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How did you jump start it with out negative from starter to battery ??? Which I am not even sure exists.
The frame/motor etc are negative, the negative cable is bolted to the engine case. The starter grounds to the case simply by virtue of being bolted in there.
Almost every thing on this planet that has an electrical system negative of battery is bolted to engine and frame.
Some accessories like horn etc in some bikes - like the GS work on the button connecting + and - at the button, but some others like 70's and 80's hondas worked on connecting the + to ground at the button. As in the + went to the horn, and on the other pin returned to the horn button. Press it and it gets grounded completing the + to horn, to other pin on horn to handlebar (ground).

I dont know the answer to your question, and I open up a receiver and laugh at it before fixing it.
But exactly what did you not connect and how did you jump it ?

General GS500 Discussion / Re: Valve Clearance...
« Last post by The Buddha on May 08, 2022, 05:40:23 PM »
Okay cool.. so you do not think my specs are too loose for now?
and how many km do you think I can drive before I have to check again :)

You are loose, but next shim up will be too tight for "forum consensus". The general thought is you run .05-.07 intake and .07-09 exhaust instead of .03-05 suzuki recomends. - GSJack outlines his numbers, but I've seen people arrive on larger than his exhaust for intake and even a step higher for exhaust.
FWIW, yamaha maxim's from the 80's had the same type of motor and even used shims you can put in a GS in a total emergency - in short, the same thing as a GS1000-550 series - just yamahaized which is basically 2X the GS500 motor. The suggest .005-007 intake and .007-.009 exhaust.
A thicker shim swap means you lose .05. So subtract .05 from yours and you get 2 at .05 and 2 and .03 - sadly the wrong ones are .03 (or atleast 1 is) If you wanna really get technical, I'll do the 2 that are .1 and leave the other 2 alone. Or maybe do the intake that's .08 also but dont touch the .08 exhaust. General suggestion was to run exhaust over .05 whether it be GSJack or many others here and I wont disagree.
BTW I had an oil using motor I flogged for 50K miles and I could if I wanted to check the valves every weekend. Which I did. And found, mine wore loose. So if you see that happening, swap all 4 with 1 step thicker in a 1000 miles or what miles you check next.
On a side note, You should hear each valve and determine how it sounds, and see if it changes. Also part of getting to know the bike.

PS: Sorry .07 for 1 exhaust not .08 - dont touch that, the .1 - meeh, its OK. I'd really not touch any, but you can swap the intakes 1 size up if you prefer.

General GS500 Discussion / Re: Valve Clearance...
« Last post by lenwe on May 08, 2022, 03:50:35 PM »
Okay cool.. so you do not think my specs are too loose for now?
and how many km do you think I can drive before I have to check again :)
General GS500 Discussion / Re: Valve Clearance...
« Last post by The Buddha on May 08, 2022, 01:50:06 PM »
I had them increase with time on the only bike I ran for long enough to need several adjustments in its life with me, but you're free to make your observations on your bike.
As they stand now, you may need one of them elusive 253 type shims (which were only used at the factory) to get them right without being too tight. Run it, if it increases, you're good to swap to the next thicker shim. If it decreases, well you run it till it goes out of spec.
General GS500 Discussion / Valve Clearance...
« Last post by lenwe on May 08, 2022, 01:03:09 PM »
Today I checked my valves clearance (picture below) Should I do something about it? clerance will probably get smaller over time or have I misunderstood something ??
Projects / Builds, Racing and Tech / Dumb mistake putting the loom back in.
« Last post by thatshitcray on May 08, 2022, 10:26:43 AM »
Loom was out, put it back in and it wouldn't start. I knew the battery would be flat so jumpstarted it.. figured out afterwards that a negative from the starter to the battery was missing.

So, what have I ruined?

I can jump start it but it can't ride for more than 1km. Upon playing with the electrics today, when trying to start I lose all power. No headlights or anything when on. So, is the starter relay the culprit for this? And not running for more than 1km, could that be the starter or have I also burnt the stator?
General GS500 Discussion / Re: Rusty tank/electrolysis
« Last post by The Buddha on May 08, 2022, 07:43:55 AM »
Who the Efff ordered winter. Its not getting out of the 50's and not sunny either to 2pm today, where its still only 60.
No, cant coat unless it breaks 70 and is sunny. Cos I cant get it in the house. Basically pick a hot hot hot day. Start at day break, get the coating in it about 10 am and turn turn turn all day till dark, and you'd be OK leaving it in a hot car overnight even if it drops to 60 over night. LOL, its 53F now near 11 am.

PS: The coating step is what needs the heat. So not a factor in acid vs electrolysis.

Yes, the stock air box would be the best option, but it's such a pain to work on carbs with it that I don't want to go that route.  :thumb:

Anyways decided to take a chance and change my diaphragms and wow, now the bikes feels like a fun thing to drive! Probably had too much faith in the old 40 years old rubber.

Now i'm able to rev to 7-8k in every gear with a 125 main jet and 45 pilot and the plugs are white, telling me it need's a little more fuel. Taking in consideration Buddha's advice, for my model (original main = 117.5) the mains I should run should be more around 137.5 to 142.5. Time to order some jets!

Here's a picture of the bike  8) I installed some emgo pipes and the pipe inside also got a baffle to quiet the beast down. Sounded so loud before, I thought I was in the Bosozoku gang!

Kepping you guys up to date, thanks for the help!!
General GS500 Discussion / Re: Rusty tank/electrolysis
« Last post by The Buddha on May 07, 2022, 09:05:40 AM »
I started on it and after an hour, hit a snag - the gas cap seems to be stuck. Then another issue came up, its looking imminently like its gonna rain.

The videos will be added as I do the next steps. In fact my youtube channel (cooking and some drink making mostly as well as blood sugar and food) is -

PS: Why am I not doing POR15 in this tank ? Kreem can be fixed easier if it starts to separate. Also POR15 is my preferred coating if the tank will be powdercoated at some point in the future. This tank will not be. Kreem also if removal is needed, you can set the tank to where you can fish it through the filler cap hole and heat the tank to 400 for an hour or 2. It will melt, puddle up and you can after it cools, fish it out in pieces.

PPS: The cap is off, took a good 2hr soak in wd40, and the insides of the tank are worse than I remembered ~6 months ago - yea rust never sleeps. But it also is raining. Likely return to it tomorrow.

PPPS: Tomorrow is cooler by 10 degrees, cloudy as well, but supposed to not rain and gets sunny past 2 pm. Not ideal. Lets see. I'd rather not wait to next weekend.

Actually If you have a free flowing pipe in addition to those pods, it will likely follow the same formula as a GS. I'd not touch the pilot, and go +8 or 10 (meaning 2.5X10 - 10 sizes, so 125 becomes 150, not 135) on the mains with 1 washer for the needle.

Some of these older bike had such restrictive exhausts because they were built during the oil shock era and that was a way to get them to use less fuel while still be nice running and torquey.

Post a pic of your carbs preferable the float bowl and top parts open, I'll tell you if you can use the GS jetting method.

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