Awesome thread! Thank you for all the TLC you've given to a GS. Looks great and I'm glad you didn't keep the F style headlight without the fairings (not one of my favorite looks but I understand other people like it that way.)

After not having a bike for many years, I bought a 2006 GS500F in March. It had been sitting for about a year. It was in rough cosmetic shape and OK mechanical shape.

I immediately started taking it apart and going through it. The bike wasn't in good enough shape for me to be comfortable riding it.

After a month or so of working on it, I happily put it back on the road. It's been fantastic having a bike again! I'm really happy with how the GS500F performs. I can see why it's such a widely recommended bike!

I'm looking forward to doing some tours around the Seattle area this summer

If anyone is curious, here's a list of most of what I did to it:
Add basket, tool kit, tire pump
Add windshield
Change mirrors
Reinstall tank and fuel lines
Install license plate
Balance carbs
Oil & filter rr (2022/04/18, 18,1xxmi Rotella conventional 15w-40 and k&n filter)
Top petcock: rr gasket, add fuel filter
Grips rr
Tail light bulbs rr
Rear wheel: torque brake caliper, torque axle nut, tension chain, rr cotter pin (redid chain tension)
Vacuum hoses rr
Airbox insulators rr
Reattach rear fairing 
Carb parts: rr bowl gaskets, drain screws, bowl screws, all insulator screws
Bleed brakes, f&r DOT4
Headlamp - l beam out - fixed
Chain and front sprocket: rr (JT x ring chain & sprocket)
Register with WA
Charge battery. Put on battery tender
Headlight rr + bolts (10mm x 1.25).
Turn signals rr
Clean bike
Tail lamp running light out - fixed Wiring harness was routed so it was cut by the forks. RR wiring. Works now. Fixed Headlamp issue as well.
Carb parts: main jet o-rings replaced with Storehouse 4.8mm x1.9mm o-rings
Fork oil rr - done. Filled with 20wt oil to ~110mm.
Cleaned carb bowls and jets
Spark plugs rr. Stock replacements
Cleaned front sprocket area, cover, and sprocket, Forks, R sprocket and carrier, R wheel, F wheel, shifter, chain
R wheel bearings, sprocket bearing rr - All Balls units
Tires & valve stems rr - done, Kenda k671 f&r.
Top petcock: repair nipple
Front wheel: rr cotter pin
Brake lever rr
Front wheel: installed brake rotor, put on bike
Dash lights: hi beam and turn signal rr
Add rubber isolaters around fork legs for headlamp brackets

+1

Looks perfect to me. The only one that might concern me would be the .10 on your right intake but its close enough.

For the exhaust I run mine anywhere from .05 - .15 on the exhaust but I aim for .08
For intake I aim for the Suzuki spec .03 - .08 but would accept .09 or .10 if that's what worked out with the shims I had on hand.

As The Buddha says, run it for awhile (like 2,000 to 4,000 miles) and then check again so you know the direction and speed of change on your bike's valve clearances. Once you know that you can generally go 8,000 miles between valve checks and you can predict which shims you will need to order ahead of time.

Okay so you do not think it will hurt to drive 2000km more and then check again ?