News:

Protect your dainty digits. Get a good pair of riding gloves cheap Right Here

Main Menu

Carburetors and their various parts,internal and external with pics.STICKY PLZ

Started by ben2go, June 08, 2011, 03:11:24 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

NorwayGT1

can someone tell me if the diaphragm is the same in the pictures above as the latter models????? .. they look the same to me but it might be jsut a little smaller you know........
reason im asking is because i have an 05 and just ordered new ones but they were made for the latter models, at least that's what the seller said... (ebay)

Also how do you adjust the floats exactly???? im so lost when it comes to that part! if anyone could help i would greatly appreciate it! also ill start a thread with a break down of the newer model carbs on here so it will be less confusing to newer members, i went through hell looking for info on my bike when i got it about a week ago due to the fact that the carbs do look different on my bike then all the post i have seen on here. but thanks to GStwin and their amazing members i was able to piece together enough info to make seance of it all lol, and now i can take this carb appart with no problems and also trouble shoot my bike like a pro!

Thank you and a thousand times thank you for insanely detail oriented write ups and in general great ppl in this forum!

(last thing can someone point me in the direction of a few good write ups on how to change out your chain on the gs) thanks!

NorwayGT1

i got pics for the newer models finally.. lol 02-09 GS500F

















Feel free to edit them and name all the parts and what not.. everything is almost the same as the pics in the beginning!
But there are a few differences!

bombshelter13

In the last picture posted, there is a flat, circular brass cap with a tiny indentation in it's middle, located in a depression directly to the right of the mixture screw.

What is this cap, and what is under it?

ben2go

Quote from: bombshelter13 on December 03, 2011, 04:00:16 PM
In the last picture posted, there is a flat, circular brass cap with a tiny indentation in it's middle, located in a depression directly to the right of the mixture screw.

What is this cap, and what is under it?

That is called a welsh plug and it blocks off unused carb circuits or ports.I do not have a clue what it would be used for with the plug removed.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

sledge

Know what a core plug is?......similar thing and dependant on where in the world you are it can have one of several names.

Its purpose is to blank off and seal internal ports and galleries that have to be made when the carb body is machined......you cant drill holes from the inside out and you cant drill a large diameter blind hole at the bottom of a small diameter blind hole   :dunno_black:

Its rare but they can leak and when they do it allows small amounts of air to be drawn in or bleed out where its not wanted, this in turn can cause all sorts of difficult to trace poor running problems. The tip is to paint clear nail varnish over the plugs which will form an airtight seal.  :thumb:

NorwayGT1

interesting... so you are saying that painting over (sealing) those screws is something everyone should do or just for the ppl that are having issues with toughs?

sledge

I have seen it done on older carbs with success. Ones that were made decades ago in the rough and ready days before manufacturing techniques and tolerances reached the standards they are at today.

If you have an older carb thats seen some action or one that you suspect may be bleeding or drawing in air past a plug it certainly wouldnt do any harm to seal it. Its not as if its a difficult or expensive thing to do.

Anoither thing to consider..........Some people assume these plugs are there just to prevent tampering with adjustment screws etc,  this is not always the case.  :thumb:

ghostrider_23

I have a question about parts and their location. I posted it in the general section titled carbs and their parts location. I could use some input please.

adidasguy

The picture of the bottom of the new carbs - the float bowls are swapped. The drain screws should be on the outside so you can get at them easily. As shown below. (Oh, someone was asking where the mixture screw was - under the brass cap on each carb.)

craigs449

Little bit of info that I found on the web while trying to find a compatible carb rebuild kit for my 01 GS 500..

Here are the different float valve part numbers from a certain parts website:


1989-2000:
13370-02D00  (replaces 13370-44B00)

2001-2002:
13370-33E80

2004-2006 (K4,K5,K6)
13370-04F00

2001 Suzuki GS 500 "Commute Killer"
2008 Husqvarna 510 SMR
2002 Honda CR 250 "Project Pain-in-the-ass"
2001 Honda XR 50

92gs500e

anyone familiar with two hose nipples on the bottom of carbs near the bowls and what should be on those nipples right now i have a hose connecting the two. and where does the tank vent water drain rout too. one more thing is where does the top tee on the crabs rout to because i have no idea

ben2go

The nipples on the bottom of the carbs are the drains.Nothing goes on them.

The tank cap recess drain has a hose that feeds down behind the engine below and behind the left peg bracket.

The top T on the carbs is the vent.It needs a hose routed up and over the carbs and comes out in the same place as the tank cap recess drain.

What ever you do,do not run any lines from the tank, or carbs, to the right side of the bike where the hot exhaust runs.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

jiggamanlu

can some one help me or  lead me in the right direction i cleaned my jets and carbs yesterday now she doesnt stay on ??? i checked all hoses and cable everything looks good i have the fuel  line coming from pet chicken number to bottom of carb and the air line on top i did have a issue with the choke not closing but i took care of that it was the spring .. txs in advance


w_amin1

hello guys do while cleaning out my carbs the 0 rings on the perimeter of float bowls were damaged i was wondering can i purchase neww from a hardware store or online any on know a good solution.
p.s the o rings still hold there round shape the width of the rings isn't consistent i.e skinny and fat

ben2go

Quote from: w_amin1 on May 30, 2012, 02:16:24 AM
hello guys do while cleaning out my carbs the 0 rings on the perimeter of float bowls were damaged i was wondering can i purchase neww from a hardware store or online any on know a good solution.
p.s the o rings still hold there round shape the width of the rings isn't consistent i.e skinny and fat



These need to be replaced with the specific part.O rings can be had from the hardware store, just make sure they are compatible with gas and ethanol.Viton are what the factory uses from my understanding.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

red rider

Hi im new to the GS world of street biking or any street biking for that matter, but I currently came uppon a 1999 Gs500e, with about 26k for miles.... I bought the bike for $150 and im in the process of getting it running..It sat on the side of the the orginal owners house for close to 5 years..My question is since Im completly taking the carbs apart and in the process of puting new seals an replacing gummed up or nogood parts... if the oring on the float needle seat doesn't hold the seat in tighly I will have problems with carb flooding or the motor runing?....Thanks for any answers :)

ben2go

Quote from: red rider on July 02, 2012, 01:22:24 PM
Hi im new to the GS world of street biking or any street biking for that matter, but I currently came uppon a 1999 Gs500e, with about 26k for miles.... I bought the bike for $150 and im in the process of getting it running..It sat on the side of the the orginal owners house for close to 5 years..My question is since Im completly taking the carbs apart and in the process of puting new seals an replacing gummed up or nogood parts... if the oring on the float needle seat doesn't hold the seat in tighly I will have problems with carb flooding or the motor runing?....Thanks for any answers :)

Yes the carbs will flood if the seat O rings are not sealed tightly.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

DoD#i

So, for the 89-2000 carbs, this is the best I can come up with for replacement o-rings, having measured the first two directly, and measured new replacements for the other two. The dealership is charging lots of bones for putting them one per glassine envelope and slapping a Suzuki Genuine Parts sticker on there. Viton from McMaster is the same price for 25 as for one or two of the stealership's. Viton is more dependable with today's gasoline than buna-n. Don't use "unknown hardware store rubber" - it may melt in gasoline. You need one per carb of each, or two each. Float cover gaskets you need to get from a dealer - ronayers.com seems to the best price online at present.

Sizes are Thickness, IDxOD

The pilot screw (tiniest) 1mm - 3x5mm

Top cover tiny o-rings 1mm - 4x6mm

The float seat o-ring (measuring a new SGP replacement) appears to be 1.5mm - 7.5x10.5mm

The needle valve oring (the one on the float itself) may really be an oddball, (measuring a new SGP replacement.)
Or it may be an 008 (1/16 - 3/16x5/16 inch size) Certainly very close, and possibly close enough.

A different thread claimed that the o-ring on the white slide part which Haynes says not to take out is 1-10x12mm, should be square-section, but they got away with round section. I left it in place as per Haynes.

Top cover screws are M5 x 16mm

Float bowl screws are M5 x 12mm (beware later carbs MAY use different sized screws)

Get 4 of each in a socket head cap screw (stainless is nice, but anti-sieze on steel also works) after you remove the JIS (not Phillips) head originals, whcih are soft and terrible and prone to strip out, especially if you use a Phillips driver on them. Your toolkit screwdrivers should be JIS if you have your toolkit. After they are stripped, you may be able to cut a slot and use a flathead, or grab the head with vise-grips and remove them. You don't want to use the originals again.
1990 GS500EL - with moderately-ugly paintjob.
1982 XJ650LJ -  off the road for slow repairs
AGATT - All Gear All The Time
"Ride a motorcycle.  Save Gas, Oil, Rubber, Steel, Aluminum, Parking Spaces, The Environment, and Money.  Plus, you get to wear all the leather you want!"
(from DoD#296)

mustangGT90210

This thread is seriously helpful in getting my bike tuned up right. The thing I'm wondering because I can't see it in the picture is about the head on the mixture screws. Are they flat head, phillips, hex? I'm trying to see if I can turn them without taking the carb off yet again
'93 GS - Clubmans - '04 tank/seat - Custom "slip" on - Airtech fender - Drag Specialties speedometer - GSXR drag bike grips - GSXR pegs - Lunchbox - Re-jet - Sold!

-94 GSX-R 750 - Sold

-02 SV650 - Crashed, sold for parts

-96 Bandit 600 - Sold

-93 Intruder 800 - bobbed out basket case,new project

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk