Recent Posts

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California eh? damn I'm a little jealous :laugh:. Today topped out at about 60F degrees here in frosty Alberta, I might be able to squeeze
one more month out of the season. Anyhow that's good news, give us some more info/pics when you get a chance.  :cheers:

Also, I managed to get a hold of a set of NOS revised camshafts that they used on the 2006+ bikes. The install is not that difficult and it
completely eliminates the walking-cam noise; so it's definitely a fixable issue. I got pretty lucky finding NOS cams that came as kits, complete
with the special wave washers (from a seller in Israel no less). But, if your bike has the issue, a low-mile used set from a 2006+ bike would be
a great upgrade and really worth it for what is basically a brand-new old bike.
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General GS500 Discussion / Re: how to check if i have a burnt exhaust valve?
« Last post by herennow on September 15, 2021, 11:00:34 PM »
As I said Carbide drill bit gone in three days with warm solution (not boiling), there was a great write up on Practical machinist blog, but its lost when they upgraded the forum.

I did keep drilling after that as the bolt was stainless, eventually was able to pick out the last bits and just put in a stud permanently.

Ill see if I can find any pics, it was some years ago.
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Enjoy!!!!
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For Sale / For Trade / Wanted / Hot Deals / Re: F/S ~ GSXR1100 rear set adapters
« Last post by weedahoe on September 15, 2021, 08:00:34 PM »
I think I still have them. Theyre in a box in my shop somewhere ;)
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For Sale / For Trade / Wanted / Hot Deals / Re: Free Haynes manual
« Last post by Yakitwin726 on September 15, 2021, 07:57:57 PM »
Is this still available?
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For Sale / For Trade / Wanted / Hot Deals / Re: F/S ~ GSXR1100 rear set adapters
« Last post by Yakitwin726 on September 15, 2021, 07:57:15 PM »
Are these still available?
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General GS500 Discussion / Re: Resurrecting a lowered 2005 GS500 with less than 1000 miles
« Last post by z315 on September 15, 2021, 01:00:08 PM »
Hello z315 :)

Depending on how and where it was stored you may not need to replace every o-ring etc. I bought a similar 2005 last year with just 480kms (under 300 miles).
It was stored in a heated shop and so far I haven't had any problems with leaking carbs, etc. I'm thinking that Mikuni was probably using nitrile o-rings and gaskets
by the 2000's, to be compatible with the ethanol blended fuels we have these days, and they are much more durable.

I didn't even clean my carbs. Modern fuels are pretty stable. I use Shell V-power with no ethanol. The stuff is clear as water and smells more like
solvent than gasoline. Back in the day, if you stored the bike with fuel in the bowls it would evaporate and leave orange tar/scum at the bottom, which
would dissolve in the fresh gas and break up into chunks which could clog up the pilot jets and maybe even the mains.

That being said, I would not even open the carbs to look unless I had a new set of bowl gaskets on hand, as the old ones will be flattened and might not
seal up a 2nd time.

My advice (pass the salt!)
First, drain the tank to get rid of any stale gas, then get a flashlight and inspect the inside of the tank for rust. If it looks ok add about a gallon of fresh
premium. Set the petcock to prime and let it sit, check for leaks at the carbs. If nothing leaks, your floats (needle and seat valve) are probably ok. Using the drain screws
on the sides of the float bowls drain a pint or so fuel from each carb into a clean, clear glass jar: check for crud/discoloration. It you don't see any solids you are probably fine.

Next, pull the plugs and spray a good squirt of WD40 into each cylinder (not too much, about 3 seconds worth) and let sit (open) for an hour. I recommend WD40 instead of oil, as
it will burn away very quickly and not foul up your plugs as easily. Next you can rotate the engine manually a few cycles with the plugs still out, and then using the starter
for a few seconds to blast out any left over WD. Replace the plugs/wires, add some more fuel if you need it and start 'er up.

Because it's an '05 you may notice that once fully warmed up after riding, the bike will make a knocking sound at idle that disappears at higher rpm. This is called by various names
"cam-knock", "walking-cam-knock" etc. The main thing to remember here is that it is very common for the 04/05 models and is not the result of damage, nor is it damaging to your engine.
(I think this is why you and I both "scored" ultra-low-mile 15/16 year old bikes.) But you can cross that bridge when you come to it.
Cheers.

Wonderful advice. Thank you! The bike was kept in a garage and under a cover. The bike is in California so things SHOULD be ok. But will start with the simple stuff as you suggested before I start tearing stuff down. Will keep you guys posted! hopefully I'll have some time to work on it this weekend.
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General GS500 Discussion / Re: how to check if i have a burnt exhaust valve?
« Last post by mentalshark on September 15, 2021, 10:29:34 AM »
Alum, no, I would try whiskey.

Now, How does it work.

Get me some whiskey and I'll not worry about it.

Seriously, I have drilled them out - by taking off the whole front end, and sitting in the space wteh front end was and using left hand drills and going slow. Then tapped it to the next size up - a sae 5/16th IIRC.

Cool.
Buddha.

Haha yea I am also skeptical about this, because in theory if something that works this well would become widely known thanks to the internet. Now, I am not saying this won't work at all, I have been doing some research on this topic for a bit and there have been a few cases where some watchmakers do this to dissolve broken off the crown stem, with the crown being stainless steel and stem being.... copper? it appears to work on ferrous metal or more reactive metal but not stainless steel. anyway, I thought it'd be interesting to at least give it a shot since alum is not expensive, and there are rusty bolts, broken drill bits and broken hearts laying on my garage floor.

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Hello z315 :)

Depending on how and where it was stored you may not need to replace every o-ring etc. I bought a similar 2005 last year with just 480kms (under 300 miles).
It was stored in a heated shop and so far I haven't had any problems with leaking carbs, etc. I'm thinking that Mikuni was probably using nitrile o-rings and gaskets
by the 2000's, to be compatible with the ethanol blended fuels we have these days, and they are much more durable.

I didn't even clean my carbs. Modern fuels are pretty stable. I use Shell V-power with no ethanol. The stuff is clear as water and smells more like
solvent than gasoline. Back in the day, if you stored the bike with fuel in the bowls it would evaporate and leave orange tar/scum at the bottom, which
would dissolve in the fresh gas and break up into chunks which could clog up the pilot jets and maybe even the mains.

That being said, I would not even open the carbs to look unless I had a new set of bowl gaskets on hand, as the old ones will be flattened and might not
seal up a 2nd time.

My advice (pass the salt!)
First, drain the tank to get rid of any stale gas, then get a flashlight and inspect the inside of the tank for rust. If it looks ok add about a gallon of fresh
premium. Set the petcock to prime and let it sit, check for leaks at the carbs. If nothing leaks, your floats (needle and seat valve) are probably ok. Using the drain screws
on the sides of the float bowls drain a pint or so fuel from each carb into a clean, clear glass jar: check for crud/discoloration. It you don't see any solids you are probably fine.

Next, pull the plugs and spray a good squirt of WD40 into each cylinder (not too much, about 3 seconds worth) and let sit (open) for an hour. I recommend WD40 instead of oil, as
it will burn away very quickly and not foul up your plugs as easily. Next you can rotate the engine manually a few cycles with the plugs still out, and then using the starter
for a few seconds to blast out any left over WD. Replace the plugs/wires, add some more fuel if you need it and start 'er up.

Because it's an '05 you may notice that once fully warmed up after riding, the bike will make a knocking sound at idle that disappears at higher rpm. This is called by various names
"cam-knock", "walking-cam-knock" etc. The main thing to remember here is that it is very common for the 04/05 models and is not the result of damage, nor is it damaging to your engine.
(I think this is why you and I both "scored" ultra-low-mile 15/16 year old bikes.) But you can cross that bridge when you come to it.
Cheers.
10
General GS500 Discussion / Re: how to check if i have a burnt exhaust valve?
« Last post by The Buddha on September 14, 2021, 02:48:09 PM »
Alum, no, I would try whiskey.

Now, How does it work.

Get me some whiskey and I'll not worry about it.

Seriously, I have drilled them out - by taking off the whole front end, and sitting in the space wteh front end was and using left hand drills and going slow. Then tapped it to the next size up - a sae 5/16th IIRC.

Cool.
Buddha.
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