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Bleeder tool for bleeding brake fluid?

Started by BikerBoy, June 10, 2018, 01:14:02 PM

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BikerBoy

Does anyone have any suggestions for the bleeder tool for changing brake fluid? I had heard this mini bleeder is pretty easy to use, but Im not sure if 8mm size will fit well: https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0482-Mini-Bleeder/dp/B0077QSGFG

I also see bleeder screws but Im not sure if those will work. Any recommendations?

Kookas

#1
I looked at tools for my first bleed job a few weeks back, but in the end people said it was so easy with just a clear hose (some aquarium tubing will work - you may need to stretch it a little with e.g. a screwdriver before it will go on) and a plastic bottle and they were right. You pull the lever slightly, open the bleeder, then pull it all the way and close the bleeder, release the lever and repeat till no bubbles are coming through.

You don't need anything to stop air going back in, just don't release the lever with the nipple open and you'll be good.

That said, a vacuum bleeder supposedly makes the job a lot quicker and less tedious, which might be welcome as it does get a bit tiresome!

alpo

Clear tubing with one end on the bleeder and the other end in a container is the cheapest route. Cover the end in the container with some brake fluid, so air doesn't get sucked back into the caliper.

A Mitivac is a modest investment and makes bleeding brakes a lot easier. Attach the tube to the bleeder, crack the bleeder open and pump until the fluid comes out clear with no bubbles.

Either way keep an eye on the reservoir. Don't let it run dry.

Joolstacho

If you have a stubborn system, reverse bleed it.
You connect a 50ml syringe to the bleed nipple with tubing, crack it open, and force fluid UP the line to the master cylinder.
Forces any air up and out more effectively.
You will need to find the lever position where the return hole in the cylinder is open and fix it there, so the fluid can go through into the reservoir,
and you'll need to drain the reservoir up top as you go so it doesn't overflow. I use another syringe.
Beam me up Scottie....

philward

I like a plastic peanut butter jar for brake bleeding.  Its squat shape really helps stop it from being knocked over.

I drill two holes in the top - one that is the exact size of the tubing (so it's a squeeze fit) and a second very small (~1mm) air hole to let the pressure out.  This was if it does get knocked or fall over no fluid escapes.

Here's a picture from the other weekend when I did all the brake and clutch lines on my and my partners bikes.

https://imgur.com/a/YaEYInR

One thing to watch is that it's easy for the tubing to work itself off the bleed nipple especially if it gets lubed up a bit with fluid.

Formerly:
'05 GS500F
fairingless, twin dominator headlights, MC case-guards, alu pegs, alu bar-ends, Yoshi TRS + K&N RU-2970 (22.5/65/147.5), twin Stebel HF80/2 horns, fenderectomy, Oxford HotGrips

Currently:
Honda CBF1000

BikerBoy

Quote from: philward on June 10, 2018, 06:20:49 PM
I like a plastic peanut butter jar for brake bleeding.  Its squat shape really helps stop it from being knocked over.

I drill two holes in the top - one that is the exact size of the tubing (so it's a squeeze fit) and a second very small (~1mm) air hole to let the pressure out.  This was if it does get knocked or fall over no fluid escapes.

Here's a picture from the other weekend when I did all the brake and clutch lines on my and my partners bikes.

https://imgur.com/a/YaEYInR

One thing to watch is that it's easy for the tubing to work itself off the bleed nipple especially if it gets lubed up a bit with fluid.
Thats a good idea. Other posters have mentioned just needing the basic tools for this job and that working well, so I'll probably try it their way. Just need to run by autozone for some dot 4 brake fluid. Any suggestions on brands, or is it all the same? Thank you guys

Watcher

#6
Here is a cool little tool that I think makes the job easiest to do.

It's a check valve, it only allows flow in one direction.  Cheaper than a vacuum tool, you don't have to keep going back and forth to the reservoir to add fluid, and no going back and forth to open/close the bleeder either.  Stick the tube on the bleeder screw, drain into a container, open the bleeder, then just sit/stand there at the lever and pump while adding fluid until no more bubbles come out.
"The point of a journey is not to arrive..."

-Neil Peart

Kookas

Quote from: philward on June 10, 2018, 06:20:49 PM
I like a plastic peanut butter jar for brake bleeding.  Its squat shape really helps stop it from being knocked over.

That's one way to do it. I go through tons of plastic milk containers so I used one of them for mine, but they are quite tall so I chucked some random crap in there to weigh it down (including the old brake pads). I also put two holes in the lid - for me, the second was just so I could stick the other end of the hose back when I'm not using it, but I guess it also doubles as an air hole when in use.

tobyd

I tried a mitivac and whilst its a cool tool it seemed to suck air past the threads in the bleed nipple the moment I applied more than a tiny bit of vacuum. Just a constant stream of tiny bubbles but no air being removed from the system. My bleed nipples are not great though.

I just did the tube and a jar open, pump, close, repeat thing. for ages.

Toner

Quote from: BikerBoy on June 10, 2018, 01:14:02 PM
Does anyone have any suggestions for the bleeder tool for changing brake fluid? I had heard this mini bleeder is pretty easy to use, but Im not sure if 8mm size will fit well: https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0482-Mini-Bleeder/dp/B0077QSGFG

I also see bleeder screws but Im not sure if those will work. Any recommendations?

I bought a pair of stahlbus Bleeder Valves, for the front and rear. They make them for the gs500.
Very useful, just pump pump pump and job is done. None of this faffing about with a 10mm spanner while your're pumping the brakes.
http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/operation
Got mine on ebay, not sure where you get them now as I cannot see any on there.

Also bought a vacuum hand pump like this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAND-VACUUM-PUMP-HELD-BRAKE-BLEEDER-TESTER-SET-BLEED-CAR-MOTORBIKE-BLEEDING-E0Q4/282911856635?epid=15017463244&hash=item41dedc57fb:g:L9EAAOSwjpRaxPJp


Works really well.

alpo

Speed Bleeders are also a great option. Really easy to use. Attach your hose, crack the bleeder, pump away. I have them on a couple of bikes and they work really well.


user11235813

#11
Brilliant, I'm getting one of them as it's time to do the brake fluid, and the open nut, squeeze close nut, release rinse and repeat with the help of an assistant making sure the reservoir is topped up and then continuing for another 10 minutes until every tiny bubble is gone is easy to do but is frankly a PITA and a literal pain in the back too.

$35 plus $8  shipping if bought in Australia ROLF, I can buy it from the USA with shipping for $10 less, but I'm pretty confident that this Chinese knock off is going to do the job just as well. I mean sweet baby jeezus, it's just a valve and it's only for 10 minutes of usage, I'm confident that this is within the technical capabilities of the Chinese! https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aluminium-Rubber-Motion-Pro-Hydraulic-Motorcycle-Brake-Bleeder-Tool-AU/273158716287

Quote from: Watcher on June 11, 2018, 12:19:43 AM
Here is a cool little tool that I think makes the job easiest to do.

It's a check valve, it only allows flow in one direction.  Cheaper than a vacuum tool, you don't have to keep going back and forth to the reservoir to add fluid, and no going back and forth to open/close the bleeder either.  Stick the tube on the bleeder screw, drain into a container, open the bleeder, then just sit/stand there at the lever and pump while adding fluid until no more bubbles come out.

BikerBoy

#12
Quote from: Toner on June 11, 2018, 02:23:32 PM
Quote from: BikerBoy on June 10, 2018, 01:14:02 PM
Does anyone have any suggestions for the bleeder tool for changing brake fluid? I had heard this mini bleeder is pretty easy to use, but Im not sure if 8mm size will fit well: https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0482-Mini-Bleeder/dp/B0077QSGFG

I also see bleeder screws but Im not sure if those will work. Any recommendations?

I bought a pair of stahlbus Bleeder Valves, for the front and rear. They make them for the gs500.
Very useful, just pump pump pump and job is done. None of this faffing about with a 10mm spanner while your're pumping the brakes.
http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/operation
Got mine on ebay, not sure where you get them now as I cannot see any on there.

Also bought a vacuum hand pump like this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAND-VACUUM-PUMP-HELD-BRAKE-BLEEDER-TESTER-SET-BLEED-CAR-MOTORBIKE-BLEEDING-E0Q4/282911856635?epid=15017463244&hash=item41dedc57fb:g:L9EAAOSwjpRaxPJp


Works really well.
That looks like the way to go. So you pump out all the old fluid with the ebay pump (from the top reservoir), then pour the new fluid in, seal the top off reservoir off, then purge the air through the bottom end with the stalhbus screw?

I believe I found the screw for sale here in America: https://www.stahlbus-us.com/stahlbus-bleeder-valve-m7x10x16mm-steel.html

This website identified the size of the screw (M7X1.0X16 MM), I suppose its the same size for both wheels: https://www.louis.eu/artikel/stahlbus-brake-bleeding-skrew-with-check-valve-fuer-suzuki-gs-500-f/10002856?filter_bike_id=1171&filter_article_number=10002855

Toner

Quote from: BikerBoy on June 13, 2018, 01:07:24 PM
Quote from: Toner on June 11, 2018, 02:23:32 PM
Quote from: BikerBoy on June 10, 2018, 01:14:02 PM
Does anyone have any suggestions for the bleeder tool for changing brake fluid? I had heard this mini bleeder is pretty easy to use, but Im not sure if 8mm size will fit well: https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0482-Mini-Bleeder/dp/B0077QSGFG

I also see bleeder screws but Im not sure if those will work. Any recommendations?

I bought a pair of stahlbus Bleeder Valves, for the front and rear. They make them for the gs500.
Very useful, just pump pump pump and job is done. None of this faffing about with a 10mm spanner while your're pumping the brakes.
http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/operation
Got mine on ebay, not sure where you get them now as I cannot see any on there.

Also bought a vacuum hand pump like this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAND-VACUUM-PUMP-HELD-BRAKE-BLEEDER-TESTER-SET-BLEED-CAR-MOTORBIKE-BLEEDING-E0Q4/282911856635?epid=15017463244&hash=item41dedc57fb:g:L9EAAOSwjpRaxPJp


Works really well.
That looks like the way to go. So you pump out all the old fluid with the ebay pump (from the top reservoir), then pour the new fluid in, seal the top off reservoir off, then purge the air through the bottom end with the stalhbus screw?

I believe I found the screw for sale here in America: https://www.stahlbus-us.com/stahlbus-bleeder-valve-m7x10x16mm-steel.html

This website identified the size of the screw (M7X1.0X16 MM), I suppose its the same size for both wheels: https://www.louis.eu/artikel/stahlbus-brake-bleeding-skrew-with-check-valve-fuer-suzuki-gs-500-f/10002856?filter_bike_id=1171&filter_article_number=10002855

I flush it from the valve using the vacuum gun IIRC. Don't think it would doing it from the reservoir.

alpo

Pull it through the bleeder. A really hot setup is to push fresh fluid through the reservoir, but doing that requires a lot of extra equipment.

tobyd

as much of a total pain as it would be and I'm too lazy to go out and look, could the entire back brake system; caliper to reservoir be removed from the bike as a single unit?

Would make bleeding it an awful lot easier at the back if the reservoir could be strung up vertical from the caliper. As it sits there is barely any cause for trapped air to move to the highest point in the system, it being not that much higher than the rear caliper itself?

the front practically bleeds itself.

Kookas

#16
Quote from: tobyd on June 15, 2018, 01:22:38 PM
as much of a total pain as it would be and I'm too lazy to go out and look, could the entire back brake system; caliper to reservoir be removed from the bike as a single unit?

Would make bleeding it an awful lot easier at the back if the reservoir could be strung up vertical from the caliper. As it sits there is barely any cause for trapped air to move to the highest point in the system, it being not that much higher than the rear caliper itself?

the front practically bleeds itself.

I just went down and checked because if that could be done it would be great for me. I'll probably replace the whole rear caliper soon since it needs bled but the bleeder is seized solid and what with the seals not being available and all I may as well just get something better off eBay.

Unfortunately, there's no way you're going to get the reservoir through the frame with the hose still attached.

My main concern is that without the bleed nipple, I've got to find another way to drain the back brake without getting the brake fluid on everything. I suspect I'll have to remove the caliper with the hose still on, then remove the pads and then finally wrap it in a carrier bag and detach the hose.

tobyd

I think if you remove the black wheel guard thing you should have plenty of clearance - at least when I looked earlier it seemed like you should.

I *believe* its only held on by two bolts either side and one behind the battery tray (its a screw but with a bolt head). I even recall it comes out without needing to remove much else.

You might also then have better access on the bleed nipple to unseize it.

or at the very least you can make an awful brake fluidy mess somewhere away from your paintwork!


alpo

Brakes are bled by pressure, not by gravity.

The rear on a GS500 is easy to bleed. Put a rag around the reservoir to catch any spills.

I have yet to encounter a bleeder that is "seized solid". Generally an 8mm wrench will loosen them. If it's really too tight to turn tap the wrench with a hammer. If that doesn't work grab the bleeder with some Vice-grips as a last resort. Brake bleed nipples are inexpensive - if you ruin it with Vice-grips it is simple to replace.

J_Walker

get a spare cap to your reservoirs. drill a hole in them and add a little nipple or oneway valve. use the vacuum hand pump bleeder to bleed air out... I do it this way all the time. don't forget to bungee the brake lever "in" before you start drawing a vacuum.
-Walker

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