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Sprocket Cover Cleanout & Clutch Adjustment

Started by RedShift, August 27, 2005, 08:00:40 PM

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RedShift

After reading about mysterious puddles of oil under the sidestand, I found some of my own at the same place.  The cause was likely the same -- oiling the chain.  I hadn't ever taken off the front drive sprocket cover before, so I had reason to look.

I was shocked to learn that among the oil and chain wax goop was bird seed shells.  Spent a half hour cleaning it up and realized I'd missed a golden, albeit embarrasing opportunity to photograph this process.  So I grabbed the Olympus and started over.  Here's my story of how I adjusted the clutch after opening the Drive Sprocket Cover and messed up the original adjustment:
_____________________________________________________

Here's what it looked like before opening.  The shift lever is the first bit to remove.  Requires a 10 mm wrench to remove the bolt holding it to the spline. Mark the split with a permanent marker to indicate alignment when it goes back on:



Before the drive sprocket cover comes off, need to loosen the in-line Clutch tension adjustment.  Loosen the lock nut with a 12mm wrench, moving it up to the 10mm clutch adjuster.



Turn the clutch adjuster clockwise, releasing tension to the clutch mechanism.  The clutch lever (handlebar) will go limp.  Once done, the in-line adjuster looked like this:



Turn attention to getting the drive sprocket cover off.  The five screws holding the drive sprocket cover are next, taking an 8mm socket.  Three are long -- two short.  Remember how they come off.  Wiggling the cover off, the drive sprocket itself sees daylight:



There's this rod sticking out to the left of the sprocket, the clutch push rod.  The pushing comes from a Clutch push mechanism on the inside of the drive sprocket cover:



Intrigued as I am with taking things apart, I needed to know how this worked.  The push rod was not easy to push in, but it came out very easily.  I pushed it back in and left it there for the duration.

Looking at the cover insides, the spring pulls the cable down and screw mechanism closed:



Pulling the cable against the spring, the clutch mechanism begins to screw out, perhaps 2-3mm, pushing against that rod sticking into the transmission:



Amazed that this is all it takes, I set to work adjusting the three pieces -- Clutch Lever, the In-line Clutch adjustment, and the yet to be revealed Clutch Mechanism Adjustment screw.  As mentioned, the Clutch Lever is now limp:



I have a lot of adjustment room here, and leave it.  If I was reasonable well extended, I would have pulled some slack adjustment in toward the handle.

Okay, I put a dab of grease on the push rod and the shaft of the shifter rod and bolted the sprocket cover back on.  I decide to set the middle adjustment first.  Picked a reasonable distance for the adjuster to be positioned away from the cover's edge (6-8mm) and locked it in:



With the drive sprocket cover back on, I take the two screws off to reveal the Clutch Mechanism Release Adjustment screw and 10mm lock nut.  Released the nut and backed off the screw until there was no resistance.  Then turned the screw in until I met resistance.  This is the point at which the push rod begins to compress the cluch mechanism  I backed off a quarter-turn and locked it in.



I didn't back off enough.  Should have been more as the clutch lever was too tight, barely moving with tension on the lever:



Small matter. With the lever adjuster, I dialed in a 4mm free-play in the lever before pulling in the clutch:



I locked in the lever-end and put the rubber boot over the clutch lever adjuster.  Checked the drive sprocket cover bolts and re-installed the gear shift lever:



All done.  Went for a ride to ensure all operated as it should.  Job took about 20 minutes once I figured out the three degrees of adjustment freedom, not counting the 30 minutes of cleaning oily, waxy, sunflower seed-laden goop from the insides of the drive sprocket area.  Add 10 minutes if you want to play with it some before buttoning up.  All told, it took me an hour.

Equipment included paper towels, rags, WD-40 to liquify crud, a slotted head screwdriver, 8mm & 10mm sockets, 8mm, 10mm & 12mm wrenches & shop gloves.  Takes only common sense to do this, but reading a Clymer manual helps set the stage for what you'll be doing.

Hope this is useful to some of you budding wrenchers of GS500 technology.  Piece of cake, especially after you've done it once. :thumb:

Roy...

PS. I'm not a professional.  Follow these directions at your own risk.  :dunno:
2001 GS500E, stock except for SV650 Flyscreen, Case Guards, Headlight Modulator, PIAA Super White bulb & 17-Tooth Front Sprocket, BLUE, RED and GREEN LED Instrument and Dash Lights

daneilah

Great pictures!  I think Kerry will be proud.

Every time I see a post like this, I get a little braver with respect to doing maintenance on my GS.

Thanks for taking the time  :cheers:
2004 GS500F ... SOLD after 2 summers and 16,600km
2006 GSF650S Bandit

ginoe

great tip  :thumb:

i've seen gunked up front sprockets (my own) and they're frightening  :o
2005 yellow sv650s
2003 blue zrx1200r

"there are no bad days when riding, some are just better than others"

JamesG

You missed a couple spots of dirt there.
:P

Just kidding. Looks and reads great!
James Greeson
GS Posse
WERA #306

mp183

Quote from: RedShiftAfter reading about mysterious puddles of oil under the sidestand, I found some of my own at the same place.  The cause was likely the same -- oiling the chain.  I hadn't ever taken off the front drive sprocket cover before, so I had reason to look.
Before the drive sprocket cover comes off, need to loosen the in-line Clutch tension adjustment.  Loosen the lock nut with a 12mm wrench, moving it up to the 10mm clutch adjuster.

Good pics.

If you are just cleaning or changing the sprocket you don't have to touch the in-line Clutch tension adjustment unless you do need to adjust it.

For the messy stuff I got a metal pan from Walmart.  It's about 2'x4' and works really great to keep the garage floor clean when doing this kind of stuff and oil changes.
2002 GS500
2004 V-Strom 650 
is it time to check the valves?
2004 KLR250.

Phaedrus

I printed this out so i can give it a shot myself, probably this Fall when its nasty, cold, and rainy it'll give me something to do.  :thumb: Thanks for the info and tips.
Richard died in a motorcycle accident that was at no fault of his own.  We lost a good friend and good member of this board.  Though Rich may be gone, his legacy will live on here.

Photos from the June '06 Northeast GStwin Meet

RedShift

Glad you folks liked it.  If you thought I left a grease spot, you should have seen the Olympus camera.  (Good thing the wife didn't see it before I degreased it.)

I find that it's best to photograph the second time I do something.  Fewer re-takes.  ;)
2001 GS500E, stock except for SV650 Flyscreen, Case Guards, Headlight Modulator, PIAA Super White bulb & 17-Tooth Front Sprocket, BLUE, RED and GREEN LED Instrument and Dash Lights

RedShift

Quote from: mp183... If you are just cleaning or changing the sprocket you don't have to touch the in-line Clutch tension adjustment unless you do need to adjust it. ...
That's true.  Unfortunately I followed the written words (Clutch Adjustment, page 79, Parts 5&6, Clymer Manual, 2002 edition) and didn't give it much of a thought before I messed up the original setting.  Provided a good learning opportunity though to fix it.

Quote from: mp183... For the messy stuff I got a metal pan from Walmart.  It's about 2'x4' and works really great to keep the garage floor clean when doing this kind of stuff and oil changes.
:thumb:
Much more recyclable than the first & second sections of the local paper that I use.

Roy...
2001 GS500E, stock except for SV650 Flyscreen, Case Guards, Headlight Modulator, PIAA Super White bulb & 17-Tooth Front Sprocket, BLUE, RED and GREEN LED Instrument and Dash Lights

Mickey_D100

phenomenal write up!  I need to do this myself, as my clutch is loose. . .  I will definitely be bookmarking this and coming back to it.   :thumb:

scratch

The Clutch Release Adjustment Screw is to be adjusted before the other two adjustments. The other two adjusters should be completely backed off (or seated; loose) before adjusting the screw.
The motorcycle is no longer the hobby, the skill has become the hobby.

Power does not compare to skill.  What good is power without the skill to use it?

QuoteOriginally posted by Wintermute on BayAreaRidersForum.com
good judgement trumps good skills every time.

RedShift

I guess I can agree with you, so long as the other two points (the In-line Adjuster and the Lever Adjuster) are put in the middle of the range and the Clutch Mechanism Adjustment Screw is backed off at least half a turn.

I argue that if you go to minimum on both middle & lever ends, something is going to be extended or contracted.  I think setting everything in the middle is better to allow for minor adjustments after the fact.

Just my opinion -- others may vary.
2001 GS500E, stock except for SV650 Flyscreen, Case Guards, Headlight Modulator, PIAA Super White bulb & 17-Tooth Front Sprocket, BLUE, RED and GREEN LED Instrument and Dash Lights

scratch

The other two only adjust the cable. If the cable is exerting any pressure on the screw it will throw off the adjustment.
The motorcycle is no longer the hobby, the skill has become the hobby.

Power does not compare to skill.  What good is power without the skill to use it?

QuoteOriginally posted by Wintermute on BayAreaRidersForum.com
good judgement trumps good skills every time.

RedShift

:cheers:

BTW, none of you know what I did with my spiffy metric micrometer, do ya?  :dunno: I thought it was in my toolbox.  

As normal it will probably be in the last place I look for it.  Wish I could start there first, but after the past 20 minutes I have no such luck.
2001 GS500E, stock except for SV650 Flyscreen, Case Guards, Headlight Modulator, PIAA Super White bulb & 17-Tooth Front Sprocket, BLUE, RED and GREEN LED Instrument and Dash Lights

starwalt

Quote from: RedShiftBTW, none of you know what I did with my spiffy metric micrometer, do ya?  :dunno: I thought it was in my toolbox.

Oh man! I forgot and left it in my back pocket! I was wondering what was sticking me in the back on the ride home.  :lol:

Nice write up. If you really want to know what the insides of the clutch push mechanism look like...
 

And for a nasty GS sprocket cover (from my 90 rebuild)
 

You should (and will soon) see it now. Much cleaner!
-=Doug......   IT ≠ IQ.

God save us from LED turn signal mods!

Get an Ebay GS value  HERE.

1990 GS running, 1990 GS work-in-progress, 1990 basket case.
The trend here is entropy

Kerry

Quote from: daneilahGreat pictures!  I think Kerry will be proud.
Yep!  Good stuff. :thumb:


Quote from: daneilahEvery time I see a post like this, I get a little braver with respect to doing maintenance on my GS.
Music to my ears (er ... eyes, I guess.) :)  Best of Luck in all your wrenching!
Yellow 1999 GS500E
Kerry's Suzuki GS500 Page

Recreational_Anxiety

Quote from: starwalt
Quote from: RedShiftBTW, none of you know what I did with my spiffy metric micrometer, do ya?  :dunno: I thought it was in my toolbox.

Oh man! I forgot and left it in my back pocket! I was wondering what was sticking me in the back on the ride home.  :lol:

Nice write up. If you really want to know what the insides of the clutch push mechanism look like...
 

And for a nasty GS sprocket cover (from my 90 rebuild)
 

You should (and will soon) see it now. Much cleaner!

.... hehehe... that's exactly how mine looked the last time I took it off   :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:   .... I swear I couldn't figure out how the cow was able to take a dump inside the cover like that - I think it was the same cow that tried to take Kerry out.

Roy - you need to ride that bike through some mud or something... it looks way too clean!
Mike Oxlong

RedShift

I did ride through some muck!!  But since I was intending to post pictures, I didn't want to let anyone think I didn't take care of my ride so I washed it a few days before this was shot.

Quote from: Kerry
Quote from: daneilahGreat pictures! I think Kerry will be proud.
Yep! Good stuff.
Ah, shucks.  Just had a good example, 'tis all...

Guess I should cross-post this thread over in the FAQ sub-forum.  Wasn't sure the quality was up to par, but sounds like a few of the crowd like what they see here.  For those (like me) that don't have a web site to store our "how I did it" stories, it's nice that such a location exists.

Roy...
2001 GS500E, stock except for SV650 Flyscreen, Case Guards, Headlight Modulator, PIAA Super White bulb & 17-Tooth Front Sprocket, BLUE, RED and GREEN LED Instrument and Dash Lights

RedShift

Quote from: starwalt
Quote from: RedShiftBTW, none of you know what I did with my spiffy metric micrometer, do ya?  :dunno: I thought it was in my toolbox.

Oh man! I forgot and left it in my back pocket! I was wondering what was sticking me in the back on the ride home.  :lol: ...
Ha!  Found it!!  Right where I put it for safe keeping -- hallway deacon's bench.
2001 GS500E, stock except for SV650 Flyscreen, Case Guards, Headlight Modulator, PIAA Super White bulb & 17-Tooth Front Sprocket, BLUE, RED and GREEN LED Instrument and Dash Lights

kimo3825

thanks for the info. on my list of thing to do for my 6000 maintence. well actually 6500. to busy to do it then. have time tomorrow. wish me luck first time with valve maintenance.

TheGoodGuy

im moving this to the FAQ! thanks redshift.
'01 GS500. Mods: Katana Shock, Progessive Springs, BobB's V&H  Advancer Clone, JeffD's LED tail lights & LED licence plate bolt running lights, flanders superbike bars, magnet under the bike. Recent mods: Rejet with 20/62.5/145, 3 shims on needle, K&N Lunch box.

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