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What have you done for your bike today????

Started by qwiky, July 29, 2010, 07:10:38 AM

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qcbaker

Quote from: mr72 on November 01, 2018, 08:03:49 AM
Mine too.

I'm guessing the rust on the threads prevents mine from moving too much ;)

Haha, rust can indeed be a very effective threadlocker.

For real though, there's also the fact that my mirrors are fairing mounted, so the geometry is a bit different. IIRC, you have no fairings, so your mirrors have to be either bar-end or handlebar mounted, neither of which would experience this issue to the same degree.

mr72

Quote from: qcbaker on November 01, 2018, 08:54:15 AM
For real though, there's also the fact that my mirrors are fairing mounted, so the geometry is a bit different. IIRC, you have no fairings, so your mirrors have to be either bar-end or handlebar mounted, neither of which would experience this issue to the same degree.


Yes that's got to be it. Mine are mounted in the handlebar perch on the brake and clutch lever mounts, being an 'e'. I'm sure the wind is much different. OTOH my mirrors do vibrate so much that they are all but useless, which I only noticed after finding the bar-end mirrors on the Triumph to actually show me what's behind me, rather than just showing me that there is *something* behind me.

qcbaker

Quote from: mr72 on November 01, 2018, 09:42:18 AM
... the bar-end mirrors on the Triumph to actually show me what's behind me, rather than just showing me that there is *something* behind me.

Must be nice lol.

My mirrors also vibrate like crazy at speed, but at that point, really all I care about is whether or not something is there, not what exactly that something is. So they get the job done. If I could reduce the vibration, I would, but I have yet to find a cure other than not revving the engine as high. My fun is more important than mirror clarity lol.

mr72

I agree, I never really thought of the mirrors vibrating as a big problem. I think it's due to the length of the "stem" on the mirror, and the flexibility of said stem, allows the mirrors to wobble like a pendulum on the end. The bar end mirrors, in this case they are these real vintage-type "Napoleon" mirrors that are cast zinc alloy of some kind, chrome plated, and they have only a very short "stem" which is also cast and much more rigid than the ones on the ordinary mirrors, and they are heavy. So they have the effect of reducing vibration in the bar by adding a lot of mass right on the end.

The other big advantage of the bar end mirrors is that I can see something besides just my arms. I bought a second set just to rob the rubber hose like part to make an expansion nut for my Napoleons on the Triumph but I think I am going to put the extra set on the GS, not for vibration issues as much as because you can see past your arms. I'm not at all into that hipster "cafe racer" look but I'll take functionality every time. Plus my GS mirrors are rusty :) Look here, I'm planning a little work on my GS! Mount bar end mirrors, and while I'm at it I will probably do a good job of cleaning it up and I might remove the handlebar riser and reroute some cables. And shim the side stand so it doesn't lean over so far. Oh yeah and go ride! I really miss that top box! I kind of miss that beautiful sound the GS makes above 6K rpm. Hey, I have two bikes, might as well ride them both!

qcbaker

Quote from: mr72 on November 02, 2018, 06:16:48 AM
I agree, I never really thought of the mirrors vibrating as a big problem. I think it's due to the length of the "stem" on the mirror, and the flexibility of said stem, allows the mirrors to wobble like a pendulum on the end. The bar end mirrors, in this case they are these real vintage-type "Napoleon" mirrors that are cast zinc alloy of some kind, chrome plated, and they have only a very short "stem" which is also cast and much more rigid than the ones on the ordinary mirrors, and they are heavy. So they have the effect of reducing vibration in the bar by adding a lot of mass right on the end.

I think you're probably right about the stem being the cause. The mirrors I have are shorter than stock, and the ones before that were even shorter. I don't really remember having blurriness of my "original" mirrors, but the ones I have now do have it. But being that stock have an even longer stem, I can't imagine how blurry stock mirrors are. But, improved stability aside, the major downside of shorter mirror stalks is that they make it more difficult to see directly behind you. Which brings me to:

Quote
The other big advantage of the bar end mirrors is that I can see something besides just my arms. I bought a second set just to rob the rubber hose like part to make an expansion nut for my Napoleons on the Triumph but I think I am going to put the extra set on the GS, not for vibration issues as much as because you can see past your arms. I'm not at all into that hipster "cafe racer" look but I'll take functionality every time.

Yeah, bar-end mirrors have much better visibility because they are in a position where your body isn't really in the way. But, I find that having to look downward at the bar-end to see behind me is something I don't like. But, then again, my handlebars are a bit lower than stock (superbike bars, angled downward a bit to more approximate a clip-on style feel), so that probably has something to do with it.

Quote
Plus my GS mirrors are rusty :) Look here, I'm planning a little work on my GS! Mount bar end mirrors, and while I'm at it I will probably do a good job of cleaning it up and I might remove the handlebar riser and reroute some cables. And shim the side stand so it doesn't lean over so far. Oh yeah and go ride! I really miss that top box! I kind of miss that beautiful sound the GS makes above 6K rpm. Hey, I have two bikes, might as well ride them both!


user11235813

New hoops. Street Pilot radial. the BT45's were good for a while but they went dodgy once they had some wear on them. I was getting a howling sound from the front wheel. All gone now I much prefer no centre line in the front tyre. Also the tank slappers have stopped. Rock solid now I can give the handle bars a mighty thwack and nada, like hitting a wall, doesn't move. Also a new chain and sprockets.

These Michelins really like to stay in a straight line but then once they start to turn they turn in smooth and fairly quick. It's taken me a few days to get used to them but I'm liking them a lot. Plenty of tread on the back too 7mm.

Watcher

Michelin makes good tires.  Unless I have some major negative experience down the road I'll be going straight to Bibendum for all of my tire needs.


Got a new battery for the Duc.  In the spirit of "go big or go home," I got a Shorai lithium.

The battery "box" I have is more of a tray, so I need to find a better way to secure the battery as opposed to the stack of padding and bungee I did to make the much smaller Shorai fit, but in the mean time it's secure enough.
Great power.  Just need to be conscious of the fact I need to maintain the battery every so often now.
"The point of a journey is not to arrive..."

-Neil Peart

user11235813

forgot; new RK x ring chain and sprockets.

qcbaker

Started the bike up and rode to work for the first time since November... Took a few tries but it started up fine. Keeping my bike in a garage has really made it much easier to start after sitting a while in the winter.

max

After not riding my bike for a 2 weeks during the UK's brief snow spell, my battery decided to give up. Tried bump starting it but still couldn't get it going.

Ordered a new Motobatt MB10U on eBay that arrived the next day. Fitted it today and the bike started straight up!

The old battery that I took out (fitted by the previous owner) was a YTX9-BS. This was much smaller than the new one which had me worried at first. After researching it, the old one also looks underpowered compared to stock, and way underpowered compared to the new Motobatt (8 Ah vs 14.5 Ah). In the year and a half I've had the bike, I'm surprised the battery never caused any other issues.

Falken Hawke

A short while ago I noticed brake fluid leaking through the front master reservoir sight glass.  I decided I may as well upgrade the master at this point since I was planning on it anyway.

I originally planned on a "standard" Brembo 15mm but found the 15RCS wasn't much more.

At this point I ended up going nuts, reasoning that sticking the Brembo onto the stock caliper is kind of a waste so I may as well do everything considering my original plan was starting at the caliper and piecing the system over time.

I ordered a line from Galfer, a stock 2006 CBR600F4i Front Right Caliper, an adapter set from SV Racing Parts for a SV650 to use Nissin front calipers, and EBC HH pads.  The rotor has been there since birth and is well within limits so I think I'll leave it.

Additional parts required are a reservoir setup of some kind.  Brembo has a kit available if one does not want to piece things together.  If the bike is naked, Brembo has a clamp that a mirror can mount to.  The GS500E uses M10x1.5.  Also note the Brembo master uses a M10x1.0 banjo bolt and the Nissin caliper uses a M10x1.25 banjo bolt.  I'm not sure what is on the stock setup as I did not disassemble it but the Galfer line came with M10x1.0 banjos bolts.  The 15RCS I bought came with a brake light switch as well as a banjo bolt and crush washers.  I have seen suppliers note these are not included with the master they sold so check about these items from the supplier you chose.

While I have a compressor operated vacuum pump, I opted not to set it up but I still would recommend using some kind of pump to fill a completely dry system.  Otherwise, plan on taking a while.

After installation I did a few hard stops and decided to put the master at 18.  For me, I like being able to slow the bike while barely touching the lever and found modulation easy enough for me to transition from a small drag to hard stopping and back without any surprises.  While I didn't have any real issues with the stock brakes, I didn't like the effort it took to use them compared to my supermoto.  Yes, two different animals but their brakes are similar, using a single rotor.  Also, changing pads are easier with fixed calipers :D
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Conclusion: Shyamalan hates his kids.
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qcbaker

#5091
My bike fell over in the driveway this morning... :oops: :oops: :oops:

I pulled it out into the driveway, started it up, then walked away to get my gear. While I was away from it, the vibrations from it sitting there with the choke on caused the bike to slide down my driveway and it fell over when the pavement became too uneven. Handlebar and right hand control got misaligned, scratched the hell out of my right bar end, and added to the small scratches on the crankcase and muffler. Thankfully the fairings, turn signals, and mirrors were all fine. Didn't have enough time to re-align everything and make it to work on time, so I just put it away and drove in.

Over lunch, I went home and loosened the handlebar clamps, realigned the bar, slid the right hand control back into its proper spot, tightened everything up, and then made sure it wasn't leaking fuel or oil or anything. Started it up just to make sure it still ran, didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. So, seems like I got lucky in that the only permanent damage is a couple scratches. The bike already had a ton of scratches from when I crashed it a couple years ago, so I'm not really that concerned about it.

mr72

qc sounds like a great time for a naked conversion.

qcbaker

Honestly, if the fairings had cracked, that would be a strong possibility. But, I'm VERY glad I fixed the handbar/control alignment stuff yesterday because when I got home form work, I went to swap my summer wheels/tires onto my car and in the process of removing my winter wheels I broke one of my wheel studs. I'm 90% sure the bolt was cross threaded so when I pushed hard on it expecting to break it free, the lug nut just twisted off with the end of the stud still inside.

First thing in the morning, drop my bike. First thing when I get home, break my car. Hell of a day.

jackinacabin

Hope your car problem can be solved easily .... Today I put an 18tooth sprocket on the gs and its changed the bike , much more relaxing , not revving its self silly at 80mph and just nicer to ride . So much of a difference I may well keep the bike , I was thinking of upgrading as it felt straigned at higher speeds , now it feels fine and less gearbox stirring which with my disability helps a lot ... All hail the gs ... Known as Mavis the Motorcycle....

mr72

Quote from: qcbaker on March 28, 2019, 08:54:06 AM
Honestly, the lug nut just twisted off with the end of the stud still inside

Sux man. I had a car once that dis this when I went to rotate the tires. All four frikin wheels!

Probably not a a difficult or expensive fix as long as you have or can rent the right tools to remove the stud.

qcbaker

I took the car the next morning to the shop that had installed my winter tires. Since they were the last people to touch my wheels, they replaced the stud at no charge. I got the car back later the same day. So, all things considered it was a relatively minor inconvenience.

tobyd

Replaced the head bearings. Took 3 or 4 hours going at it slow. Getting the old races out and the new lower bearing on the stem was most of the work.

destroyed a set of pin punches doing this, I don't think they were the right tool for the job. They did ok on the top race but the lower one needed some grinder action to get enough of the punch head onto the lip of the race. I mig welded a few small beads onto the lower to help.

used the inside of the old lower bearing (with a slot cut using an angle grinder so it wouldn't bind) and a length of steel pipe to knock the new bearing onto the stem, this was pretty hard going.

knocking in the races was quite easy, just gently-gently with a copper faced hammer until the hit-noise changes not. Greased everything up, torqued the adjuster down to 45nm then backed off maybe 50 degrees and bolted everything back together.

I had a spare stem which I knocked the old lower bearing off of and cleaned up last week - this isn't a fun job, in the end I used a brick bolster / cold chisel type thing and a lump hammer to work the two edges...

Big cost here was the socket for adjuster bolt, which was more than the bearings... probably has good residual value though.

Overall not a bad job - not one i'd want to do regularly. Replaced as I'd noticed the lower race had some markings where the bearing looked a bit jammed up. That and the adjuster had been installed upside down and was loose enough to spin with one finger and had been that way for at least a year...

Hopefully it'll be good for its MOT next week!

mrdrprof

Put a new chain and new sprockets on it! I swapped out the front for a 14 tooth and it definitely pulls harder  :)

tobyd

re-adjusted the head-bearing-adjuster. Again and again and again....

Then figured out how to do it right and its ok now. Its really hard to gauge how much extra load the stem bolt will apply...

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