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How to Clean and Grease Gas Cap and Vent-Sticky Me Please

Started by ben2go, April 28, 2008, 02:59:59 PM

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ben2go

Mods please make this a sticky or add it to the FAQ.


I have been working for months striping,cleaning,painting,upgrading and modifying my 89 GS.
One thing that has caused problems is a clogged and dirty  gas cap vent.The gas
tank is vented through the fuel cap.If it gets clogged the tank can't breathe.
When I first got my bike it would run spuraticly.When it was cold there would be
a vacuum in the tank,and the fuel wouldn't flow.When my bike sat in the sun,my
tank would get hot,and gas would leak into the air box.Some one on here suggested
that I clean the fuel cap.Can't remember who,it's been over a year since it happened.
Here's a run down on maintaining the fuel cap.

Tools needed.

4mm allen wrench-I do not recomend using an allen socket.These bolts break easily.
#1 phillips screw driver-A #2 phillips is to large and may strip the screw head.
Penatrating lube
Bearing grease-Any heavy grease will work.You could use petrolleum/navel jelly.
Old rag-Helps to prevent sratching the paint and keeps the small parts from bouncing
and rolling away.





First,open the fuel cap.Look aound the rim and find the 4 post running from the
cap rim to the tank.Spray penatrating lube around the area where the post meet the
tank.Let stand for 15 to 20 minutes.If they are rusty,let it sit from morning to
late afternoon.





Loosen and remove the four bolts.Set them aside.I don't recomend putting the bolts
back in the tank.They may accidentially get droped into the tank.Open the cap and
pull it off.I know I put the bolts back in.That's why I recomend against it.Note the
hole off to the side.That is the drain incase of fuel over flow or rain water pooling.
There suposed to be a hosed connected on the bootom of the tank to route fuel away
from the engine and under the bike.Make sure it's there.Fuel dripping on a hot engine
is certain disaster.






Flip the cap upside down on a rag and spray penetrating lube on the phillips head
screws.Wait 15-20 minutes and remove them.Be very careful,the screws are made of soft
metal and will strip easily.Resoak with penatrating oil and let stand another 30
minutes.Remove screws and remove latch from cap gently pulling up.Be carefull not to
loose the lock cover spring and ball.



Seperated.



I am working on posting the rest.It's gonna take a few post to get it all on here.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

ben2go


Remove and grease the ball for the lock cover.Becarefull not to loose it.My pen is
pointing at the ball.While you have the ball off,check and clean the vent seal.Sorry
the pics are so blurry.I only have my cam phone.Leave the six springs in place.They
push down on the latch tank seal.



I used dish washing soap and water to wash the vent seal.It didn't need it this time.
My pen is pointing to the vent seal.


Note the heavy grease keeps the ball in place for reassembly.


The six springs push down on this ring to seal the latch to the tank.The pen points the way.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

ben2go

Now flip the lock/latch assemly key hole up.Remove the sring for the lock cover ball,
clean,and apply grease.Note the grease will help hold the spring in for reassembly.



Spring out.


Clean and greased spring.


Spring installed.See how the grease holds the spring in.


This is the vent area that the perviously mentioned vent seal, seals up.Make sure it's
clean.Spray penatrating oil in the holes.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

ben2go

Now it's time to reassemble.Slowly and carefully place the latch on top of the cap.
Make sure all the springs are seated in the latch.Make sure the greased spring matches
up to the greased ball.Install screws and snug them down.



Look to see that all the springs are seated.




We're not done yet.


Check the lock cover and make sure it operates correctly.You can see the fresh greased
ball, looking into the lock cover hinge, while it's open.


Lay the cap upside down,spray penatrating oil in the holes,and on the catches.Let stand
for 10 minutes.Insert the key and work the lock back and forth.If it's sticky and won't
let the catches come out,repeat.When I let my key go,my catches spring out,turning the
key back to the position to remove the key.

Vent holes.


Catches.



Now the cap is ready to be reinstalled.Wipe it down first.Becarefull and don't over
tighten the bolts.They will break easily.Not much to it really.My vent area was full
of dirt and the holes were clogged up.Remember I cleaned the cap a year ago and the
pics show how clean it has stayed.So I only recommend doing this every 3 to 5 years.
Maybe more if you live/ride in very dry dusty areas.It took me about and hour the
first time I did this.I have no rust isses with my tank.I can do this in 15 minutes
now.You can go farther with this by removing the cylinder lock and internals.I don't
see this being nesassary.


There's more pics in my photobucket album.
http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/GS%20Fuel%20Cap%20Clean%20and%20Grease/

:thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
PICS are GONE never TO return.

scottpA_GS



~ 1990 GS500E Project bike ~ Frame up restoration ~ Yosh exhaust, 89 clipons, ...more to come...

~ 98 Shadow ACE 750 ~ Black Straight Pipes ~ UNI Filter ~ Dyno Jet Stage 1 ~ Sissy Bar ~


Ronin

Well, either you're part of the problem, part of the solution,...
              - ..or you're just part of the landscape. - lndeed.
   

frankieG

i had the same problem with my 89 yoshi....what a pain in the ass that was.   it would start to bog down and i would have to stop, open the gas cap and close it again.  then i was good for another 10-20 miles depending on the ambient temperature
liberal camerican
living in beautiful new port richey florida
i have a beautiful gf(not anymore)
former navy bubble head (JD is our patran saint)

ben2go

Quote from: scottpA_GS on April 28, 2008, 04:00:05 PM

Very nice post Ben  :cheers: Well done  :thumb:


Quote from: scottpA_GS on April 28, 2008, 04:00:05 PM

Very nice post Ben  :cheers: Well done  :thumb:


Thanks.Hope it helps some people.




Quote from: frankieG on April 28, 2008, 04:36:27 PM
i had the same problem with my 89 yoshi....what a pain in the ass that was.   it would start to bog down and i would have to stop, open the gas cap and close it again.  then i was good for another 10-20 miles depending on the ambient temperature


Yea,I rode around for a week with the cap open.I filled it up,took off and fill the front of my pants with gas.I decided to ask fur help.  :thumb:
PICS are GONE never TO return.

bucks1605

Very nice how-to!

I might clean mine this weekend, could I use wd-40 instead of penetrating lube?
SV1000K3 Bought 03/17/09
1996 GS500E Sold 03/03/09

ben2go

Quote from: bucks1605 on April 28, 2008, 06:13:36 PM
Very nice how-to!

I might clean mine this weekend, could I use wd-40 instead of penetrating lube?


Yes but it won't lubricate as long.WD-40 stands for Water Displacer Formula 40.It lubricates but not as well.Penetrating oil stays in the metal longer.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

ajaxgs

2k gs500 naked (sold)
07 sv650s

ohgood



tt_four: "and believe me, BMW motorcycles are 50% metal, rubber and plastic, and 50% useless

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