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It's normal for it to stay running with the battery disconnected.  Evidence that your charging system is working properly. 

It's not normal for the wiring to get hot though.  Electrical current always creates heat but if the wires are noticeably hot it indicates that either the wires are too small, you have a short somewhere, or that there is some resistance.  Corrosion is the most likely cause.  Corrosion can cause resistance in the wire, low voltage at the battery, and even the intermittent failure that you're experiencing.  There could also be an open (corroded?) ground that's forcing additional ground current to go through a different ground point and causing those wires to heat up. 

Separately, are your carbs running rich?  This would fit your symptoms of stalling out as it warms up, and starting again once you clear the plugs.
Hi there,
Sorry to hear about your crash.
I hope you are feeling better.
I'd be interessted in the milled chainguard from AdidasGuy.
Also in the gel seat.
How much would you like for them?
While the clocks are gone, do you still have the yellow, blue, red and green idiot light lenses from the instrument bracket?
I'd be interested in them.
I live in PA.
If your charging voltage drops to 12.8V you will simply not be getting enough to charge a standard battery (between 12.9 to 14.1V depending on your volts/cell requirements). Add some RPMs into the mix and the coils will get greedy and rob too much from the system.

Have you replaced the regulator? It is likely to have suffered a beating with your Stator having fried - have had similar issues with Suzuki regulators being a bit weedy and can lose the ability to regulate appropriately once cooked through undervoltage effects.

The warm cable from your fully charged battery is more likely to be the current draw to supplement the regulator output in driving the headlight (60/55W) + (5/21W) - ~60W of lighting is going to try pulling 5A. see below Have you tried measuring the current draw while it's running? if you are seeing about 6A being drawn from the battery while idling it would be likely that the regulator has pegged it.

Will chuck a DC clip on meter to my bike tonight when I get home and post some Battery Amps/V/RPM figures if that helps.

Found this linky for an 'E' model that possibly may be of use


Measuring the voltage at the battery terminals I see the following (Fluke 87 - DC Volts (RMS))
14.45V @1500 rpm
14.10V @ 2500 rpm
13.99V @ 3000 rpm
13.91V @ 3500 rpm
13.66V @ 4000 rpm
13.42V @ 4500rpm
13.68V @ 5000 rpm (bit of bouncing around above 4500rpm)
13.59V @ 5500 rpm
seems to sit about 13.55V and 13.7V above 5000 rpm.

Key on - not running - acc. draw 5.3A (no mods)
~2A draw on idle - (clip on DC RMS ammeter).  leave it running and the current eventually stabilizes to zero amps.

Took some scope shots - but no great surprises -
On idle (1500 rpm for me) - current waveform shows a modest train of charge transients - coils easily being supplied.
At 3000 rpm, current waveform is a mix of idle + 5000 rpm waveform.  noticeable clipping on half the engine cycles, with the system appearing to be in balance (RMS power value to the battery approaches zero).
At 5000 rpm, the current waveform shows sharp transients from the CDI / coils.  but still a net gain to the battery.

Hopefully this helps  :icon_idea:
Odds n Ends / Re: I bought a new bike - a Yamaha SCR950
« Last post by Cal Price on December 09, 2018, 02:18:25 PM »
Interesting project, be fascinated to know how you tackle the slippery A$$$ / Saddle problem, I don't recommend sandpaper for either mate.
Hi guys, i have news. Good or bad i don't know  :technical:

Long story short with the engine running and the lights off i have 14v charging the battery, with the lights on it goes down to 12.8 and then it slowly drains the battery. Could it be the regulator not "feeling" the load and not regulating the voltage accordingly?

Also i found some wires (circled in red in the picture) warm to the touch right behind the battery. I removed the tape and found out it's the ground that collects 3 different ground wires from the entire bike and then connects to the negative of the battery. Could you guys check if your bike does this too? I measured with a thermocouple and it was around 40C/104F.
I don't know if it's normal or not...

Also another thing: when fiddling with the bike trying to understand the problem, i disconnected the negative pole of the battery with the engine running and it kept idling fine... is this normal?

 :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:
General GS500 Discussion / Re: 1998 GS500e dying when put into gear after regular tune-up
« Last post by Ted on December 08, 2018, 10:18:56 PM »
I had the same problem lately (well, when it was still riding weather). If it's not the centre stand switch, you might want to check the clutch lock-out switch on the left handlebar. I guess the one prong keeps you from starting the bike with the clutch in, the other makes sure the bike stalls when you put it in gear.  I put some dielectric grease on the connectors and crimped them a bit tighter, it fixed it okay.

Still not sure why it only stalled when dropping it into first right after starting it up, but not second or third (etc) or when taking off again at a stop sign, but I stopped caring, as long as it didn't happen again.;topic=72681.0;attach=3337;image
For Sale / For Trade / Wanted / Hot Deals / 1995 GS500E for parts - Seattle Area
« Last post by de-lectronic on December 07, 2018, 07:08:21 PM »
Hey friends! Just recovering from a bad wreck, and as much as I would love to repair her, I need the funds... I know this community will put the parts to good use! Had about 37k miles, rejetted to lunchbox/V&H.

Parts that may be of interest:
-OEM Gel seat, acquired from Patrick years ago (RIP adidasguy :sad: ); has a small crack in the leather but otherwise amazing upgrade
- OEM clip-on bracket (right bar is bent)
- Custom Chainguard (also from adidasguy)
- White E-model tank with aftermarket cap; leak- and dent-free; never got to install

What's wrecked:
- Forks tubes are toast; front rim has a dent now. BUT both tires are Dunlop GPR300 with only ~500 miles
- Stator cover is cracked
- Tank is dented and has a very slight leak
- Clocks are gone
- V&H Supersport has a lot of rash but still sounds amazing; No bracket though

 Make an offer and I will do my best to hobble out in the cold ASAP to pull and ship!


Odds n Ends / Motorsport Aftermarket Group
« Last post by mr72 on December 07, 2018, 02:38:36 PM »
I was directed to this when I got a puzzling notification via UPS "Smart Choice" (a service that provides tracking details by email for anything destined to your address). The notification said I was getting something from "Vance & Hines", which is a brand I recognized but also I knew I wasn't expecting anything from Vance & Hines.

A little bit of digging and I found this:

Just thought that was interesting, the parent company for V&H along with so many other brands including retailers, many of which we might normally guess were competitors. I mean, who would have guessed that Kuryakyn and BikeMaster share the same parent company?

[BTW this solved my mystery, I think I am really expecting Progressive Suspension parts and not V&H]
Odds n Ends / Re: Anime?
« Last post by qcbaker on December 05, 2018, 01:20:57 PM »
I started watching the Castlevania anime on Netflix recently. Its very good so far. Maybe I'll write a longer impression when I finish it, all I really have to say now is if you like Castlevania, and you like anime, you'll like this.

Finished Castevania last night. I thought it was great. My only complaint is that the pacing felt a bit too fast. Other than that, I loved it. Definitely recommended.
Tard Farm / Re: Last Post Wins - V3
« Last post by yamahonkawazuki on December 05, 2018, 02:04:42 AM »
Doc wants me in a powerchair to take strain off of whats left of legs. Pt thinks otherwise. So may be a bit of a gripe. Saving to buy neighbors old electric. Powerchair. 300 in working order really isn't that bad. This will wipe me out first of next month. No qorries though.
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