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Projects / Builds, Racing and Tech / Re: oh y'know, just another build thread.
« Last post by iamhiding on December 03, 2021, 03:17:25 PM »
Dynojet never supplied slide springs for a GS. They may have for other bikes, but not a GS.
They slowed the slide rise by suggesting you block one hole etc, so a solfter spring would be counter productive to their jet kit's flaw anyway.
Cool.
Buddha.

Oh you got me thinking there, see i had a spare set of carbs that turned out to be setup using of dj parts and mikuni jets, never seemed to be quite right for 1 reason or another, it remains a mystery. Once i realised that the needles etc were dj i yoinked the bits to play with and set it up with cross referenced mikuni mains.

I had assumed they were dj springs, as they were shorter and softer like dj are on most bikes.

Anyway being curious and given that ive got a spring oddity / its a rarity youre wrong ive just had a quick look on the dynojet site. Its only giving US info on the pdfs but up to 00' they didnt get springs in the kit but 01+/F got the springs. Being in the uk im not sure if we got different kits. Ive definetley got shorter / softer springs but cant quantify their origin as they're from a set of bst33 mystery carbs however the bsr34s got them in the kit fosho'. Could be a regional thing that we got them in the uk or someone's used bsr34 dj springs... Who knows, either way ones snapped.

Yeah they plug/s the slide to slow it down, suggest removing a plug for stage 3, youre right it does seem counterintuitive, id assume the softer spring in part works with the lesser forces, to compliment the plugged diapgragm a bit more. Itll slow the diaphragm returning too, so i guess itll open quicker if its slower returning on decel to throttle modulation but also removing the plug will help reduce both the slowing effects. Its all just to bring a little more control to the aggressive needle taper so that its not on/off or lifting so quick that it gets too much fuel in that given operating range should it be opened up too quick but they also use dignificantly smaller mains. Im purely speculating and trying to rationalise their logic. Really they're just using different parameters to arrive at the same conclusion for the sake of getting it onto main circuit marginally sooner. Ive never really put any thought into why they do it tgat way to be honest. Id be interested to see back to back dyno sheets of tuned vs dj tuned just to see what differences there are and where with both stage 1 and 3. Id imagine any differences are nominal. Once again im speculating off the top of my head. Going to see what literature i can dig up on such effects purely for my own curiosity.

I love playing with carbs, i can say my experience with dj kit on the gs vs just tuning on std slides/needles is that i seemed to pick up good initial punch in the 1/8th to 1/4 throttle, little bit better as it enters mid range  but that's about it and 4/4 was good but was never quite as good as before the kit, always felt like i was between jet sizes. Cant quantify with dyno data but did a lot of back to back testing. Albeit i dunno like 5 yr ago.

I know there's certain applications ie different bikes where using factorypro has shown to be optimal rather over just jetting, think they use ti needles and different tapers broadly speaking. id assume dj has its place too but really is it worth the money to get a kit... Hell no. Thats ultimately my issue with them.

Be curious to hear your experiences with the dj kits or thoughts on any of it, personally id never waste my money on a their kits, not sure if theres any valid merrit to them but i suspect its largely gimmick.

But yeah you've got me thinking, the springs are a mystery so im gonna double check ive got the right dj needles in for the bst33s, if so it means i can run standard springs,  pull the plug/s out and tune to suit.

Once i find a cheap source of jets i'll look at comparing 1 tune vs dj tune again for a bit of fun. Sourcing the right size drills and shaft deviation have turned drilling jets into a no go for now.
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Projects / Builds, Racing and Tech / Re: Engine timing
« Last post by chris900f on December 03, 2021, 02:55:23 PM »
Sorry, I should have pointed out the differences between the cams. I think the procedure from the Suzuki update
is better/safer for your parts, since it doesn't put huge stress on the aluminum cam-cap threads in the cyl head.

I probably don't need to stress the point of making sure your timing is perfect before that first rotation. One thing
to add is that if your are turning the engine via the timing rotor bolt, use a wrench, and not a socket. The socket
will only give you forward direction of control and valve spring pressure will cause the engine to rotate by itself though
parts of the cycle. If you use a solid wrench, you can control rotation throughout the cycle. So rotate very slowly: if the
worst happens and you feel contact, you can get someone to hold the engine steady, while you remove the cam-chain tensioner
and the cam-caps to close all the valves.

Good luck, let us know how it goes :thumb:
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Projects / Builds, Racing and Tech / Re: Engine timing
« Last post by John o keeffe on December 03, 2021, 10:28:22 AM »
 :cheers:
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Projects / Builds, Racing and Tech / Re: Engine timing
« Last post by Bluesmudge on December 03, 2021, 10:10:15 AM »
Thanks very much Chris,
 I will try this out over the next few days.
I have only two thin washers on the left of both cam shafts , o mention of wave washers on the right hand side. (That's according to the Haynes manual), will let you know how I get on .
  Thanks again.

Those wave washers were only on 2006+ model years to stop the cam walking noise. Its correct for your 1993 engine to not have those.
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Projects / Builds, Racing and Tech / Re: Engine timing
« Last post by John o keeffe on December 03, 2021, 09:29:35 AM »
Thanks very much Chris,
 I will try this out over the next few days.
I have only two thin washers on the left of both cam shafts , o mention of wave washers on the right hand side. (That's according to the Haynes manual), will let you know how I get on .
  Thanks again.
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Projects / Builds, Racing and Tech / Re: Engine timing
« Last post by chris900f on December 02, 2021, 05:46:12 PM »
I did this job last summer when I replaced my cams. I watched the BaltimoreGS videos on YouTube but they didn't show the exact problem.
I found the work around in the 2006 service bulletin re: cam walk/replacing cams. Suzuki recommends NOT trying to use the cam-cap to force
against the valve-spring pressure, as it can damage the bearing surface.

1)set up timing, count the pins, rt mark etc. When setting up the initial cam timing, be sure to draw to chain taught to the exhaust cam.
   After timing, any slack in the chain should be at the backside/tensioner side of the engine.

2) Install cam caps on the intake.

3) Very carefully rotate the engine backwards, if your wrench is pointing straight up on the timing bolt, it needs to go 90 degrees to the left.
     You can watch and just rotate enough that your left exhaust lobe releases the bucket. Install exhaust cam-caps.

4) ***********Stop!!, do not attempt any more rotation of the engine until you install your cam chain tensioner****************

5) With the Cam-chain tensioner installed, there should be good tension on the chain and it's safe to slowly rotate the engine forward to RT. Now re-check your timing, pins etc
     before rotating through a full cycle.

Here's a pic of the Suzuki doc, hope this helps.



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Odds n Ends / Re: Whole new project
« Last post by cbrfxr67 on December 02, 2021, 07:39:03 AM »
awww yea!  that's the best feeling!

,..when it starts
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Odds n Ends / Re: The "What Is This?" game
« Last post by Watcher on December 01, 2021, 06:43:03 PM »
Guess it's my turn again....hmmmm.  How about this?

Hard Drive tray?
You got it!!

I keep coming in and out of this forum these days.  Too bad, I recognized this basically instantly.

I'm glad to see this game is getting some participation, it was quite interesting back in the day.
Just waiting on sledge now.
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Odds n Ends / Re: Whole new project
« Last post by mr72 on December 01, 2021, 04:28:38 PM »
It runs! But the ECU was bad, Genuine recalled them, so I am checking on whether a replacement is available via recall. Otherwise, I have the ECU from the other one on it and it runs fine.

New tires inbound, then ride!
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Projects / Builds, Racing and Tech / Engine timing
« Last post by John o keeffe on December 01, 2021, 03:48:40 PM »
Hi all,
     I need some advice about setting up the timing
on the valves/cams. I installed the buckets and shims , but I cant fix the exhaust cam onto the journal because the valve keeps it off the journal.  If I tighten the cam caps to set the cam the rt mark wont line up.Its a 1993 gs500e.
I've rebuilt the engine   and am on the home straight after  ONLY  2 years of very valuable experience. Hope someone can talk me through this part. I have the Haynes manual by the way.
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