Rode in NY- Hudson Valley area this weekend. Bike ran like a champ. Hit some awesome roads too.
But to the question... I have been noting a bit of oil on the cylinder head. Enough so the dirt sticks to it. When I got home and took the bike out of the truck (we trailered the bikes to NY) I noticed a droplet of oil. Nice clean oil. So I figure its time to replace that gasket.
It looks easy enough to do, are looks deceiving? Also, can I still ride it if its not bad? I usually ride my bike to work (40 miles or so)... I am planning on taking the bus.. but the idea of not riding is... well sad. ;)
I am going to stop tomorrow night at the local dealer to get the two gaskets and those O-rings for the bolt holes. And the sealent- can't forget that!
Anyhoo--- just curious if this is a job I can do by myself... and if you all have any kind of tips. Don't want to drop anything inside- dirt etc.
I am also going to finaly jet the carbs while everything is apart. :mrgreen:
Thanks!
Also.... I and gettting to the point where I need to replace my muffler and pipes. What are my options? Anyone got after market full mufflers that are cool?
:cheers:
If you are talking about changing the cylinder head gasket, the one between the top of the piston and the valves.
Depending on how many miles are on the bike/engine. I would recommend possiblity of doing a valve job and replacing the piston rings at the same time. Along with a valve adjustment, carb synch.
I don't consider this an easy do it yourselfer job. The engine has got to come out of the frame to get the cylinder head off, unless you are planning on replacing all the mounting studs (that is the only way I see the head coming off inside the frame). I just had the head off of my '89 and I could not get it out without removing the engine from the frame. I am not sure if later years are different, but I imagine they are the same.
A complete engine overhaul may be a viable option aswell.
89 and 90 the frame removaeble section was in the middle of the 2 down tubes... maiing it much harder to take the head off when motoe is in the frame. But a later model comes off just fine.
Cool.
Srinath.
Its a 91, only 10K miles. Talking about the Cylinder Head Cover Gasket. The other gasket I would change is the breather cover.
Like I said - if its straight forward I will do it, otherwise I will make a shop visit. It seems pretty straight forward from what I read in the manual. They say the cylinder cover comes off without removing the engine (well they do not mention removing the engine at all). They do say the breather cover must be removed to get the cyl. cover off in order to remove the cover.
Thanks again!
:mrgreen:
Yeah, that gasket isn't all that difficult. But, while you are in there you really need to check the valve clearances and tune her up a bit. Just my opinion. I wouldn't go in there just changing the gasket. But then again everyone is different. Being a mechanic, I tend to be on the anal side with my machines (if you hadn't already noticed!).
Getting the gas tank off can be quite a chore on these GSs'. I cannot get a good idea of your mechanical skills from reading your posts.
If I were to test your mechinical knowledge and aptitude here on this forum I would ask you: What is the worst breakdown you have experienced and repaired on the side of the road in your life time?... or have you ever changed a leaky freeze plug on your own car?...
I am just kidding dude... I don't mean to crap on your parade... hope you get that gasket changed w/o problem.
I think "going in" just to change the gasket(s) is a
fine idea.
1) You save ... $50+? ... in labor costs, and you don't lose your bike for who-knows-how-long.
2) There's nothing to break (except possibly the old gaskets).
3) You realize that this mechanic'ing stuff is largely a matter of getting to the bad part, pulling it out, and putting a new one in. (No flames please - I know there can be a LOT more to it than that, like knowing WHICH part to go after, etc.)
4) You get a good idea of what a valve clearance check or a carb synch or rejet will involve when the time comes. Before long, pulling the gas tank and detaching the choke and/or throttle cable gets to be "old hat"; not a deterrent at all. (TIP: If you don't have a gas can to drain the tank into, the closer you can get to REServe before you start the better. A full tank weighs around 35 lbs!)[/list:u]For a list of the tools you may need, see
my post (http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=55689#55689) in the related thread how hard is it???...... (http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6678)
Another TIP: You don't need to entirely remove the side plastics. The main reason that you mess with them at all is so you can get to the fuel tank mounting bolts. After "popping" the seat, just:
* Remove the 10mm bolt on either side of the seat latch
* Gently pull each plastic away from the frame at the 3 grommetted mount points
* Let the plastics angle downward enough to expose the tank mounting bolts.[/list:u]That way you won't have to find a place to put the plastics, and you won't lose the screws that attach the center piece in the back.