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If the voltages are under 15V then you'll be fine. I think the risk of damaging the stator is overstated in most cases. The failure modes for magnetics like this usually begin with heat and vibration which you simply can't avoid. However, once the insulation in the wiring cracks or wears through and the coils short then they will overheat and go south very, very fast. Likewise once there's an open circuit then it's simply dead and nothing you can do about it. There's not a lot of gradual degradation for that kind of part.
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Those charging voltages look good. I'd just ride it and keep an eye on the state of the battery charge before replacing anything. It's charging well and not not overcharging which is what kills batteries.

Thank you for the reply, you made me realize that the voltages are ok  :D I thought it had to be around 15v at 5000rpm... reading again the guide confirmed what you said.
So if the voltage on the battery is within spec can i be 100% sure the regulator is fine?
I'd rather change it now than burn another stator and have to change it anyway...
i'm a complete noob when it comes to electronics, i bought my first multimeter one week before this problem  :icon_mrgreen:
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Those charging voltages look good. I'd just ride it and keep an eye on the state of the battery charge before replacing anything. It's charging well and not not overcharging which is what kills batteries.
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General GS500 Discussion / Re: Orange dust around stator cover
« Last post by Kilted1 on Today at 04:39:12 AM »
You can play the same game with a UV torch in any motel room.  I don't recommend it if you plan to sleep there. :o

I think it's your torch just giving a slight color shift to the dirt and grease that's there for whatever reason.  I'd clean it off and see if it comes back. 

"White" LEDs don't give a true white light.  It just looks white to our eyes.  There's a lot of gaps in the spectrum.  Rather like a TV that mixes red, green, and blue to simulate other colors.
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General GS500 Discussion / Re: GS500F Carb vent?
« Last post by wilee on Today at 01:43:40 AM »
As others mentioned, bottom port should drain to ground via a hose.

The other, I think, connects to PAIRS on a 2006. If your bike has PAIRS, it should probably be mounted forward left side on the frame under the gas tank, and connect to your engine exhaust in front.

Someone feel free to correct if I'm wrong; my pre-owned 2005 came liberated of its PAIRS module, so that other airbox port is capped.
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General GS500 Discussion / Re: 19mm socket to rotate engine suggestions
« Last post by Kito on November 18, 2018, 08:47:10 PM »
you are considering to remove the ignitor cover to rotate the crank right...?

To be honest any wrench do the job easily.



cheers  :cheers:
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Tard Farm / Re: Last Post Wins - V3
« Last post by yamahonkawazuki on November 18, 2018, 03:01:04 PM »
You are THIS close :)
Aaron
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General GS500 Discussion / Re: 19mm socket to rotate engine suggestions
« Last post by twocool on November 18, 2018, 02:41:56 PM »
well if you just want to turn the engine to adjust the valves...you can put the bike into a high gear...and just turn the rear wheel to get the camshafts where they need to be.  I just did that job day before yesterday!  Had do go down one size on one exhaust valve.



Cookie

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General GS500 Discussion / Re: 19mm socket to rotate engine suggestions
« Last post by Big1995 on November 18, 2018, 11:16:36 AM »
You can also use the wrench in the tool kit  ;)
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The starting problem was due to fouled/wet spark plugs.
I repeated the stator test:
Top+right 0.07 ok
Top+left 0.07 ok
Right+left 0.07 ok

AC output test: I still have 2 hands so i can't use throttle and the 2 leads of the multimeter so i used the choke ti raise rpms.
All 3 combinations of wires were 33v at 2000rpm and 65v ad 4000rpm. Not a real test at 5000 but looks ok.
Isolation test was perfect and still is, all 3 are 0L

One strange thing is that the voltage on the battery with the engine on was:
idle around 1000rpm 13.6v
2000rpm 14.1v
3000rpm 13.9v

So i did the tests for the RR and this is wat i've got:
Reverse bias check (14 in the list)
Everything 0L so this is good
Forward bias check (16)
all 3 showed around 1860-1900 but i don't know what it is. the manual says it should be around 0.5v
I did these 2 tests with the stator wires disconnected, i don't know if this is the way to do it but the guide doesn't say anything...

If i did the test correctly i have a bad RR
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