycle trader isn't used as much, so you wont get many local hits. Yes, there are lemons on craigslist, but if you know the basics of engine mechanics and what to look for as far as bikes that have been laid down and such, you should be good to go. Just remember to not let your impatience or a "good deal" quicken your decision. Don't be fooled by the "I've got another guy coming in an hour" bs either. I bought a bike off CL a while back and the guy pulled that last line on me. I showed up about 10 minutes before the "other guy" was supposed to get there and stayed for about a half an hour looking over the bike. Surprisingly enough, he never showed. I talked him down $500 easily and probably could have gotten more.

tl;dr -- cl is fine if you have basic information on how to spot a bad deal. CT just doesn't have as much local stuff unless you're in a big city.

ohgood

CL= fewer dealers posing as individuals
Cl= more selection

Lemons= on both listings, but CT has more shiny detailed lemons, with higher prices.

Cl has incredible deals, but you have to JUMP on them. People like me watch cl all day to nab the good ones.


tt_four: "and believe me, BMW motorcycles are 50% metal, rubber and plastic, and 50% useless

25knots

One downside to Craigslist is you're limited to searching sellers nearby.  A couple sites help you expand you Craigslist seach, searching multiple cities at a time, variable by distance from your location.
Try http://www.searchtempest.com/
He said that most men are in this life like the carpenter, whose work went so slowly from the dullness of his tools that he had not the time to sharpen them.

Phil B

Well, since I live "in la", the area limit for craigslist isnt bad.

What is bad.... is the skeezy factor.

For example, I checked it out yesterday, and there are two fz6r's on there.

One is  "hey, there's a scratch, from 'when i dropped in the parking lot one time'"
The other is, "there's a dent in the tank, but that's just from when the chain broke one time".

Um.... yeah.  right.
Great.

In contrast, cycletrader has 2 private sellers also, one from a little further away.(but many many dealers, lol)

One guy is selling his bike to buy a home. no scratches.. and is throwing in 2 helmets, and a jacket. for $5200 !


Funderb

I have done a lot of CL shopping, mostly for things involving internal combustion engines.
I imagine CT isn't much different, but does attract more dealers, and institutions.


I would treat them the same. I'd use both, really.

When it comes down to it, in a private transaction, you are at the mercy of the seller's conscience.
You simply cant perform all the tests necessary in a show and tell that you will if you just buy the damn thing and take it apart or ride it.

here's my two stories:

Outboard motors- they see the most abuse of any engine type in existence. I stand by this and will argue to the end of time.
My father and I built a boat, and needed a motor, from 20-40hp.

motor #1: Johnson, '81, 35hp TS
Our "buddy" said:
"oh yeah, its got low hours, only used it in fresh water, its in great shape
and its just too powerful for my little bass boat... hardy harr harr blah blah blah bullshit"
Even started her up and revved it up "real good."

Reality:
Blown head gasket
bad solenoid
all motor mounts broken and destroyed
starter bolt broken
lower unit failure, slipping clutch dogs.

it got to the point where i wanted to paddle out, drop the damn thing in the water and forget about it.
but, with my and my fathers skill, we fixed everything on our own, including re-machining the gears,
and because we hated it, sold it, about even for the original cost and parts. The guy we sold it to has been happy with
it ever since.

Motor #2:
mariner 40hp magnum '91 TS
Seller: "Its been sitting for a while, and probably needs its rubbers all renewed, but it runs now, and has not been used very emphatically. Its a great motor, but my friend wanted something more for the pontoon boat. Im a mechanic, so i did the work, and got this as payment"

Reality:
After laying the motor on its side, crud from the lines and bowls clogged it up. Cleaned the carbs and replaced all the rubber. cost about $20
Lower unit had the shift rod back out one time, but it was easily remedied once we figured out what had happened.
Typical things for a unit that has been sitting in disuse for a while.
Has been running ever since, and starts and runs like a dream.

So here you go, a little anecdote for your consideration. The most important thing about private transactions is doing them, and learning from mistakes, and learning when you're boing lied to. I don't think any venue change will change people as a whole.
Black '98 gs500 k&n Lbox, akrapovic slip-on, kat600 shock, progressive sproings, superbike handlebars, 40/147.5/3.5washers

"I'd rather ride then spend all my time fiddling trying to make it run perfectly." -Bombsquad

"Never let the destination cast a shadow over your journey towards it- live life"

Juan1

As a cheapskate, I prefer CL.  My expensive to obtain, cheap motorcycle buying wisdom:

1. Track Craigslist over a period of time.  Watch the bikes that keep dropping in price.  Sometimes there is a period of time when people simply aren't buying a particular bike, and you'll see a bike's value drop more than it should.  Those are great deals as the seller thinks their bike is priced too high when really it is just on the market at the wrong time of year.

2.  When you meet the owner, try to size the person up.  If the person seems upstanding and honest and the bike is in good condition, great!  If the seller doesn't quite have their life together, interrogate them.  If they have a roommate, ask them a question or two to corroborate the story of the seller if you can.

3.  If you can turn a wrench and can transport it, fantastic deals can be had on non-running bikes.  Most riders shy away from problems.  If you can get a $500 discount on a bike that will take $200 in parts to fix, why wouldn't you buy a non-runner?

4.  When determining a fair price, look at tires, chain, and the sprocket.  I've purchased two $500, unrideable bikes in the last 8 months.  One cost me $700 in parts to make a reliable runner, and one cost $300 in parts to do the same.  The difference?  I had to blow $350 on replacing a tire and chain on the pricier one.

5.  When purchasing a bike that's seen better days, try to perform a compression test on it, and if it runs, check it with a multimeter too.  Sorting out electrical issues on a 20+ year old bike is no fun.

6.  If the bike is for sale near a cool motorcycle shop and the bike has recently been serviced, the guys that run the shop may be able to let you know what they think of the bike. 
1982 Kawi GPZ-750, 1998 GS500.

yellow99

I shopped them both daily for the past 60 days.  Found the bike I eventually bought off of CL.  Excellent comments already mentioned and all correct IMO.

ohgood

Quote from: Phil B on April 26, 2012, 07:06:08 AM
Well, since I live "in la", the area limit for craigslist isnt bad.

What is bad.... is the skeezy factor.

For example, I checked it out yesterday, and there are two fz6r's on there.

One is  "hey, there's a scratch, from 'when i dropped in the parking lot one time'"
The other is, "there's a dent in the tank, but that's just from when the chain broke one time".

Um.... yeah.  right.
Great.

In contrast, cycletrader has 2 private sellers also, one from a little further away.(but many many dealers, lol)

One guy is selling his bike to buy a home. no scratches.. and is throwing in 2 helmets, and a jacket. for $5200 !

The fz6r is a crap bike. Get the fz6. $5200 is 2000 too high, unless its new. LA means higher prices I take it ?

Scratches are nothing. An honest owner will point them out, along with anything else it needs. The guy that says nothing is wrong , or will need attention is lying.

I prefer to find bikes on forums, from people that own them a year or more. You can look and know beforehand what they have asked about and serviced from their previous posts.

Bikes from friends = the best.

I haven't been burned on craigslist, yet.


tt_four: "and believe me, BMW motorcycles are 50% metal, rubber and plastic, and 50% useless

Lidiya

If you don't need something urgently and have time to go check vehicles out and potentially wade through and weed out the waste, craigslist is your best bet.  My husband and I bought three bikes and a car off craiglist, and then sold one bike also on there. All deals went well, we got a fair or better price, and the people we dealt with were normal people (as opposed to the "craigslist crazies").

I imagine the deciding factor should be what it is you're looking for. If it's a GS, which is commonly available, I imagine you're better off with craigslist.

Phil B

Quote from: ohgood on April 26, 2012, 12:21:06 PM

The fz6r is a crap bike. Get the fz6.

And by "crap", you mean "less powerful", I take it?

That's what I want. Better MPG, instead of "moar powah".
The 0-60 in 3.8 seconds on the fz6r, is plenty enough power for me, thanks :)
  (turns out their power curve is similar, but the fz6 just has a higher redline, so "more" hp)

Lower seat height on the 'R' is good for me too.
The fz6 is also allegedly tuned to have a smoother power curve than the N.
Basically, it seems like a 4cyl that acts like a 2cyl :D

I dont want the 20hp more, or the larger tire, on the naked fz6.

The "steel tubular frame" is a bit annoying. But I dont ride in the wet, and keep my bike garaged.


ohgood

Quote from: Phil B on April 26, 2012, 04:19:06 PM
Quote from: ohgood on April 26, 2012, 12:21:06 PM

The fz6r is a crap bike. Get the fz6.

1) And by "crap", you mean "less powerful", I take it?

That's what I want. 2) Better MPG, instead of "moar powah".
[i3) ]The 0-60 in 3.8 seconds on the fz6r, is plenty enough power for me, thanks :)
  (turns out their power curve is similar, but the fz6 just has a higher redline, so "more" hp)[/i]


4) Lower seat height on the 'R' is good for me too.
5) The fz6 is also allegedly tuned to have a smoother power curve than the N.
6) Basically, it seems like a 4cyl that acts like a 2cyl :D

7) I dont want the 20hp more, or the larger tire, on the naked fz6.

8) The "steel tubular frame" is a bit annoying. But I dont ride in the wet, and keep my bike garaged.

1) assumptions make the world go round
2) twist less, it (the fz6 anyway) will get very good mpg, in my experience. it's more fun to see more things along the way too.
3) didn't know that, either one i'm sure is rediculousely quick. 1st gear is illegal if pushed on any non interstate road
4) Excellent. THIS IS THE SELLING POINT for you. go for it.
5) mmm, i believe it was the 08 models that got a remap or better parts. check out the recalls on the 04-05 for throttle bodys or sensors. it's still covered, no charge.
6) i dunno, a twist means it will gooooOOOOO !!!!!!!
7) don't worry, you (like i) prolly won't be in the upper range of it's possible HP much. using just 75% of either bike's potential means a track day.
8) this is the part i meant about it being crap. rust is our enemy. even bikes not ridden in the rain suffer from it. maybe the fz doesn't suffer from frame flex in the steel version, i dunno. the engine as a stressed member surely helps.


if you're looking at newer bikes, consider the fz8. at least get test rides of all three. if you do purchse one of these, look into a 1" up and back bar riser to get the real standard ergos. i bet you wil really like that.

if you're considering older bikes, don't let the examples with high miles scare you off. there are serious bargains to be had. i wouldn't hesitate to buy one with 30, 40, or even 70,000 miles on it. they are incredibly cheap for the performance, and are known to run 100,000 miles without issue.

:-)


tt_four: "and believe me, BMW motorcycles are 50% metal, rubber and plastic, and 50% useless

fraze11

or you could live in my part of the world where people post stuff like this that makes you say whaaaaaaaaaaat??!!  :cookoo:

http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-motorcycles-sport-bikes-Suzuki-GS-500-W0QQAdIdZ374810065

2009 GS500F, 2003 CBR F4i

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