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General GS500 Discussion / Re: repairing rusty fork tubes
« Last post by RichDesmond on Today at 03:04:25 AM »
You need new tubes. There isn't any fix (short of re-chroming) that's going to last.
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Agree with leaving the seals alone if they're not leaking. I've had fork seals last over 50K miles on some bikes.

It's a good idea to carefully inspect the leading edge of the tubes, you'll likely find some very small pits or dings. It's those nicks and dings that tear up the sealing edges and cause the seals to leak. Get some extra fine steel wool and lightly buff the tubes.

Changing the oil will help some. The fork springs are still going to be very soft though.
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General GS500 Discussion / Bike only runs on prime !?
« Last post by Sutty.89 on Today at 02:27:07 AM »
First of all Hi!, I'm new here, Aussie, owner of 2005 gs500f.

I have an interesting and perplexing issue. I have read a bunch of posts with similar problems, but the solution for them has not worked for myself.

The bike only runs on prime - try running on 'on' then it conks out once the float bowls are too low. The fuel tap with the vacume valve is working. Took it off, dismantled, cleaned and checked diaphragms, no issues, reassembled, suck on vacume valve and seal it with finger, and valve is open. Checked if the bike is making vacume, stuck my finger over the hose and a pulsating vacume is felt.

Checked the in tank filter/tap - clean and working.
Checked vacume hoses for holes - none
One way valve on vacume hose is working
Looked for vacume leaks with wd40 while engine running - nothing.

Some more background for those mechanical detectives:
Bike was running fine, but would tend to backfire and not rev when getting a quick blip from the throttle when rev-matching on downshifts. I guessed this was because it was running a little lean. So I gave it a dynojet stage one kit.

When synching the carbs (both before and after dynojet) my cheap Chinese vacume gauges read 20 (cm hg vac) which on the gauge reads "late valve timing, or leak at intake manifold or heat rise". The vacuume gauge takes vacume from the same place as the fuel tap. I assumed it was nothing because my gauge set is for cars and couldn't even make a good seal on the tiny nipple on the carb.

As a frame of reference, I can open the valve on the tap by sucking on the hose, but if I suck on the carb synch gauge I can't get it much past 30. I reckon 20 should be enough to open the valve. (Yeah I'm a bit weird)


Bike was running really well after dynojet - no more backfire. Nice brown plugs. But then developed an intermittent flat spot at 5000rpm. Would just die down and run like it was fuel starved for a while and then it would get over it. My philosophy on intermittent problems is to just leave them until they don't go away so they can be diagnosed - got my wish.

A week or so later it completely died on me - Worked fine all day in town, but when it was copping a thrashing on the twisties it just lost all power and died. Left it for a bit and it would run for a while and die again - regardless how it was being ridden. I nursed it home in short bursts - ride a bit / sit a bit. It would die on either prime or on or reserve.

So I went searching, dismantled and checked the entire fuel system, from tank to carbs. Cleaned carbs, checked float levels, hoses, both taps. Could not find a problem, everything is fine. Reassembled and now the bike runs fine, just on prime mode - won't run on 'on' or 'reserve'.

What have I done!? Has anyone else had this problem? Is there something I'm missing or something I should check?

Any help would be appreciated and I will let you know if I find a solution.

John.

Ps. not long before any of these issues bike had a valve clearance check (at the shop) and was in spec.
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he just wants an idea how to delete the PAIR system. what "diy" method works. if you where set on just closing it up and never using it again. JBweld. it. lol
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General GS500 Discussion / Re: what the fork!? should I replace the seals too?
« Last post by Joolstacho on December 12, 2017, 10:49:10 PM »
I wouldn't replace the seals if they're not leaking, best not to disturb nicely bedded-in seals, -they're probably better than new replacements would be (aftermarket ones can be less than top quality).
But I would replace the fork oil.
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"...block off plates"?
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General GS500 Discussion / Re: Dirty tank -- Inline fuel filter a bad idea?
« Last post by Joolstacho on December 12, 2017, 10:43:17 PM »
I'd flush with kero a few times, and then finish with a flush of petrol.
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General GS500 Discussion / Re: repairing rusty fork tubes
« Last post by Joolstacho on December 12, 2017, 10:40:56 PM »
Your problem is that the rust pits will tend to wear your new seals more quickly as they rub up and down.
Obviously the best answer is new fork tubes, or have your tubes hardchromed and ground to size, but both these options will cost an arm and a leg!

In the past I've repaired this using thin cyano glue. (It's better than Epoxy because it's thin like water it actually wicks deeper into the metal). Carefully scratch out any loose rust using a scalpel, then using a THIN cyano glue such as 'Hot Stuff' put tiny drips into the pit patches, and the cyano should 'wick' into the corrosion. I often start by using a cotton bud to dab the cyano on. You might have to build up thickness by repeating. Then very carefully, using 1200 grade wet & dry on a flat sanding stick, dress the cyano back level with the chrome.

This technique also works well for pitted disc-brake pistons.
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General GS500 Discussion / Re: repairing rusty fork tubes
« Last post by mr72 on December 12, 2017, 09:15:47 PM »
If it's pitted, there's nothing you can do short of replacing the fork tubes.

If you are really serious about reconditioning them in terms of making them seal better, you can fill in the rust pits with epoxy of any kind and then sand it smooth and polish it. But there's no way anyone is that serious about fixing these fork tubes.

It may leak a tiny bit due to the pitting. You can make the rust basically stop spreading and stop rusting by coating it with Breakfree CLP, and periodically spray some more CLP on it. It will dramatically slow the rust. The rust spots don't likely affect performance enough to worry about it.
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Tard Farm / Re: Last Post Wins - V3
« Last post by yamahonkawazuki on December 12, 2017, 08:56:03 PM »
bike porn is always good :)
Aaron
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