Thanks for the encouragement... this trailer is currently fitted to a 600cc using a car tow bar that is attached via brackets that are supported by the rear sub frame and has been used  llike that for years. I hope to get the tow bar and the attachments which a local garage can adapt to the gs..... but first it will need some tidying up , the trailer is working with wireing and good tyres, bearings etc ... but  crusty here and there  and my gs is getting tisyer by the week so the trailer needs to look smartish as well .... Cheers folks . Assuming all goes well I will post a shot when the shebang is all cobbled and useable... 

Ok... I will give my perspective as well.

My GS came with organic pads ... the first weekend that I went for a little fun... the brake faded.. Feels like that there is oil on your front rotor... very scary!

HOWEVER, if you don't ride hard... is not a big deal ...you will be fine with organic.

I maintained the organic on the rear brake as many of you have done!.. works great!

I just use rear brake when riding within the city for maneuvers, hills... parking, etc...

I try to avoid rear braking when a hard brake is needed... IS VERY difficult to modulate front and rear braking separately at the same time! our brain does not like it! Usually locking the rear way earlier than the front... not stopping as the bike could and taking us down!  Our foot is not accurate to apply pressure in a panic situation!
So... I prefer to stay ONLY on the front brake... knowing what I am doing and reacting properly if the bike starts to lock the front.

I don't Furling care if the pads will eat my rotors..  they are not meant to last forever...

In reality, you do not have a choice:
 if you ride hard (brake hard as well)   HH is imperative...

If you go for a pleasantly smooth ride.. organic will do for sure!

It's time. After two years with my lovely GS500E, Goose, I've moved on to an FZ6R that will be better suited to the highways my new school commute will expose me to.

Craigslist ad: https://post.craigslist.org/k/5ELF68vQ6BG-LqH0PM-5yw/ufL1Q?s=preview&lang=en&cc=us

I'm selling my 96 Suzuki GS500E. I purchased the bike 9/11/2016 with about 3000 miles on it, and have put 6500 on it since. I think I am the 3rd owner. Custom paint, as well as several upgrades to the front brakes and suspension done by JPH Suspension. A great learner bike! Easy to ride and easy to wrench on. Carbs rebuilt in Jan/Feb, oil change in Feb, new air filter and petcock and spark plugs in Jan, fuel lines changed in March, brake fluid changed in May, and new battery sometime in 2017 (I don't remember exactly when).

Upgrades:
Custom galaxy paint (both fairings, front fender, gas tank)
Steel braided brake line
Fork emulators
R6 adjustable rear shock
Master cylinder

Comes with:
Original fairings (black)
Gas tank cover

Damage:
Broken right mirror
Running lean -- fuel-air mixture needs attention
Small tear in the seat (see pics)

Text me at 831-264-7500 with questions or to come to look at the bike.

Asking $1400, but willing to negotiate.

I replaced the plugs and it ran much better until it got hot. The inside of the muffler still got orange red hot but took longer. I think one of the plugs were bad so it was running one cylinder and burning all that fuel from one side in the muffler.
Since it ran really well and on both cylinders until it got hot I think a coil might be bad and weaken as it gets hot. I’m going to try running it once it cools down and see if that helps. Has anyone had a bad coil kill a spark plug?

I’ve worked on bikes and engines for years but I can’t get the GS500 to run right.
2007 GS500f with only 1800 miles.

Before the carb rebuild the float needle center pin was stuck in the the needle  essentially making the floats set higher. This was making the engine flood very quickly. Wet plugs.

I’ve rebuilt the carbs, set float height(13mm)and checked that I have the little O ring under the diaphragm cover. I didn’t replace diaphragms because they seem good and I left the carbs together because the fuel inlet T wasn’t leaking. Fuel mixture screw set at 2.5

So the bike seemed to run fine so my next step was to go through the warm up procedure mentioned here and get the air mixture set and the idle where is should be. Starting on choke it would go to 3-4K like everyone says it should. After a minute I ride off through the neighborhood.

I’d say after about 7-10 minutes I loop back by the house to check on everything. I’m getting some backfireing. Not a load crack like sometimes when you shut an engine off and start back immediately but just a consistently louder exhaust note than at cold start up. I can see the inside of the muffler is red-orange hot! But the headers are still black.

From what I understand the PAIR system routes clean air into the exhaust to finish burning any fuel.
The plugs are black so I’m guessing it’s rich and making the muffler a second combustion chamber.
I can ride it long enough to get it “fully warm” to start adjusting the carbs before the muffler starts cooking

I haven’t checked the ignition timing or the valves but I wouldn’t suspect that because of the low miles and if the valves or timing was making the exhaust red hot the headers would be red too?
What could be making it run like this?